Solo Exploration of Yakushima's Natural Wonders

Encountering the Spirits of Yakushima

Today was nothing short of magical. Leaving behind the familiar sounds of Berlin for the primeval forests of Yakushima has been a journey into another world. It's a world where the trees whisper secrets of centuries past, and the air is thick with the scent of damp earth and ancient wood. Today, I ventured deeper into this enchanting realm, and the experience has left me profoundly moved.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Smiley in Anbo. It's a cozy little café overlooking the harbor. I enjoyed a simple but satisfying meal of coffee and a vegetarian muffin sandwich. Fueled up and ready, I set off for Shiratani Unsui Gorge.


Explore the lush beauty of Shiratani Unsui Gorge, a scenic gem in Yakushima, featuring ancient cedar forests and stunning hiking trails.
The drive itself was an adventure. As I got closer to the entrance of the gorge, I spotted some Yakushima deer and monkeys. It's a good reminder that we are merely guests in their home. The winding mountain roads demand careful navigation, but the views are worth every twist and turn.

Arriving at Shiratani Unsui Gorge, I paid a small fee, a donation towards forest conservation efforts. The entrance to the hiking trails is only a 20-30 minute drive from the Miyanoura port. This act felt like a humble offering to the spirits of the forest, a way of acknowledging the profound respect I feel for this place. The air was cool and damp, a welcome contrast to the humid July air. The forest floor was a vibrant carpet of moss, a scene straight out of a fairytale.

I decided to follow the trail that leads to Wilson’s Stump, a relic of a giant cedar tree. The path wound through ancient trees, their gnarled roots grasping the earth like the fingers of ancient beings. Sunlight filtered through the canopy, casting dappled shadows on the forest floor. The only sounds were the gentle murmur of the stream and the rustling of leaves in the breeze.


Explore the breathtaking Wilson's Stump in Yakushima, a natural wonder showcasing the island's rich biodiversity and stunning landscapes.
The deeper I hiked, the more I felt like I was stepping back in time. The forest here feels untouched, primordial. It's easy to see why this place is said to have inspired Miyazaki's *Princess Mononoke*. The landscape is deeply forested and strewn with granite boulders. The moss-covered stones and ancient trees exude a mystical atmosphere.

In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks.

Finally, I reached Wilson’s Stump. This massive stump is the remains of a Yakusugi cedar, believed to have been cut down about 400 years ago. It's named after the English botanist Ernest Henry Wilson, who studied Yakushima's unique flora. The stump is enormous, with a circumference of 13.8 meters.

Inside the stump, a small spring gushes out and forms a small stream. There is also a small shrine inside. Looking up from within the stump, the sky is framed in a heart shape. It was a truly magical moment, a chance to connect with the ancient heart of the forest. The heart-shaped view is locally celebrated as a sensible location to bring a first date.

I spent a long time inside Wilson’s Stump, simply absorbing the energy of the place. It felt like being inside a cathedral, a place of reverence and peace. The fresh water spring inside adds to the serene atmosphere.

After leaving Wilson’s Stump, I made my way back, taking a slightly different route to see more of the forest. I stopped for lunch at Hachiman, an izakaya. It's a small, local place, and I enjoyed a simple meal of tofu and edamame. It was a welcome break and a chance to refuel before continuing my explorations.


Discover the flavors of Japan at Hachiman in Yakushima - an authentic izakaya experience awaits with delicious dishes and local drinks.
In the evening, I decided to try Il Mare, an Italian restaurant near the airport. It was a bit of a change from the traditional Japanese food I'd been eating, but I was curious to see what an Italian restaurant on a remote island would be like. Il Mare is known for its authentic Italian cuisine using local ingredients. The cozy and welcoming ambiance makes it an ideal spot.


Discover Il Mare in Yakushima for an unforgettable Italian dining experience amidst stunning natural beauty.
I wasn't disappointed. The pasta was delicious, and the seafood was incredibly fresh. It was a delightful meal, and the perfect way to end a day of hiking and exploring. Il Mare offers a unique dining experience that blends the flavors of Italy with the enchanting spirit of Yakushima.

Before heading back to my guesthouse, I stopped at Cafe＆Bar RainTree. It’s a unique spot that combines a cafe with a karaoke bar. I enjoyed a quiet drink, soaking in the laid-back atmosphere before calling it a night. The staff are known for their warm hospitality.


Experience the unique blend of café culture and karaoke fun at Cafe＆Bar RainTree in Yakushima's enchanting landscapes.
As I walked back under the starlit sky, I felt an overwhelming sense of gratitude. Yakushima is a place that stays with you, a place that nourishes the soul. It's a reminder of the power and beauty of the natural world, and the importance of preserving it for future generations.

Tomorrow, I plan to tackle the Jōmon Sugi, a massive and ancient cedar. It's said to be one of the oldest and largest trees on the island, and I'm excited to see it for myself. I will have breakfast at Yakushima Airport Restaurant. I'm also planning to visit Pukaridō, a local shop. Dinner will be at At Pesca. I know it will be another challenging but rewarding day, filled with more wonders and discoveries.

Back in Berlin, Hans and Sofia are probably getting ready for bed. I miss them terribly, but I know this journey is something I need to do for myself. It's a chance to reconnect with nature, to find inspiration, and to return home with a renewed sense of purpose. I can't wait to share my stories with them, to show them the photos I've taken, and to inspire them to embark on their own adventures.

I am also missing my portable phone charger and bug spray, something I need to remember for the next trip.

For now, though, I'm content to drift off to sleep, lulled by the sounds of the forest and the memories of a day well spent. Yakushima, you have captured my heart.