A Solo Adventure in Peneda-Gerês National Park

Echoes of the Earth

Today, I ventured deeper into the heart of Peneda-Gerês National Park, seeking to uncover the stories etched into its landscapes. From the remnants of ancient mines to panoramic viewpoints and sprawling biosphere reserves, the day promised a blend of history, nature, and breathtaking vistas. I was eager to experience the raw beauty and cultural richness of this unique corner of Portugal.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at RESTAURANTE VIDEIRA. Fuelled by traditional Portuguese flavors, I set off towards my first destination: Minas dos Carris.

The drive to Minas dos Carris was an adventure in itself, the winding roads carving through the mountainous terrain, each turn revealing a new vista of verdant hills and rocky outcrops. The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of pine and damp earth, a refreshing change from the urban air of Berlin. I couldn't help but think of Hans and how much he would have enjoyed this drive. He always appreciated the engineering marvel of roads built into challenging landscapes. I made a mental note to bring him here someday. The journey reminded me of our drives through the Black Forest, although this landscape had a unique, almost mystical quality.

Arriving at Minas dos Carris, I was immediately struck by the stark contrast between the natural beauty surrounding the area and the industrial remnants of the mines. The abandoned mining site stood as a testament to a bygone era, a time when the earth's resources were relentlessly extracted. As I walked through the ruins, I imagined the lives of the miners who once toiled here, their days filled with the sounds of machinery and the ever-present danger of cave-ins. It was a sobering reminder of the human cost of progress. The silence that now pervaded the area was broken only by the wind whistling through the skeletal remains of the buildings.


Explore the stunning landscapes and rich history of Minas dos Carris, a national reserve perfect for hiking and discovering nature's wonders.

Exploring the area, I discovered remnants of the old infrastructure – rusted machinery, crumbling walls, and overgrown railway tracks. Each element told a story of hard work, ambition, and eventual abandonment. The mines, once a bustling hub of activity, now lay silent, reclaimed by nature. I spent a good hour wandering around, taking photographs and reflecting on the passage of time. It was a poignant experience, a reminder that even the most industrious endeavors are ultimately transient.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found in the quiet echoes of the past, where nature reclaims what was once taken.

Leaving Minas dos Carris, I drove towards Miradouro da Ermida, eager to experience the panoramic views I had read so much about. The drive was short, but the anticipation grew with each passing kilometer. As I ascended, the landscape transformed, the dense forests giving way to open spaces that offered glimpses of the valleys below. The late morning sun cast long shadows across the hills, creating a dramatic effect that heightened the sense of anticipation.

Arriving at Miradouro da Ermida, I was immediately captivated by the breathtaking vista. The viewpoint offered a sweeping panorama of the surrounding landscape – rolling hills, verdant valleys, and the shimmering waters of a distant reservoir. The air was fresh and invigorating, carrying the scent of wildflowers and damp earth. It was a scene of unparalleled beauty, a perfect example of the natural splendor that Peneda-Gerês National Park had to offer. I could have spent hours simply gazing at the view, lost in contemplation and appreciation.


Experience the serene beauty and breathtaking views at Miradouro da Ermida, a hidden gem in Portugal's picturesque countryside.

I took several deep breaths, filling my lungs with the clean mountain air, and closed my eyes for a moment, allowing the sounds of nature to wash over me. The gentle breeze rustled through the trees, carrying the songs of birds and the distant murmur of water. It was a symphony of nature, a reminder of the simple pleasures in life. I felt a sense of peace and tranquility that I rarely experienced in the bustling city of Berlin.

After soaking in the views, I decided to explore the surrounding area. I discovered a network of hiking trails that wound through the hills, each offering a different perspective of the landscape. I chose a relatively short trail that led to a nearby waterfall, eager to experience the natural beauty up close. The trail was well-maintained, but challenging enough to provide a good workout. As I hiked, I marveled at the diversity of flora and fauna, the vibrant colors of the wildflowers contrasting with the dark greens of the trees.

The waterfall was a sight to behold, a cascade of crystal-clear water plunging into a pool below. I spent some time simply watching the water flow, mesmerized by its power and grace. It was a perfect spot for contemplation, a place to reflect on the day's adventures and to appreciate the beauty of nature. I even spotted a few brave souls taking a dip in the icy waters, their screams of delight echoing through the valley. I resisted the temptation to join them, content to simply observe and appreciate.

Leaving Miradouro da Ermida, I made my way to the Reserva de la Biosfera Transfronteriza Gerês-Xurés, a vast protected area that straddles the border between Portugal and Spain. I was eager to learn more about this unique ecosystem and to experience its natural beauty firsthand. The reserve is a testament to international cooperation, a shared commitment to preserving the natural and cultural heritage of the region.

As I entered the reserve, I was immediately struck by the diversity of the landscape. Rolling hills gave way to rocky mountains, dense forests transitioned into open meadows, and crystal-clear rivers meandered through the valleys. The reserve was a mosaic of habitats, each supporting a unique array of plant and animal life. I felt like an explorer, venturing into uncharted territory, eager to discover the secrets hidden within this vast wilderness.


Explore the enchanting landscapes and diverse wildlife of Reserva de la Biosfera Transfronteriza Gerês-Xurés, a nature lover's paradise on the Spain-Portugal border.

I stopped at the visitor center to learn more about the reserve's history, ecology, and conservation efforts. The staff was incredibly knowledgeable and passionate, sharing stories of the local flora and fauna, as well as the challenges of managing such a large and diverse area. I learned about the reserve's efforts to protect endangered species, to promote sustainable tourism, and to educate local communities about the importance of conservation. It was inspiring to see such dedication and commitment to preserving the natural heritage of the region.

Driving through the reserve, I made several stops to explore different areas. I hiked through ancient forests, marveling at the towering trees and the intricate undergrowth. I visited picturesque villages, learning about the local culture and traditions. I even had the opportunity to sample some of the regional cuisine, savoring the flavors of locally sourced ingredients. Each experience deepened my appreciation for the unique character of the Gerês-Xurés Biosphere Reserve.

For lunch, I stopped at Restaurante Cerdeira, located within Parque Cerdeira. The restaurant is known for its Minho cuisine, using local products and vegetables from their own garden. I enjoyed a delicious meal while overlooking the green mountains, a truly immersive experience. I opted for the Bacalhau a Lagareiro (codfish), a local recommendation, and it was absolutely divine. The fish was perfectly cooked, and the flavors were rich and complex. It was a perfect representation of the regional cuisine, a celebration of fresh, locally sourced ingredients.


Discover authentic Portuguese cuisine amidst the stunning landscapes of Gerês at Restaurante Cerdeira.

As the sun began to set, I made my way to Pirata Do Gerês, a local bar known for its relaxing atmosphere and impressive views. I ordered a glass of local wine and sat on the terrace, watching the sky transform into a canvas of vibrant colors. The air was cool and crisp, carrying the scent of pine and damp earth. It was a perfect end to a perfect day, a moment of peace and tranquility that I would cherish for a long time.


Discover the lively atmosphere and delightful drinks at Pirata Do Gerês, the perfect bar for relaxing after exploring the stunning Gerês region.

Before heading back to my accommodation, I had dinner at Saber ao Borralho in Soajo. This restaurant is a local favorite, known for its traditional granite houses and village traditions. I tried the cachena stew, a hearty dish with meat, rice, beans, and vegetables. It was the perfect comfort food after a day of exploring.


Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine at Saber ao Borralho in Arcos de Valdevez - a must-visit culinary destination.

Reflecting on the day, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the natural beauty and cultural richness of Peneda-Gerês National Park. From the haunting remnants of Minas dos Carris to the panoramic vistas of Miradouro da Ermida and the sprawling wilderness of the Gerês-Xurés Biosphere Reserve, each location had left an indelible mark on my soul. It was a day of discovery, a day of connection, and a day of profound appreciation for the wonders of nature.

Tomorrow marks the last day of my solo adventure. I plan to visit Parque Nacional Peneda-Gerês, Ponte velha de Castro Laboreiro, and Cascata da Laja. I also intend to stop by Supermercado Amanhecer Gerês to pick up some local treats before heading back to Berlin. I am already looking forward to sharing my experiences with Hans and planning our next adventure together. Perhaps we can even bring some of the honey I've been inspired to produce, a little taste of Berlin's urban beekeeping scene amidst Portugal's natural beauty. Until then, goodnight from Portugal!