Lucia's Solo Escape to the Tranquil Con Dao Islands

Echoes of the Past

Today marked the final day of my solo journey to the Con Dao Islands, and it was perhaps the most profound. I wanted to dedicate this day to understanding the islands' history, particularly the stories of resilience and sacrifice that have shaped its identity. My heart was open, ready to absorb the lessons of the past, and to pay my respects to those who came before me.

My day began with a comforting breakfast at Cây Bàng Đỏ. The atmosphere was charming, and the traditional Vietnamese dishes gave me a sense of connection to the local culture. Fuelled up, I set out to face the day's itinerary, a mix of somber reflection and quiet appreciation for the strength of the human spirit.


Experience authentic Vietnamese cuisine at Cây Bàng Đỏ in beautiful Côn Đảo – where tradition meets flavor.

The first stop was the Hang Duong Cemetery. As I walked through the gates, a wave of tranquility washed over me, juxtaposed with the heavy weight of history. This is the final resting place of thousands of Vietnamese independence fighters and prisoners who perished at the Con Dao Prison. The cemetery is divided into four zones, each holding stories of immense suffering and sacrifice.


Explore Hang Duong Cemetery in Ba Ria - Vung Tau, a serene memorial honoring Vietnam's brave heroes and rich cultural heritage.

Walking through Hang Duong Cemetery, I felt a profound sense of reverence. The air was still, and the only sounds were the gentle rustling of leaves and the soft whispers of visitors paying their respects. Many graves are unmarked, a stark reminder of the countless lives lost in anonymity. Yet, among them are the tombs of celebrated revolutionary heroes like Lê Hồng Phong, Nguyễn An Ninh, and Võ Thị Sáu. I paused at Võ Thị Sáu's tomb, a prominent figure in Vietnamese history, and felt deeply moved by her story of courage and unwavering dedication to her country.

Visiting Hang Duong Cemetery is not just about seeing graves; it's about connecting with the souls of those who fought for a better future and honoring their memory.

The cemetery was initially a mass burial ground established by the French. It wasn't until 1992 that it was officially commenced. As evening approached, I noticed more and more people arriving to pay their respects, lighting incense and offering prayers. The atmosphere was thick with gratitude and remembrance, a powerful reminder of the price of freedom.

After a morning of reflection, I headed to Quán Cơm Su Su for lunch. The restaurant was bustling with locals and tourists alike, drawn in by the promise of authentic Vietnamese cuisine. I ordered a plate of cơm tấm, broken rice with grilled pork, and savored each bite, appreciating the simple yet flavorful dish. It was a comforting meal that helped to ground me after the emotional experience at the cemetery.


Experience authentic Vietnamese cuisine at Quán Cơm Su Su in beautiful Côn Đảo, where flavor meets affordability.

Next on the itinerary was Trại Phú Tường, also known as Chuồng Cọp Pháp or the French Tiger Cages. This former prison complex, built by the French, is a chilling reminder of the brutal conditions endured by political prisoners. As I walked through the narrow corridors and peered into the cramped cells, I could almost feel the despair and suffering that permeated these walls.


Discover the historical charm of Trại Phú Tường, a captivating landmark in Ba Ria - Vung Tau, Vietnam, blending rich history with breathtaking landscapes.

The tiger cages were designed to inflict maximum physical and psychological torment. Prisoners were kept in farmyard-style quarters and were subjected to inhumane treatment, including being beaten with iron-tipped rods, doused with dirty water, and pelted with lime powder. The cells were small and dark, with iron bars overhead, allowing guards to monitor and abuse the prisoners at will. Many prisoners were secretly moved here, often blindfolded to disorient them, and could be killed at any moment.

It wasn't until 1970, after years of secrecy, that the existence of the tiger cages was revealed to the world. The exposure led to international condemnation and eventually forced the South Vietnamese government to dismantle the prison. Today, Trại Phú Tường stands as a stark reminder of the atrocities committed during the war and a testament to the resilience of the human spirit.

I left Trại Phú Tường with a heavy heart, but also with a renewed sense of appreciation for the freedoms I enjoy. The visit was a powerful reminder of the importance of standing up for justice and human rights, and of never forgetting the sacrifices made by those who came before us.

For dinner, I chose Nhà hàng Phố Biển, hoping to enjoy some fresh seafood with a view of the ocean. The restaurant had a charming, rustic ambiance, and the menu was filled with local delicacies. I ordered grilled squid and a plate of stir-fried morning glory, savoring the flavors of the sea and the vibrant atmosphere of the restaurant.


Discover authentic Vietnamese cuisine at Nhà hàng Phố Biển in Côn Đảo - where fresh seafood meets stunning ocean views.

As the sun began to set, I made my way to Sea Sense Bar and Grill. I wanted to reflect on the day and enjoy one last moment of peace before heading back to my guesthouse. The bar was lively, with a mix of locals and tourists enjoying cocktails and the stunning ocean views. I ordered a mojito and sat on the beach, listening to the waves and watching the sky turn shades of orange and pink.


Discover the flavors of Côn Đảo at Sea Sense Bar and Grill, where fresh seafood meets stunning ocean views for an unforgettable dining experience.

I thought about my time on Con Dao, the natural beauty of the islands, the history, and the resilience of the people. It was a journey that touched my soul and broadened my understanding of the world. As I sipped my mojito, I made a promise to myself to carry the lessons of Con Dao with me, to never take my freedom for granted, and to always stand up for what is right.

Tomorrow, I'll be heading back to Berlin, carrying with me the echoes of Con Dao's past and the warmth of its people. It’s been an unforgettable solo adventure, a journey of discovery and remembrance that I will cherish forever. I am deeply grateful for the opportunity to have experienced this unique corner of the world, and I know that the memories of Con Dao will stay with me always.

As I prepare to leave, I am reminded of the importance of sustainable tourism and supporting local communities. Staying in local guesthouses and eating at local restaurants has allowed me to connect with the people of Con Dao and contribute to their economy. I hope that more travelers will choose to visit Con Dao in a responsible and respectful way, ensuring that the islands' natural beauty and rich culture are preserved for future generations. Until next time, Con Dao, thank you for everything. Safe travels to all, and may we never forget the lessons of the past.