Solo Exploration of Yakushima's Natural Wonders

Echoes of Eternity: A Pilgrimage to Jōmon Sugi

Today was a day etched in time, a journey not just through miles of ancient forest, but through millennia. It was a pilgrimage to Jōmon Sugi, the ancient cedar that has stood sentinel over Yakushima for thousands of years. The hike was more than just a physical challenge; it was an immersion into the very soul of this island, a conversation with the past, and a meditation on the enduring power of nature.


Discover the ancient beauty of Jōmon Sugi, Japan's oldest cedar tree, nestled in the lush landscapes of Yakushima's UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The day began early, fueled by a quick breakfast at the Yakushima Airport Restaurant. It's a convenient spot, and while the prices might be a tad steep for airport fare, the chance to grab something before a long hike is invaluable. I had a simple but satisfying meal, a comforting start to what promised to be a long and demanding day. I made sure to thank the friendly staff and asked for some recommendations of local delicacies that I can try after my hike is over.


Experience authentic Japanese regional cuisine at Yakushima Airport Restaurant - where flavor meets nature's beauty.

The journey to the Jōmon Sugi trailhead was an experience in itself. The winding roads, carved into the mountainside, offered glimpses of the island's dramatic landscape. Lush greenery cascaded down steep slopes, and mist-shrouded peaks pierced the sky. It was a reminder of the raw, untamed beauty that defines Yakushima. The roads leading to Arakawa Trailhead are closed to private vehicles from March to November, so I had to take a bus from Yakusugi Shizenkan. The bus was packed with fellow hikers, all eager to witness the legendary tree. There was a sense of camaraderie among us, a shared anticipation of the journey ahead. I chatted briefly with a couple from Kyoto, exchanging travel stories and tips. It's these small interactions that often enrich the solo travel experience, reminding me that I'm never truly alone.

Finally, we arrived at the Arakawa Trailhead, the starting point for the trek to Jōmon Sugi. The air was crisp and cool, carrying the scent of damp earth and cedar. The trailhead was bustling with activity, hikers preparing their gear, guides leading their groups, and the general hum of excitement. I took a deep breath, adjusted my backpack, and stepped onto the trail, ready to embrace the challenge.

The initial part of the hike followed the old logging railway tracks, a relatively flat and easy path that wound its way through the forest. This section of the trail offered a glimpse into Yakushima's history, a reminder of the island's past as a logging center. The abandoned railway tracks, now overgrown with moss and vegetation, served as a poignant reminder of the industry that once thrived here. As I walked, I imagined the sounds of the trains and the axes, the lives of the loggers who worked these forests, and the impact of their labor on the landscape.

In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks.

After about eight kilometers, the trail veered away from the railway tracks and entered the heart of the forest. This is where the real climb began, a steep ascent through a primeval landscape. The terrain became more challenging, with uneven ground, rocky paths, and wooden stairs that seemed to climb endlessly. The air grew thick with humidity, and the sounds of the forest intensified – the rustling of leaves, the chirping of birds, and the distant roar of waterfalls.

I found myself slowing my pace, taking frequent breaks to catch my breath and admire the scenery. The forest was a symphony of green, with moss-covered trees, ferns, and a variety of plant life I couldn't even begin to identify. Sunlight filtered through the canopy, creating dappled patterns on the forest floor. It was like stepping into a scene from a fairy tale, a world of enchantment and wonder.

Along the way, I encountered several other hikers, each with their own story and motivation for making the trek. We exchanged smiles and words of encouragement, sharing the collective experience of pushing ourselves to reach our destination. There was a sense of camaraderie among us, a shared understanding of the challenge and the reward that awaited us.

One of the highlights of the hike was Wilson's Stump, the remains of a massive cedar tree that was felled centuries ago. The stump is so large that it can accommodate several people inside, and when viewed from a certain angle, it forms a heart shape. It was a surreal experience to stand inside this ancient tree, to feel the weight of history and the enduring power of nature. I took a moment to reflect on the tree's long life, the countless seasons it had witnessed, and the stories it could tell. It was a humbling experience, a reminder of my own insignificance in the grand scheme of things.

As I continued my ascent, the forest grew even more dense and mystical. The trees were taller, the moss thicker, and the air more humid. I felt a sense of awe and reverence, a feeling that I was walking through a sacred place. The forest was alive, breathing, and ancient. I was merely a visitor, a temporary presence in this timeless realm.

Finally, after hours of hiking, I reached my destination: Jōmon Sugi. The ancient cedar stood majestically on a high ridge, its massive trunk and gnarled branches a testament to its long life. It was a sight that took my breath away, a moment that I will never forget. The tree was even more impressive than I had imagined, a living monument to the power and resilience of nature.

I joined the other hikers who had gathered at the viewing platform, all of us gazing in awe at the ancient tree. There was a sense of quiet reverence among us, a shared appreciation for the beauty and majesty of Jōmon Sugi. I took several photos, trying to capture the essence of the tree, but I knew that no image could truly do it justice. It was something that had to be experienced firsthand, a moment that had to be felt in the heart.

I spent some time simply sitting and observing the tree, taking in its details, and feeling its energy. I marveled at its size, its age, and its ability to withstand the forces of nature for thousands of years. It was a symbol of strength, endurance, and resilience, a reminder that even in the face of adversity, life can persist and thrive.

As I sat there, I reflected on my own life, my own challenges, and my own aspirations. I thought about the things that truly mattered to me – my family, my friends, my passions, and my purpose. I realized that like Jōmon Sugi, I too wanted to live a life of strength, endurance, and resilience, a life that would leave a positive impact on the world.

The hike back down the mountain was equally challenging, but I felt a sense of accomplishment and contentment. I had made it to Jōmon Sugi, I had witnessed its beauty, and I had been inspired by its spirit. I carried that inspiration with me as I made my way back to the trailhead, my heart full of gratitude and my soul renewed.

Before heading to dinner, I decided to stop by Pukaridō, a charming little gift shop near the airport. It was the perfect place to find a small memento of my journey, a reminder of the day I spent in the presence of Jōmon Sugi. The shop was filled with local crafts and souvenirs, all made with the island's natural materials. I picked out a small Yakusugi wood carving, a tiny replica of the ancient cedar. It was a simple but meaningful reminder of my experience, a tangible connection to the spirit of Yakushima.


Explore Pukaridō in Yakushima for unique souvenirs and local liquors, capturing the essence of this beautiful island.

For dinner, I decided to try At Pesca, a restaurant known for its tasty and quick tempura meals. After a long day of hiking, I was craving something comforting and satisfying, and At Pesca did not disappoint. The tempura was perfectly crispy, the vegetables were fresh, and the atmosphere was cozy and welcoming. It was the perfect way to end a perfect day.


Experience fast food like never before at At Pesca in Yakushima – where local flavors meet quick service in a delightful setting.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore Senpiro Falls and Ohko Waterfall, two more of Yakushima's natural wonders. I'm also hoping to find some time to relax and soak in the island's peaceful atmosphere. But for now, I'm content to savor the memories of today, the whispers of the ancient cedar, and the echoes of eternity that resonate within my soul. I might even try to find Ambar, a local bar, for a nightcap. Yakushima continues to surprise and inspire me at every turn. I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.

It's moments like these, surrounded by nature's grandeur, that make me feel truly alive and connected to something larger than myself. As Hans always says, and I find myself agreeing more and more, it's the journey, not the destination, that matters most. Tonight, as I drift off to sleep, I'll carry the image of Jōmon Sugi in my mind, a beacon of hope and inspiration, a reminder that even the oldest and most resilient beings need our protection and respect.