Exploring the Ancient Forests of Yakushima: A Solo Adventure

Embracing the Forest's Wisdom

Today, I ventured deeper into the heart of Yakushima, seeking to understand the island's ancient soul. Leaving behind the familiar comforts of Leipzig, I yearned to connect with nature in a way that only a place like this could offer. The day unfolded with a promise of discovery, from the tranquil trails of Yakusugi Land to the vibrant flavors of local cuisine.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Smiley, a cozy little cafe near Anbo Port. The name itself was inviting, and the atmosphere inside was just as cheerful. I enjoyed a simple meal of coffee and toast, fueling up for the day's adventures. It reminded me of the small cafes Hans and I sometimes visit in Leipzig, though this one had a uniquely Japanese charm. The cafe was cozy and cute with wooden furniture. It overlooked the harbour of Anbo.


Discover the cozy Smiley Café in Yakushima – where exceptional coffee meets delicious cakes and sandwiches in a warm atmosphere.

After breakfast, I set off to Yakusugi Land, eager to immerse myself in the ancient cedar forest. The bus ride was scenic, offering glimpses of the island's lush landscape. As I stepped off the bus, I was immediately enveloped by the cool, damp air and the scent of cedar. The towering trees created a cathedral-like atmosphere, their gnarled branches reaching towards the sky.


Explore Yakusugi Land: a UNESCO World Heritage nature preserve in Yakushima known for its ancient cedar trees and stunning hiking trails.

I opted for the 150-minute course, a trail that promised a good balance of challenge and immersion. As I walked, I was struck by the silence, broken only by the rustling of leaves and the occasional birdsong. The trail wound its way through the forest, passing by ancient trees with names like the 'Bearded Old Man Cedar' and the 'Hahako-sugi Cedar'. I felt a sense of awe and humility in the presence of these ancient beings, some of which have stood for thousands of years.

Nature is not a place to visit. It is home.

The trails in Yakusugi Land are well-maintained, with varying levels of difficulty. The 30-minute and 50-minute courses are easy, with wooden walkways or paved paths. The longer courses, like the one I chose, are more challenging, with mountain trails that require proper footwear. I found the 150-minute course to be a good workout, with some steep sections and stairs.

Yakusugi Land is part of Yakushima National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The park encompasses a diverse landscape, from ancient cedar forests to volcanic peaks. It is home to unique wildlife, including the Yakushima macaque and the Yakushima deer. The island's unique ecosystem is influenced by the warm Kuroshio Current, which makes it particularly lush.


Explore the ancient forests and breathtaking landscapes of Yakushima National Park, a jewel of Japan's natural heritage and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

After my hike, I was ready for lunch. I headed to Shiosai, a popular restaurant in Yakushima Town. The restaurant is known for its seafood, and I decided to try the flying fish kaarage, a local specialty. The fish was fresh and flavorful, and the portion was generous. It was a delicious and satisfying meal, and I enjoyed the lively atmosphere of the restaurant.


Experience authentic Japanese tempura at Shiosai in Yakushima—where fresh ingredients meet culinary excellence.

In the late afternoon, I explored more of Yakushima National Park, taking in the stunning views of the coastline. The park offers a variety of activities, including hiking, diving, and kayaking. I considered taking a dip in one of the island's hot springs, but decided to save that for another day.

As evening approached, I sought out a place to unwind and reflect on the day. I ventured into BAR しらはま, drawn by its cozy ambiance and promise of local spirits. The bar was small and intimate, with a friendly bartender who offered me a taste of Yakushima shochu, a local distilled beverage. Sipping the shochu, I chatted with some locals, learning more about the island's culture and history.


Discover BAR しらはま in Yakushima for an authentic izakaya experience, savoring local flavors in a cozy and inviting atmosphere.

The weather today was pleasant, with clear skies and a temperature of 23°C. However, Yakushima is known for its rain, and it's always a good idea to be prepared for all conditions. The island receives a significant amount of rainfall each year, especially in June.

As I write this, I'm thinking about my plans for tomorrow. I intend to visit Ohko Waterfall and Senpiro Falls, two of the island's most impressive waterfalls. I'm also hoping to do some souvenir shopping at YAKUSHIMA BLESS, a local shop. Perhaps I'll find a Yakusugi cedar woodcraft to remind me of my time in this magical place. I also need to buy some insect repellent, as I forgot to pack it.

Before concluding, I want to share a few thoughts about sustainable travel. Yakushima is a precious natural resource, and it's important to travel responsibly. This means respecting the environment, supporting local businesses, and being mindful of the impact of tourism. I encourage all travelers to Yakushima to do their part to preserve this beautiful island for future generations.

Reflecting on my day, I realize that Yakushima is more than just a beautiful island. It's a place of ancient forests, unique wildlife, and warm, welcoming people. It's a place where you can connect with nature and discover a sense of peace and tranquility. It’s a place where the whispers of ancient cedars can guide you on a journey of self-discovery.

The experience reminded me of a quote by the Estonian poet, Marie Under: “*The most beautiful things are those that madness prompts and reason writes*.” Perhaps my journey to Yakushima was a bit of both, a mad impulse to escape the ordinary, grounded by a desire to record and understand its beauty.

And as the day ends, I feel grateful for the chance to experience the magic of Yakushima. It's a journey that I will cherish for years to come.

Tomorrow, I look forward to exploring more of Yakushima's natural wonders. I plan to visit Ohko Waterfall and Senpiro Falls, and perhaps find some unique souvenirs at YAKUSHIMA BLESS. Until then, I bid you goodnight from this enchanting island.