Exploring the Ancient Forests of Yakushima: A Solo Adventure

Guardians of Time

Today was a day of reverence, a pilgrimage into the heart of Yakushima's ancient forests. I set out to encounter two of the island's most venerable residents: the Kigensugi and Ryujin Sugi cedars. It was a journey that transcended mere sightseeing, becoming a profound communion with nature's enduring spirit. As I reflect on the day, I am reminded of the importance of preserving these ancient forests, not just for their beauty, but for the wisdom they hold.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Yakushima Airport Restaurant. While not the most scenic of locations, it was a convenient spot to fuel up before heading into the mountains. I enjoyed a simple, traditional Japanese breakfast, which gave me the energy I needed for the day's adventures. Sipping on green tea, I planned my route, eager to immerse myself in the island's natural wonders. I double-checked my backpack, ensuring I had enough water and a few snacks to keep me going throughout the day. The air was crisp and clean, carrying the promise of a day filled with exploration and discovery. As I left the restaurant, I felt a surge of excitement, ready to embrace the challenges and rewards that lay ahead.

The journey to Kigensugi Cedar was relatively straightforward. A scenic drive up into the mountains, the roads winding and narrow, with lush greenery on either side. Kigensugi is unique, the only Yakusugi accessible by car. Situated at about 1,200 meters (3,900ft) above sea level, the unique tree stands 19.5 meters (64ft) tall and 8.1 meters (26.5ft) around, and is estimated to be 3,000 years old. This giant can be seen alongside the road.


Explore the iconic Kigensugi Cedar in Yakushima, a 1,000-year-old natural marvel surrounded by stunning hiking trails and rich biodiversity.
Standing before Kigensugi, I was struck by its imposing presence. The tree's weathered bark told tales of countless seasons, of storms weathered and sun-drenched days. It was humbling to consider the centuries this ancient cedar had stood sentinel over the island. I circled the tree slowly, taking in every detail, from its gnarled roots to its towering canopy. The air was still and quiet, save for the gentle rustling of leaves in the breeze. I closed my eyes for a moment, trying to imagine what this tree had witnessed over the past three millennia. It was a moment of profound connection, a reminder of the enduring power of nature.

The forest speaks in a language we can all understand, if only we take the time to listen.

After spending a contemplative hour with Kigensugi, I continued my journey towards Ryujin Sugi. This involved a more challenging hike, one that took me deeper into Yakushima's primeval forest. The trail was a mix of moss-covered stone paths and abandoned logging roads, a testament to the island's complex history. The path was easy to follow, but the climb was relentless, testing my stamina and resolve. Despite the physical exertion, I found myself invigorated by the stunning scenery that surrounded me. Towering trees, vibrant ferns, and crystal-clear streams created a landscape of unparalleled beauty. The air was thick with the scent of damp earth and ancient wood, a fragrance that spoke of the forest's enduring vitality. It was a world away from the bustling streets of Leipzig, a sanctuary where I could reconnect with myself and with nature.

The hike to Ryujin Sugi was more than just a physical challenge; it was a journey into the heart of Yakushima's spiritual landscape. Ryujin Sugi, or Dragon God Cedar, stands at an elevation of around 1,260 meters. The tree has a circumference of 11 meters and is estimated to be around 2,000 years old. Along with its companions, Fujin Sugi (Wind God) and Raijin Sugi (Thunder God), it rises from an area impacted by logging, symbolising resilience and rebirth.


Explore Ryujin Sugi in Yakushima, where ancient cedar trees and breathtaking landscapes await every adventurer.
Reaching Ryujin Sugi was an awe-inspiring experience. Unlike the easily accessible Kigensugi, Ryujin Sugi demanded effort and dedication to reach, making the encounter all the more rewarding. The tree exuded a palpable sense of power and serenity, its ancient branches reaching towards the sky like supplicating arms. I spent a long time simply sitting at the base of the tree, absorbing its energy and contemplating its long life. The forest around me was silent, save for the occasional birdsong and the gentle whisper of the wind. It was a place of profound peace, a sanctuary where I could escape the noise and distractions of the modern world. I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to witness such natural grandeur, a reminder of the importance of preserving these ancient forests for future generations.

As the day drew to a close, I made my way back down the mountain, my body tired but my spirit renewed. The hike had been challenging, but the rewards were immeasurable. I had encountered two of Yakushima's most ancient and revered trees, each with its own unique story to tell. I had immersed myself in the island's stunning natural beauty, breathing in the fresh air and soaking up the tranquil atmosphere. And I had reconnected with myself, finding a sense of peace and clarity amidst the chaos of modern life. I knew that this was an experience I would carry with me long after I left Yakushima, a reminder of the enduring power of nature and the importance of preserving our planet's precious resources.

Back in town, I treated myself to a well-deserved Indian dinner at Subarashi Indian Restaurant. After days of Japanese cuisine, the familiar spices and flavors were a welcome change. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, the aroma of curry filling the air. I ordered a vegetable biryani and a side of naan bread, savoring every bite. The food was delicious and comforting, the perfect way to end a long and fulfilling day. I chatted with the friendly staff, sharing stories of my adventures in Yakushima. They were warm and welcoming, making me feel like a regular customer. As I finished my meal, I felt a deep sense of satisfaction, grateful for the experiences I had had and the people I had met.


Discover authentic Indian flavors at Subarashi Indian Restaurant in Yakushima, where tradition meets local charm.
Finally, I decided to experience the local nightlife with a visit to Ambar. It was a lively spot, and I enjoyed a quiet drink before heading back to my guesthouse. The bar was buzzing with activity, locals and tourists mingling and laughing. I ordered a glass of local shochu, savoring the unique flavor. I struck up a conversation with a group of fellow travelers, sharing stories of our adventures in Yakushima. It was a fun and relaxed atmosphere, the perfect way to unwind after a long day of hiking. As I walked back to my guesthouse, I felt a sense of contentment, grateful for the experiences I had had and the connections I had made.


Experience the lively dart bar culture at Ambar in Yakushima, where fun, friendship, and refreshing drinks await every night.
Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Shitoko Gajumaru Banyan Park and the Botanic Gardens [if it doesn't rain], eager to explore more of Yakushima's natural wonders. I'm also hoping to find some unique souvenirs at Gallery KIANU, a local shop known for its handcrafted goods. As I drift off to sleep, I can't help but feel excited about the adventures that await me tomorrow. Yakushima has captured my heart, and I know that I will cherish these memories for years to come.

Before I turn in for the night, I'm contemplating having breakfast tomorrow at Aqua Cafe, lunch at Yakushima Gallery Restaurant, and dinner at Il Mare. I'm excited to try the local cuisine and experience the unique flavors of Yakushima. Each day here is a new adventure, and I'm eager to see what tomorrow brings. Good night from Yakushima!

It is days like today, that reaffirm my love for solo travel. There’s something incredibly powerful about being alone in nature, relying on your own instincts and soaking in the world without the filter of another person's perspective. I feel incredibly grateful for this journey and the lessons it continues to teach me. I am also reminded to call Hans and Kati soon.

I am also thinking of the Sankara Hotel & Spa Yakushima for my next visit.