Exploring the Wonders of Iceland's Snaefellsnes Peninsula

Unexpected Treasures of Snaefellsnes

Today was a day of delightful surprises and immersion into the unique culture and landscapes of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. Hans and I set out with a flexible itinerary, ready to embrace whatever hidden gems this region had to offer. From tasting mineral-rich waters to exploring artistic expressions and delving into local history, it was a day that truly captured the essence of Iceland in miniature.

Our morning started with a hearty breakfast at Sjávarpakkhúsið in Ólafsvík. It was a cozy place, and I enjoyed a traditional Icelandic breakfast with skyr and rye bread. Hans opted for something a bit heartier with smoked salmon. Fuelled up, we were ready for our first stop: the Vatnasafn, or Library of Water, in Stykkishólmur.


Discover the Library of Water in Stykkishólmur, a modern art museum that harmoniously merges contemporary art with Iceland's breathtaking landscapes.
The drive to Stykkishólmur was beautiful. The landscape was a mix of lava fields and green meadows, typical of Snaefellsnes. We even spotted a few Icelandic horses grazing peacefully near the road. I had forgotten to pack sunscreen, so I made a mental note to buy some later.

Vatnasafn: A Meditation on Water and Weather

Vatnasafn, the Library of Water, was an experience that touched both Hans and me deeply. Housed in a former library, the space is now home to an installation by American artist Roni Horn. The main exhibit consists of 24 glass columns, each filled with water collected from different glaciers around Iceland. As we walked among them, the light refracted through the water, casting ethereal patterns on the floor. It was a very calming and contemplative space.

The floor itself is inscribed with Icelandic and English words related to weather. It was interesting to see how integral the weather is to the Icelandic language and culture. I was particularly moved by the knowledge that some of the glaciers from which the water was collected have since receded significantly, or even disappeared entirely. It served as a stark reminder of the impact of climate change.

The essence of Iceland lies not just in its landscapes, but in its intimate connection with the elements.

Adjacent to the main hall, we found a smaller room where we listened to recordings of locals discussing the weather. It was fascinating to hear their personal stories and how the weather influenced their daily lives. It reinforced the idea that in Iceland, the weather is not just a topic of conversation; it’s a defining force.

Ölkelduvatn Mineral Spring: A Taste of Iceland's Depths

Experience the natural beauty and historical significance of Ölkelduvatn Mineral Spring, a hidden gem in the heart of Iceland's landscapes.
Our next stop was Ölkelduvatn Mineral Spring. This required a bit of a detour, but it was well worth it. The spring is located on a farm, and it’s known for its naturally carbonated mineral water. As we drove, the landscape opened up, revealing rolling hills and distant views of the ocean. It felt like we were discovering a secret part of Iceland.

When we arrived, we found a simple setup: a pump and a donation box. We dropped in 200 krónur, as suggested, and took turns pumping the water into our reusable bottles. The water had a distinct, slightly metallic taste, a testament to the minerals it contains. It was definitely different from any water I’ve ever tasted!

According to the information posted near the spring, Ölkelduvatn first sprung in 1754 and the water is high in calcium, sodium, magnesium, sulfate, chloride, and bicarbonate. It’s said to be beneficial for various health conditions. Whether that’s true or not, it was a unique and refreshing experience. We sat there for a while, enjoying the peaceful surroundings and the unusual taste of the water.

Lunch at Hótel Snaefellsnes: A Culinary Pause

Experience unparalleled comfort at Hótel Snaefellsnes while exploring the breathtaking beauty of Iceland’s Snæfellsnes Peninsula.
By now, we were both quite hungry, so we decided to have lunch at Hótel Snaefellsnes. We had a delightful meal in their charming restaurant, known as Vegamót, which means crossroads in Icelandic. I opted for the fish of the day, which was perfectly cooked cod with roasted vegetables. Hans chose a hearty lamb stew. The hotel is known for using fresh, seasonal ingredients from local farmers, and you could definitely taste the difference.

While we ate, we chatted with some of the locals who were there for coffee. They were very friendly and shared some tips about other places to visit on the peninsula. It’s these kinds of interactions that make traveling so rewarding.

Norwegian House: A Step Back in Time

Explore Iceland's maritime history at the Norwegian House in Stykkishólmur, a captivating museum showcasing the region's rich cultural heritage.
After lunch, we headed to Stykkishólmur to explore the Norwegian House. This historic building, constructed in 1832 from timber shipped from Norway, serves as the regional museum for the Snaefellsnes area. It was fascinating to wander through the rooms, which have been partially restored to their original style. The house once belonged to Árni Ó. Thorlacius and Anna M. Steenback, and it provided a glimpse into the lives of a prominent family in the 19th century.

The first level featured art exhibits and a gift shop, while the upper floor offered a glimpse into the past with furnished rooms showcasing period furniture and artifacts. The attic was a treasure trove of antiques and historical items. I particularly enjoyed seeing the old photographs and learning about the history of Stykkishólmur.

It was interesting to learn that tickets for the Library of Water are sold at the Norwegian House. The Norwegian House is considered a bridge between Norway, the United States, and the wider world. I was reminded a bit of home, since I grew up in Denmark, which shares a lot of history with Norway.

Prjónaklúbburinn: A Knitter's Haven

Experience the joy of knitting at Prjónaklúbburinn, a charming knit shop in Stykkishólmur, where creativity meets Icelandic culture.
Before leaving Stykkishólmur, I wanted to visit Prjónaklúbburinn, a local knit shop that I had read about. As someone who enjoys knitting, I was curious to see what kind of yarns and handmade goods they offered. The shop was a cozy and inviting space filled with colorful yarns and finished knitwear. I was immediately drawn to a display of locally sourced wool in beautiful natural shades.

I ended up buying a skein of soft, Icelandic wool to make a scarf. The shop owner was incredibly helpful and gave me some tips on traditional Icelandic knitting patterns. Hans, ever patient, browsed through some books while I indulged in my knitting passion. It was a lovely way to end our visit to Stykkishólmur.

Dinner at Bjargarsteinn Mathús: A Culinary Finale

Discover Bjargarsteinn Mathús: A delightful dining experience showcasing local flavors amidst breathtaking views in Grundarfjörður, Iceland.
For dinner, we drove to Grundarfjörður to dine at Bjargarsteinn Mathús, a restaurant known for its contemporary take on local culinary traditions. The restaurant is housed in an old building that was relocated to Grundarfjörður and offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains and coastline. The cozy atmosphere and warm hospitality made us feel right at home.

We started with a delicious appetizer of smoked mussels, followed by the catch of the day, which was arctic char. The fish was incredibly fresh and flavorful, and the presentation was beautiful. Hans opted for a lamb dish, which he declared was one of the best he had ever tasted. For dessert, we shared a skyr mousse with berries, a perfect ending to a wonderful meal.

Bjargarsteinn Mathús is committed to using locally sourced ingredients, and it shows in the quality of their dishes. The staff was knowledgeable and passionate about the food, and they were happy to share the stories behind each dish. It was a truly memorable dining experience.

Reflections on the Day

As we drove back to our accommodation, we reflected on the day’s adventures. From the thought-provoking art at the Library of Water to the unique taste of the mineral spring and the delicious food at Bjargarsteinn Mathús, it was a day filled with unexpected treasures.

The Snaefellsnes Peninsula continues to surprise and delight us. Tomorrow, we plan to explore Höskuldargerði, Lysafoss, and a mysterious Bootswrack. I’m excited to see what other hidden gems this region has in store for us. And I’ll definitely remember to pack sunscreen!