Exploring the Ancient Forests of Yakushima: A Solo Adventure

Ocean Baths and Beaming Lights

Today, on the seventh day of my Yakushima adventure, I embraced the island's contrasting charms: the soothing embrace of an oceanfront onsen and the guiding beam of a historic lighthouse. It was a day of simple pleasures, local flavors, and stunning vistas, a perfect blend of relaxation and exploration that reminded me why I embarked on this solo journey in the first place.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Smiley in Anbo. It's a cozy little cafe overlooking the harbor, and I enjoyed a set of sandwiches with a cup of their freshly brewed coffee. The cafe's warm atmosphere and friendly staff made me feel right at home, a comforting start before heading out for the day's adventures.

Fueled and ready, I set off to experience the famed Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen. This unique onsen is unlike any I’ve ever encountered. Situated right on the coast, it's only accessible during low tide. As the tide receded, small pools of naturally heated water emerged from the rocks, creating a surreal and utterly blissful bathing experience.


Experience the breathtaking beauty of Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen, a unique outdoor hot spring retreat on Yakushima Island, surrounded by nature's splendor.

The feeling of soaking in the warm water, with the waves gently lapping nearby, was incredibly invigorating. It was a mixed bath, and there was no dressing room. It was the wildest onsen location I have ever experienced. The salty air, the sound of the ocean, and the stunning view of the Pacific created a sensory symphony that washed away any lingering stress. I felt a deep connection to nature, a sense of being utterly present in the moment. As someone who appreciates the sauna back home in Estonia, this was something else entirely, a true gift from Yakushima's natural bounty.

The best view comes after the hardest climb.

After my rejuvenating onsen experience, I decided to explore the northern part of the island, heading towards the Yakushima-todai Lighthouse. The drive itself was a treat, with lush greenery on one side and the sparkling coastline on the other. I made a quick stop at Yakushima Gelato Sora-Umi, a charming gelato shop I had read about. I couldn't resist trying their local tankan orange flavor – a burst of citrusy goodness that perfectly captured the island's vibrant flavors. The gelato was delicious, and the owners were very friendly, making the stop even more enjoyable.


Experience the sweet flavors of Yakushima Gelato Sora-Umi, where artisanal gelato meets the island's breathtaking beauty and warm hospitality.

Finally, I reached the Yakushima-todai Lighthouse, a beacon of maritime safety since 1897. The lighthouse itself is a striking white structure, standing proudly against the backdrop of the azure sea. I couldn't go inside, as it's unmanned, but the panoramic views from the surrounding area were breathtaking. I could see the coastline stretching out in both directions, with the islands of Kyushu and the Tokara Islands faintly visible in the distance. It was a moment of quiet contemplation, a chance to appreciate the vastness of the ocean and the enduring power of human ingenuity.


Explore the breathtaking Yakushima-todai Lighthouse, a stunning landmark surrounded by the natural beauty of Yakushima Island, perfect for nature lovers and photography enthusiasts.

As the sun began to dip towards the horizon, I made my way to Wakadaisho in Miyanoura for lunch. This popular restaurant is known for its fresh seafood, and I was eager to sample some local specialties. I opted for a sashimi platter, a colorful array of fish that had been caught just hours before. The flavors were delicate and clean, a testament to the quality of the ingredients. The atmosphere was lively and welcoming, and I enjoyed chatting with some of the other diners.


Experience authentic sushi crafted with fresh local ingredients in the heart of Yakushima's natural beauty.

For dinner, I chose Shiosai, a Japanese restaurant also located in Miyanoura. I decided to try the mackerel sashimi, a local delicacy that had been highly recommended. The fish was incredibly fresh and flavorful, a true highlight of my culinary adventures on Yakushima. The restaurant itself was spacious and comfortable, with a relaxed ambiance that made it easy to unwind after a day of exploration.


Experience authentic Japanese tempura at Shiosai in Yakushima—where fresh ingredients meet culinary excellence.

As I reflect on today's experiences, I am struck by the simple beauty of Yakushima. It's an island that invites you to slow down, to connect with nature, and to appreciate the small moments that make life so rich. Tomorrow, I plan to venture inland again, seeking out the ancient Kigensugi Cedar and the majestic Ryujin Sugi. I'm excited to see what wonders await me in the heart of Yakushima's primeval forests. I might even treat myself to a drink at Ambar, a local bar, to celebrate another day of successful exploration. It's moments like these, embracing the local culture and natural beauty, that make traveling so rewarding. I am so glad I decided against booking a hotel and chose to stay in local guesthouses. It's much more immersive, and I feel like I am truly experiencing the island's rustic charm.

I am also grateful that I remembered to pack my lightweight rain jacket, as the weather forecast predicts rain for tomorrow. It seems Yakushima's reputation for abundant rainfall is well-deserved. But even if it rains, I know that the island's beauty will shine through, and I'll be ready to embrace whatever adventures come my way.

The fact that Yakushima was registered as Japan's first World Natural Heritage site back in 1993, along with Shirakami-Sanchi, fills me with awe and respect for this unique place. Knowing its ancient history, with traces of fishing implements dating back 17,000 years, adds another layer of depth to my experience. It's a privilege to walk on this land, to breathe its air, and to witness the enduring power of nature. I am so glad Hans encouraged me to take this solo trip. It's exactly what I needed to recharge and reconnect with myself.

As I prepare for another day of exploration, I carry with me the lessons of today: to embrace the unexpected, to find joy in simple pleasures, and to always be open to the beauty that surrounds me. Yakushima is a gift, and I intend to savor every moment of it.