Exploring the Ancient Forests of Yakushima: A Solo Adventure

A Pilgrimage to the Heart of Yakushima's Ancient Forests

Today, I embarked on a journey deep into the heart of Yakushima, a quest to witness the ancient sentinels that have stood for millennia. It was a day of physical challenge and spiritual awakening, a humbling reminder of the enduring power of nature. Leaving behind the familiar comforts of Leipzig feels like a distant memory as I embrace the raw beauty of this island.

The day began with an early start at Aqua Cafe, a cozy spot where I fueled up with a hearty breakfast before heading out. The weather forecast predicted rain, typical for Yakushima in June, so I donned my trusty lightweight rain jacket and laced up my hiking boots, feeling a surge of anticipation for the adventure ahead.


Discover Aqua Cafe in Yakushima - where exquisite local cuisine meets breathtaking nature in a cozy dining experience.

The bus ride to the Arakawa Trailhead was an experience in itself, winding through lush landscapes that hinted at the wonders to come. Arriving at the trailhead, I joined a small group of fellow hikers, all eager to pay homage to the Jōmon Sugi, the island's most revered tree.

Discover the ancient beauty of Jōmon Sugi, Japan's oldest cedar tree, nestled in the lush landscapes of Yakushima's UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The initial part of the trail followed an old mining railway track, a relatively flat and easy path that allowed me to find my rhythm. The air was thick with humidity, and the scent of damp earth and cedar filled my lungs. Sunlight filtered through the dense canopy, creating an ethereal glow that illuminated the path ahead. It reminded me of hiking in the Harz Mountains, but with a distinctly Japanese twist.

As I walked, I couldn't help but reflect on how much I miss Hans and Kati. While I cherish these solo adventures, sharing moments like these with them would make it even more special. I made a mental note to plan a trip back here with them someday.

The trail led us through a tunnel and across the Anbo-gawa River via the Kosugidani Bridge. Soon, I reached the Ruins of Kosugidani Village, a poignant reminder of Yakushima's logging history. It was fascinating to imagine life in this once-thriving village, now reclaimed by nature. The village was inhabited between 1953 and 1970, during the peak of the logging era, before Yakushima was designated as a World Natural Heritage site. Back then, the village had over 500 residents, a school, a junior high, and even a post office.

In the presence of ancient trees, one feels the insignificance of human existence and the enduring power of nature.

Continuing along the former rail car track, I eventually reached the turnoff for the Okabu Footpath, where the real ascent began. The trail transformed into a series of steep steps, testing my stamina and resolve. It was a challenging climb, but the promise of witnessing the ancient cedars spurred me onward.

Along the way, I was rewarded with glimpses of other magnificent Yakushima cedar trees, including the impressive Sandaisugi Cedar. This three-generation cedar is a fusion of three generations of trees. The first-generation tree fell after living for about 1,200 years. The second generation grew on its stump and lived 1,000 years, and the third generation sprouted on the remains of the second and has lived 350 years so far. Standing at an impressive 38.4 meters tall, with a 4.4-meter circumference, it was a testament to the resilience and longevity of these ancient trees.

Explore the ancient beauty of Sandaisugi Cedar, a serene nature preserve in Yakushima, renowned for its majestic cedar trees and rich biodiversity.

The forest was alive with the sounds of nature – the rustling of leaves, the chirping of birds, and the gentle patter of rain. I felt a deep connection to the environment, a sense of belonging to something larger than myself. I thought about my childhood in Võru, surrounded by forests and lakes, and how those early experiences shaped my appreciation for nature.

After what felt like an eternity, I finally reached the observation deck overlooking the Jōmon Sugi. There it stood, a gnarled and majestic giant, estimated to be between 2,170 and 7,200 years old. Its massive trunk, with a circumference of 16.4 meters, spoke of countless seasons and untold stories.

The Jōmon Sugi is the oldest and largest of the Japanese cedar trees found on Yakushima. The tree's name is a reference to the Jōmon period of Japanese prehistory. It stands 25.3 meters (83 ft) tall. The harsh growing conditions, including heavy rainfall and low soil nutrition, have forced the trees to grow incredibly slowly and build up high amounts of resin, protecting them from disease and decay.

I stood in awe, gazing at this ancient being, feeling a profound sense of humility. It was a moment of pure magic, a reminder of the interconnectedness of all living things. The Jōmon Sugi has been nurturing various plant and tree species for thousands of years. It is home to 23 varieties of epiphytes, including several species of rhododendron.

Spending time in front of this grim titan of a tree, rising from the spongy ground more like rock than timber, his vast muscular arms extended above the tangle of young cedars and camphor trees is something I will cherish for years to come.

The hike back was just as challenging, but I was buoyed by the memory of the Jōmon Sugi and the stunning scenery that surrounded me. I made sure to take my time, soaking in the atmosphere and capturing as many photos as possible.

Back in town, I treated myself to a well-deserved lunch at hiyoriya, a charming restaurant known for its organic and mostly vegetarian cuisine. The restaurant is located about 2km north of the Yakushima Airport. Hiyoriya serves organic and mostly vegetarian cuisine. The meal was delicious and nourishing, the perfect way to replenish my energy after a long day of hiking.

Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Hiyoriya in Yakushima, where fresh local ingredients meet traditional flavors amidst breathtaking scenery.

In the late afternoon, I visited Gallery KIANU, a local art gallery featuring works by photographer yu-. I was captivated by the beautiful prints and crafts on display, each one reflecting the unique beauty of Yakushima. The gallery offers original products and works by artists from both inside and outside Yakushima.

Explore Gallery KIANU in Yakushima: A treasure trove of local pottery and unique artisanal crafts awaits you.

For dinner, I ventured to Yakushima Furusato Market Island Megumi Kan, a bustling marketplace offering a variety of local delicacies. I savored some deliciously grilled exocet and tasty sashimis. It was a delightful way to end the day, immersing myself in the local culture and flavors.

Discover Yakushima's culinary treasures and unique souvenirs at Furusato Market Island Megumi Kan - where local flavors meet island charm.

As I reflect on today's adventure, I am filled with gratitude for the opportunity to experience the magic of Yakushima. It was a day of physical exertion, spiritual connection, and profound appreciation for the natural world.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore Yakusugi Land and Yakushima National Park, eager to uncover more of this island's hidden treasures. I might even check out BAR しらはま in the evening for a taste of the local nightlife. Good night from Yakushima!