Exploring the Mystical Caves of Phong Nha-Ke Bang

A Day of Epic Proportions

Today was a day unlike any other, a true testament to the wonders our planet holds. I’m still trying to process the sheer scale and beauty of what Jean-Pierre and I experienced within the depths of Hang Sơn Đoòng, the world's largest cave. It’s hard to believe that just a few days ago, we were in Montreal, and now we've journeyed into the heart of the earth.


Discover the breathtaking beauty of Hang Sơn Đoòng Cave, the world's largest cave, nestled in Vietnam's stunning Phong Nha-Kẻ Bàng National Park.
The day began early, with a hearty breakfast at Phong Nha Family Restaurant (Nhà Hàng Gia Đình Việt Nam). It was a bustling spot, filled with locals and tourists alike, all eager to start their day of adventure. I opted for the stir-fried noodles with tofu and vegetables, while Jean-Pierre went for the beef rice, fueling up for the physical challenges ahead. I must admit, the egg coffee was a delightful surprise – a rich, creamy concoction that gave us the perfect caffeine kick. It's fascinating how Vietnamese cuisine continues to surprise and delight me with its unique flavors; it reminds me a little of home, where we also have a penchant for blending unique flavors.


Discover authentic Vietnamese flavors at Phong Nha Family Restaurant in Quang Binh Province – a culinary gem amidst stunning natural beauty.
With our appetites satisfied, we met our tour group and guides. The anticipation was palpable as we set off towards Son Doong. The trek to the cave entrance was already an adventure in itself, a winding path through the dense, verdant jungle of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. The air was thick with humidity, and the sounds of the forest surrounded us – the chirping of insects, the rustling of leaves, and the occasional call of a distant bird. I was especially grateful I remembered to pack my hiking boots; the terrain was quite rugged. However, I did realize I had forgotten insect repellent, which I quickly came to regret as we trudged deeper into the jungle. Jean-Pierre, ever the prepared one, shared his.

Finally, we reached the entrance of Son Doong. Even from the outside, the cave was awe-inspiring, a gaping maw in the earth that seemed to swallow the very sky. As we descended into the depths, the temperature dropped noticeably, and the air grew heavy with moisture. The scale of the cave was simply staggering. It’s hard to describe the feeling of standing in a space so vast, so ancient, so utterly untouched by the modern world.

To venture into Son Doong is to step into another world, a realm of geological wonders and breathtaking beauty that humbles the soul.

Our exploration of Son Doong was a carefully orchestrated adventure. Oxalis Adventure is the primary tour operator and the only company authorized to lead expeditions into Son Doong, with tours costing thousands of dollars per person. These tours, limited to small groups, require advance booking and involve rigorous safety measures, expert guides, and a team of porters. The tours typically operate from January to August due to weather conditions. We booked our tour well in advance, and I was grateful for their expertise and attention to detail, especially considering the physical demands of the expedition.

The cave is more than just an empty chamber; it's an entire ecosystem, a world unto itself. We marveled at colossal stalactites and stalagmites, some reaching dozens of meters in height, sculpted over millennia by the patient hand of water and time. We navigated underground rivers, their waters cool and clear, reflecting the light of our headlamps in shimmering patterns on the cave walls. We climbed over rocky terrain, using ropes and harnesses to scale steep slopes, feeling like true explorers charting unknown territory.

One of the most surreal experiences was witnessing the cave's two massive dolines – areas where the roof had collapsed, creating openings to the sky above. These dolines allowed sunlight to penetrate into the cave, illuminating lush, tropical vegetation that thrived in this unique environment. It was like stumbling upon hidden gardens within the earth, a testament to the resilience of life in the most unexpected places.

Lunch was a welcome break, enjoyed amidst the otherworldly scenery of the cave. We had pre-arranged meals with ARTIST'S ZONE, a local Vietnamese eatery known for its Vietnamese cuisine. The menu included a variety of dishes, ranging from tofu to banana flower, as well as rice and vegan sushi. I savored every bite, knowing that this was a meal I would never forget. The spring rolls were particularly delightful, bursting with fresh herbs and vegetables. Jean-Pierre enjoyed a sandwich.


Experience authentic Vietnamese cuisine amidst artistic decor at ARTIST'S ZONE in Phong Nha – where culture meets flavor.
After lunch, we continued our exploration, venturing deeper into the cave's labyrinthine passages. We saw ancient fossils embedded in the cave walls, remnants of a time when this entire region was submerged beneath the sea. We learned about the geological processes that had shaped Son Doong over millions of years, the forces of nature that had created this subterranean masterpiece.

As the day drew to a close, we began our trek back towards the cave entrance. The climb out was challenging, but the sense of accomplishment spurred us onward. Emerging from the darkness into the fading light of the afternoon, I felt a profound sense of gratitude for having experienced such an incredible place.

Before heading back to our guesthouse, we stopped by Harry's Coconuts, a local shop known for its unique coconut-themed souvenirs. I picked up a small, hand-painted coconut shell as a memento of our adventure, a reminder of the day we conquered Son Doong.


Experience the vibrant flavors of Vietnam at Harry's Coconuts, a must-visit fruit and vegetable store in Phong Nha-Kẻ Bàng National Park.
For dinner, we decided to treat ourselves to a seafood feast at Nhà Hàng Hải Sản Nhật Phong 3. This restaurant is apparently famous in Nha Trang, offering stunning views. Though it was quite a drive, we were not disappointed. We feasted on an array of fresh seafood, savoring the flavors of the ocean as we recounted the day's adventures. Jean-Pierre particularly enjoyed the grilled prawns, while I couldn't get enough of the steamed fish. The restaurant had a vibrant atmosphere, filled with locals and tourists alike, all enjoying the delicious food and stunning views. It was the perfect way to end our day of epic proportions.


Experience the freshest seafood in Nha Trang at Nhà Hàng Hải Sản Nhật Phong 3 - where tradition meets taste!
As I reflect on our journey through Son Doong, I am reminded of the importance of preserving these natural wonders for future generations. Places like this are not just tourist attractions; they are living monuments to the power and beauty of our planet. It is our responsibility to protect them, to ensure that others have the opportunity to experience their magic.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore Hang Va Cave and En Cave, continuing our exploration of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. We'll start our day with breakfast at Phong Nha Vegan Restaurant, known for its healthy and delicious vegan options. In the afternoon, we'll have lunch at The Villas Restaurant, followed by dinner at Phong Nha Rooftop Bar. We might even check out Jungle Boss Pub and Restaurant for a nightcap. I am excited to see what new adventures await us, what other hidden treasures this incredible region holds. But for now, I'll rest and dream of the wonders we witnessed today, the day we conquered Son Doong.