Exploring the Enchanted Forests of Yakushima: A Solo Journey

Sacred Spaces and Emerald Dreams

Today was a day of quiet contemplation and verdant exploration. I sought to connect with the spiritual heart of Yakushima and lose myself in the island's famed emerald landscapes. It was a journey that resonated deeply within me, reminding me of the simple joys and profound beauty that exist when we slow down and truly observe.

My morning began with a hearty breakfast at Smiley, a cozy little spot near Anbo Port. I opted for their homemade muffin and a strong coffee, the perfect fuel for the day ahead. The cafe's warm atmosphere and friendly staff made it a delightful start to my adventures.


Discover the cozy Smiley Café in Yakushima – where exceptional coffee meets delicious cakes and sandwiches in a warm atmosphere.

Yaku-jinja: A Shrine by the Sea

After breakfast, I headed towards Yaku-jinja, also known as Yaku Shrine, a place I'd read about as being the island's ancient guardian. The shrine is located near the mouth of the Miyauragawa River, and I was keen to experience its spiritual ambiance firsthand. As I approached, the air felt different, charged with a sense of reverence and history.


Discover the tranquility and spiritual heritage of Yaku-jinja Shrine, a serene escape in the heart of Yakushima's lush landscapes.

The shrine itself was simple yet elegant, nestled amidst the lush greenery that defines Yakushima. The open-mouthed and closed-mouthed stone guardian statues, dating back to the mid-nineteenth century, stood as silent sentinels, their weathered faces telling tales of centuries past. I learned that Yaku-jinja is the southernmost shrine listed in the Engi Shiki, a tenth-century Japanese code of law, adding to its historical significance.

I took my time wandering the grounds, absorbing the tranquility and offering a small prayer for continued safe travels. It's fascinating to think about the blend of mountain and sea worship that defines Yakushima's spiritual culture. The inner shrine, located at the summit of Mt. Miyanoura, further emphasizes this connection, a testament to the islanders' deep respect for nature.

In the heart of Yakushima, the ancient cedars whisper secrets of resilience, and the mossy forests hum with the quiet energy of life.

Kokemusu Forest: Entering a Ghibli Dream

Leaving Yaku-jinja, I set my sights on the Kokemusu Forest, a place that has captured my imagination since I first learned about Yakushima. Known as the 'Moss Forest' in English, it's located within Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine and is said to have been a key inspiration for Studio Ghibli's *Princess Mononoke*. As a long-time fan of Ghibli's work, I was eager to see if the forest lived up to its enchanting reputation.


Explore the ancient beauty of Kokemusu Forest in Yakushima, a hiker's paradise filled with towering cedars and breathtaking landscapes.

The hike to Kokemusu Forest was nothing short of magical. The Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine itself is a wonderland of lush greenery, with ferns and mosses blanketing every surface. The air was thick with moisture, and the sound of running water filled the forest. It felt like stepping into another world, a realm where nature reigned supreme.

As I ventured deeper into the Kokemusu Forest, I understood why it had inspired Miyazaki Hayao and his team. The ancient cedar trees, some over a thousand years old, stood tall and proud, their gnarled branches reaching towards the sky. But it was the moss that truly transformed the landscape. Every rock, every tree trunk, every inch of ground was covered in a thick carpet of vibrant green moss. It was as if the forest was alive, breathing with a soft, emerald glow.

I spent hours wandering through the forest, completely losing track of time. The trails were well-maintained, but I couldn't help but feel a sense of adventure with every step. The interplay of light and shadow created an ethereal atmosphere, and I felt a deep connection to the natural world. It was a truly immersive experience, one that reminded me of the power and beauty of unspoiled nature.

Lunch at Yakushima Furusato Market Island Megumi Kan

By the time I emerged from the Kokemusu Forest, I was famished. I decided to have lunch at Yakushima Furusato Market Island Megumi Kan, a local market known for its fresh seafood and traditional dishes. I had heard about their Deep-Fried Flying Fish Combo, and I was eager to give it a try. The market was bustling with activity, locals and tourists alike browsing the various stalls. The aroma of grilled fish and simmering broths filled the air, making my stomach rumble with anticipation.


Discover Yakushima's culinary treasures and unique souvenirs at Furusato Market Island Megumi Kan - where local flavors meet island charm.

I found a seat at one of the small tables and ordered the flying fish combo. When it arrived, I was impressed by the size of the fish. It was noticeably larger than any I'd seen before. The wings were delightfully crunchy, perfectly salty, and surprisingly tasty. Even the miso soup that came with the meal featured fish, adding an extra layer of flavor to the combo. It was a delicious and satisfying meal, the perfect way to refuel after a long day of hiking.

Evening Reflections and RainTree Revelations

As evening approached, I decided to unwind at Cafe＆Bar RainTree カフェバー·レインツリー, a local bar known for its relaxed atmosphere and karaoke nights. I'm not usually one for karaoke, but I was intrigued by the bar's reputation as a local hangout. Plus, I was hoping to meet some fellow travelers and exchange stories.


Experience the vibrant blend of karaoke and cafe culture at Cafe＆Bar RainTree in beautiful Yakushima, Japan.

The bar was cozy and inviting, with a mix of locals and tourists chatting and laughing. I ordered a local beer and struck up a conversation with a couple from Tokyo who were also exploring Yakushima. We shared stories of our adventures and exchanged tips on the best places to visit. It was a reminder of the connections that travel can forge, the way it can bring people together from different backgrounds and cultures.

As the night wore on, the karaoke machine came to life, and the bar filled with music and laughter. I even found myself belting out a few tunes, much to the amusement of my new friends. It was a fun and lighthearted end to a day of spiritual and natural exploration.

Tomorrow's Coastal Exploration

Tomorrow, I plan to explore the coastal roads of Yakushima, including the World Heritage Listed Coastal Road with Wildlife. I'm particularly excited about the prospect of seeing the island's unique wildlife, including the Yakushima macaques and deer. I'll also be stopping by Yakushima Experience, to learn more about the island's history and culture.

For meals, I'm looking forward to trying 'Each Meal, a Once-in-a-Lifetime Encounter' for breakfast, Yakushima Airport Restaurant for lunch, and hiyoriya for dinner. I've heard great things about hiyoriya's organic and vegetarian cuisine, and I'm eager to sample their offerings.

Before heading back to the guesthouse, I took one last look at the night sky, the stars shining brightly above the island. Today was a day of quiet contemplation and verdant exploration, a day that reminded me of the simple joys and profound beauty that exist when we slow down and truly observe. As I drift off to sleep, I'm filled with a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the magic of Yakushima.

As I reflect on today, I realize that Yakushima is more than just a destination; it's an experience that touches the soul. The sacred spaces, the emerald dreams, the quiet whispers of the ancients – they all combine to create a place that is truly special. And as I continue my journey, I know that the memories of this day will stay with me long after I've left this enchanted island. The fresh air, the lush greenery, the sense of peace – it's a reminder of what's truly important in life. Perhaps I should consider a career change and move here. I'm sure Berlin will be fine without me.