Family Adventure on Hiiumaa Island: Exploring Estonia's Hidden Gem

A Day of Noble History

Today was a day of stepping back in time, a journey into Estonia's noble past. Hiiumaa Island continues to surprise and enchant me with its hidden treasures. With my family by my side, I was eager to explore the grand Suuremõisa mansion and its surrounding park, ready to immerse ourselves in the island's rich cultural tapestry. It felt especially poignant, reconnecting with my Estonian heritage in such a tangible way.


Explore the stunning Suuremõisa Mansion, a historical gem in Hiiu County showcasing exquisite architecture and rich cultural heritage.

Our day began, as most good days do, with a hearty breakfast at Cafe Gahwa in Kärdla. It's a charming spot right by the central square, and I must say, they weren't exaggerating about having the best coffee on Hiiumaa. The aroma alone was enough to invigorate me for the day's adventures. Kati opted for the English breakfast, a little taste of familiarity, while Hans and I shared some traditional Estonian pancakes. Fuelled up and ready to go, we set off towards Suuremõisa.


Discover the warmth of Café Gahwa in Kärdla – where fresh flavors meet cozy vibes for an unforgettable dining experience.

As we drove, the landscape unfolded before us, a patchwork of green fields and dense forests. It's June, and Hiiumaa is at its most vibrant. The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of wildflowers. I couldn't help but feel a sense of peace, a feeling of being exactly where I was meant to be. Maybe it’s the Estonian blood in me, but there's something about this island that just feels like coming home.

Finally, the Suuremõisa mansion came into view, a magnificent baroque structure that dominates the landscape. I could already imagine the stories it held within its walls. The mansion was commissioned by Countess Ebba-Margaretha von Stenbock in the mid-18th century. It's the grandest baroque manor ensemble in Estonia, and it truly lives up to its reputation. The architect was supposedly Joseph Gabriel Destain.

We parked the car and walked towards the entrance, taking a moment to admire the architecture. The hipped mansard roof and the two wings are said to be inspired by Ulriksdal Palace in Sweden, a testament to the Stenbock family's connections and aspirations. The fine carved baroque main door was particularly striking, a beautiful example of the craftsmanship of the era.

Inside, we explored the museum room, which offered a fascinating glimpse into the history of the manor and its inhabitants. I learned about the various noble families who had owned the estate over the centuries, including the De la Gardie family and the infamous Otto Reinhold Ludwig von Ungern-Sternberg. Ungern-Sternberg was quite a character, known for his wrecking practices and eventual exile to Siberia. His life has inspired many literary works and local legends. It's amazing how much history is concentrated in this one building.

Kati was particularly intrigued by the stories of the schools that have been accommodated in the main building after the manor era. First a private school, then a parish school, and later the Suuremõisa Basic School, which still operates in the northern wing. In 1977, Putkaste Agricultural Technical School was opened in the main building of the manor, evolving into the present-day Hiiumaa Vocational School. It's wonderful to see how the building has adapted to serve the community over the years.

History is not a burden on the memory but an illumination of the soul.

After the mansion, we ventured into the Suuremõisa Park, the largest park on Hiiumaa. Spanning 45 hectares, it's a sprawling oasis of green, with a mix of formal Baroque gardens and more natural English-style landscapes. The park was founded by Countess Ebba Margareta von Stenbock in 1755, during the construction of the manor.


Experience the natural beauty and tranquility at Suuremõisa Park in Hiiu County, Estonia, a perfect escape for nature lovers and history enthusiasts.

The portions closest to the castle, with their terraces, roads, and ponds, still reflect the original Baroque design. As we wandered further afield, the landscape became more natural, with winding paths and groves of trees. I read that the oldest parts of the park, behind the main building, are surrounded by a 2-meter-high wall topped with red roof tiles. Sadly, little remains of the walls to the west of the building.

We strolled along the mowed grass paths, admiring the diverse collection of trees and shrubs. I was particularly impressed by the giant trees, including Estonia's tallest European Silver Fir, Sitka Spruce, and Japanese Larch. According to what I read, the park contains about fifty varieties of trees and shrubs. The largest European Ash is 32 meters tall and 2.2 meters in circumference. The largest wych elm is 25 meters tall and 2.1 meters in circumference. The largest tilia is 21 meters tall and 2.4 meters in circumference. The park contains allees of oak, horse chestnut, and maple. White pine, Swiss pine, Balsam fir, Northern Oak, and White Spruce are also found in the park.

Kati, ever the athlete, couldn't resist climbing the small hill between the two ponds. Apparently, it was once topped by a cottage known as Babylon, a mispronunciation of pavilion. The ponds themselves are spring-fed and used to raise fish, adding to the park's charm and history.

We also explored the cherry garden of the manor, established in the 1870s. In addition to cherry trees, other fruit trees, berry bushes, vegetables and flowers were grown here. The era of the manors is reminded by countless round snowdrop beds and a few hazels in the back of the garden. In the 1970s and 1980s, the cherry garden was turned into the schoolyard and continues as a site used for apprenticeship training at the Hiiumaa Vocational School. The garden is landscaped by teachers, gardeners and students. New exciting installations, planted areas and plants are constantly added. The area surrounded by walls covers nearly 6,000 square metres. From the park in the rear and the ruins of the stable, gates open up to lead to the species-rich Renaissance-flavoured ornamental garden.

After our walk, we decided to have lunch at Mamma Mia Pizzeria Italiana & Guesthouse in Kärdla. It was a delightful experience, and the pizza was fantastic. It’s situated in a historical building from 1937, full of rustic charm. The owner, Michele Parrucci, is bringing a little bit of the Italian spirit to the beautiful island of Hiiumaa and combining Italy's culinary treasures with the fresh and wholesome local ingredients.


Experience authentic Italian cuisine at Mamma Mia Pizzeria Italiana & Guesthouse in Kärdla - where flavor meets comfort.

Before heading back, we stopped at Käsitöömaja, a local craft shop, to pick up a few souvenirs. It's a treasure trove of handmade items, reflecting the rich cultural heritage of Estonia. I found a beautiful hand-knitted scarf for my mother and a wooden toy for my niece. Supporting local artisans is important to me, and it's a great way to bring a piece of Hiiumaa back home.


Explore Käsitöömaja in Kärdla for authentic local crafts and immerse yourself in the rich heritage of Hiiu County.

For dinner, we indulged in Greek cuisine at Ambrosia Kreeka Kohvik & Grill. It's a family cafe that offers Greek food and flavors. They use authentic ingredients from Greece and prepare their dishes in traditional ways, following recipes from their ancestors.


Experience authentic Estonian flavors at Ambrosia Kreeka Kohvik & Grill in Kärdla - where every meal is a celebration of local cuisine.

As the day drew to a close, I reflected on our experiences. Suuremõisa is more than just a mansion and a park; it's a living testament to Estonia's history and natural beauty. It's a place where you can connect with the past, appreciate the present, and look forward to the future.

Tomorrow, we're planning to explore the Tahkuna peninsula, visiting the Tahkuna lighthouse and the beautiful Tahkuna Paradiisirand. I'm excited to see what other wonders Hiiumaa has in store for us.

This evening, as I sit here writing, I feel a deep sense of gratitude. Gratitude for the opportunity to share these experiences with my family, gratitude for the chance to reconnect with my roots, and gratitude for the beauty and history that surrounds me. Hiiumaa is truly a special place, and I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings. I am also happy to see that there will be a Jaanipäeva kontsert – Neeme Ots (trompet), Jaan Ots (klaver) at Suuremõisa loss on June 24. It would be interesting to attend, but we will be gone by then.

The hotel we're staying at is quite cozy, a perfect little retreat after a day of exploring. It's nothing fancy, but it's clean, comfortable, and the staff are incredibly friendly. It reminds me of the guesthouses my grandparents used to run in Võru, simple but welcoming.

As I drift off to sleep, I'm already dreaming of lighthouses and sandy beaches. Hiiumaa, you have captured my heart. Good night, everyone!