Exploring the Rich Heritage of Fes with Friends

Echoes of History in Fes

Today was a day of venturing into the heart of Fes, where the past whispers from every corner. From ancient gates that once guarded the city to the solemn necropolis where dynasties rest, it was a journey through time. The vibrant culture and historical depth of Fes continue to captivate me, making each day here an unforgettable experience.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Cafe Clock. The cafe was a delightful mix of tourists and local Moroccan youth. After a bit of a slow start - I swear, I am not a morning person, and the strong Moroccan sun streaming through the windows didn't help - the mint tea and traditional Moroccan pastries perked me right up. It’s amazing how a simple cup of tea can be such a cultural experience. It reminded me of the cozy cafes back in Berlin, but with an exotic twist. I was so glad to share this moment with my friends. After breakfast, we were ready to immerse ourselves in the city's rich history.

Our first stop was Bab Mahrouk, one of the main western gates of Fes el Bali. As an archivist, I'm always drawn to historical structures, and this gate was no exception. The name “Gate of the Burnt” has such a dramatic ring to it. Apparently, it got its name after a rebel was burned there centuries ago. It’s a bit grim, but history often is. The architecture was impressive, with its bent entrance and Moorish arch. I could almost hear the echoes of centuries past as we walked through it. The gate was built in 1204 by the Almohad ruler Muhammad al-Nasir, who rebuilt the city walls and fortifications of Fes. It was also known as Bab ash-Shari'a (باب الشريعة meaning roughly Gate of Justice/Law), but became known as Bab Mahruq (Gate of the Burnt) after the body of a Wazzani rebel called al-'Ubaydi was burnt here in 1203-04 (600 AH). The heads of executed rebels were hung here on display, a practice that continued on occasion even up to the beginning of the 20th century.


Discover the historical beauty of Bab Mahrouk, a stunning gateway that connects you to the rich heritage of Fes, Morocco.

History is a relentless storyteller, and every place has a tale to tell.

Just outside the gate, we explored the Bab Mahrouk Cemetery. It was a sobering experience, walking among the graves, each one telling a silent story. I learned that Abu Bakr ibn al-Arabi, a 12th-century Islamic scholar, is buried there, as is Ibn al-Khatib, a famous Andalusian poet. There’s even a possibility that Muhammad XII, the last ruler of Granada, is buried there, though it’s not confirmed. As we walked through the cemetery, I couldn't help but reflect on the layers of history beneath our feet. It reminded me of the countless documents and artifacts I handle at the museum, each with its own unique story to tell. The cemetery was a stark reminder of the passage of time and the enduring legacy of those who came before us.

Next, we strolled to Place de Florence, a square in the Ville Nouvelle, or New Town. After the intensity of the medina, it was a welcome change of pace. The square is inspired by the Baptistery of San Giovanni in Florence, Italy, and it had a serene, European feel to it. It's amazing how different the New Town is from the old medina. The wide boulevards and Art Deco buildings felt like a different world. We took a few moments to sit by the fountain, enjoying the relative calm before diving back into the bustling city. The architecture of the Bank al-Maghrib building, designed by René Canu, was particularly striking, with its series of wide arches and symmetrical windows. The square provided a perfect spot for people-watching, and we enjoyed observing the locals going about their day. It was a peaceful interlude in our otherwise busy day.


Discover the tranquil beauty of Place de Florence, a serene garden in Fes perfect for relaxation and nature walks in the heart of the city.

For lunch, we headed to Restaurant Palais Lahlou, located in the ancient medina. The restaurant was beautiful, adorned with intricate tile work and traditional Moroccan decor. We indulged in a variety of authentic Moroccan dishes, from aromatic tagines to savory couscous. I particularly enjoyed the lemon chicken, which was cooked to perfection. The flavors were incredible, and everything was so fresh. It was a true culinary delight. The restaurant’s location in the heart of the medina added to the experience, and we enjoyed exploring the nearby artisan shops and markets after our meal. The staff were incredibly friendly and attentive, making our lunch even more enjoyable. It was the perfect place to savor the essence of Moroccan gastronomy.


Experience authentic Moroccan flavors in an enchanting setting at Restaurant Palais Lahlou in Fes.

After lunch, it was time for some shopping. We visited Les Articles du Rif, a charming home goods store. I was on the hunt for some authentic souvenirs, and this place did not disappoint. The store was filled with beautiful Moroccan crafts, from ceramics to textiles. I ended up buying a few small tagines to bring back home. I am sure Anna will love them. It was fascinating to learn about the craftsmanship and the stories behind each item. The shop owners were passionate about their work, and their enthusiasm was infectious. It was a great opportunity to support local artisans and bring a piece of Morocco back to Berlin.


Discover unique Moroccan craftsmanship at Les Articles du Rif, a charming home goods store in the heart of Fes, perfect for authentic souvenirs.

Our final stop for the day was the Merinide Necropole, located on a hill overlooking Fes el Bali. The tombs are in ruins, but the view was absolutely worth the trek. From up there, we could see the entire city, a sprawling tapestry of buildings and minarets. It was breathtaking. The necropolis was originally a royal necropolis for the Marinid dynasty, which ruled Morocco from the 13th to the 15th centuries. Despite their ruined state, the tombs still held a sense of grandeur. As the sun began to set, the city was bathed in a warm, golden light, making the view even more spectacular. It was a perfect way to end the day, reflecting on the history and beauty of Fes. The necropolis provided a unique perspective on the city, allowing us to appreciate its vastness and complexity.


Explore the Merinide Necropole in Fes, a serene historical site that offers a glimpse into Morocco's rich past and stunning city views.

Dinner was at Zagora, a restaurant specializing in haute French cuisine. It was a bit of a change from the traditional Moroccan food we had been eating, but it was a welcome one. The restaurant had a refined atmosphere, and the food was exquisite. I ordered a classic French dish, and it was cooked to perfection. The wine selection was also impressive, and the staff were knowledgeable and attentive. It was a delightful dining experience. The restaurant's elegant decor and warm ambiance made it a perfect place to relax and unwind after a long day of exploring. It was a fitting end to a day filled with historical and cultural immersion.


Experience exquisite haute French cuisine at Zagora in Fes - where culinary artistry meets Moroccan hospitality.

As I sit here writing this, I am already looking forward to tomorrow. We are planning to visit Bab Makina Plaza, Point de Vue Allal El Fassi, and Dar al-Magana (Water Clock). I am particularly excited about the Water Clock. It sounds fascinating. And of course, we will be trying out some new restaurants, including Nagham Cafe for breakfast, Restaurant Soultana for lunch, and Isla Blanca for dinner. I am also looking forward to unwinding at Café Calairis in the evening. It promises to be another day filled with exploration and adventure.

Reflecting on today, I am struck by the layers of history and culture that permeate Fes. From the ancient gates to the solemn tombs, every corner of the city has a story to tell. I am grateful for the opportunity to explore this fascinating place with my friends and to share my experiences with you. Fes continues to surprise and delight me, and I am eager to see what tomorrow brings.