Exploring the Geothermal Marvels of Kerlingarfjöll

Whispers of Glaciers and Tectonic Secrets

Today was a day of contrasts, a journey from the dramatic heights of a hidden canyon to the silent depths of a geological wonder. Jean-Pierre and I embraced the unpredictable Icelandic weather, trading sunshine for mist and relishing every moment of discovery. It's days like these that remind me why we traded our cozy Lyon apartment for a tent in the Highlands.

Our morning began, as usual, with a hearty breakfast at Ásgarður in Kerlingarfjöll. The restaurant is open from 7:00 to 22:00, offering a variety of options from coffee and waffles to bistro comfort food, ensuring there's something for every appetite. Waffles and coffee are the perfect fuel for a day of adventure! After breakfast, we packed our gear and set off for Múlagljúfur Canyon. The drive itself was an experience, the landscape transforming with every turn. The air was crisp, carrying the scent of damp earth and distant snow. October in Kerlingarfjöll is definitely chilly, the average temperature hovering around 32°F, so we bundled up in our warmest layers.


Experience breathtaking landscapes and cozy accommodations at Ásgarður in Kerlingarfjöll – an unforgettable Icelandic getaway.

Múlagljúfur Canyon: A Symphony of Water and Stone

The drive from Kerlingarfjöll to Múlagljúfur Canyon was around 4 hours and 30 minutes. Finding the trailhead was a mini-adventure in itself. It’s located off the Ring Road, and as many have noted, the turn isn’t clearly marked. Luckily, Jean-Pierre's navigation skills, honed from years of finding the best cycling routes in the Alps, led us unerringly to the bumpy gravel road that would take us to the canyon.
The hike began with a gentle climb through a landscape that felt both ancient and untouched. The autumn colors were muted, a tapestry of browns and greys punctuated by the occasional splash of crimson. Múlagljúfur was simply a must do hike when in the area around the Glacier Lagoon in South East Iceland. According to locals, the canyon had been relatively unknown until recent years. The trail was narrow in places, with overgrown bushes and loose rocks underfoot. The weather was misty, but the views were still incredible, with glaciers looming in the distance. The place is covered in green moss and overgrown bushes, brimming with various types of wild flora and fauna, and has narrow tracks comprised mainly of gravel.
As we climbed higher, the sound of rushing water grew louder. Soon, we were rewarded with our first glimpse of Hangandifoss, one of the canyon's hidden waterfalls. It cascaded down the cliffs, a ribbon of white against the dark rock. We continued to the main viewpoint. The canyon narrowed dramatically, the cliffs rising almost vertically on either side. Another waterfall, Múlafoss, plunged into the depths below. I felt a sense of awe, standing there surrounded by such raw, untamed beauty.

Sometimes, the most breathtaking places are those that remain hidden, waiting to be discovered.

We spent a long time at the top, just soaking in the view. The mountains and the glacier felt so close. I tried to capture the scene with my camera, but no photo could truly do it justice. It was a moment to be experienced, not just recorded. The hike all the way to the top and back is about 6.4km/4mi. The elevation is about 440m/1440ft (if you go all the way to the top).
The descent was easier, and we made good time, chatting about everything and nothing. It’s moments like these, sharing the beauty of the world with Jean-Pierre, that make these adventures so special. We were both starving after the hike, so we grabbed a quick lunch back at Ásgarður before setting off for our next destination: Thingvellir National Park.

Thingvellir's Hidden Crevasse: A Journey to the Heart of the Earth

The drive from Kerlingarfjöll to Þingvellir National Park was around 2 hours and 45 minutes. The landscape shifted again, from the rugged highlands to the more gentle terrain of the park. Thingvellir holds a special place in Icelandic history and geology. It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and I was eager to explore its wonders.
Our destination was the Hidden Crevasse, a geological formation created by the movement of the tectonic plates. We parked near the visitor center and followed the signs south along the main walking path towards the Silfra fissure. The park was quite busy, but the atmosphere was festive.
As we approached the crevasse, I could feel the cool breeze and hear the sounds of nature echoing through the canyon. The contrasting colors of the rocks and the greenery surrounding the crevasse created a stunning visual tapestry. The crevasse itself was narrow, a deep fissure in the earth that revealed layers of rock and history. It was also very deep. Visitors can traverse along the edges of the crevasse, offering thrilling views into the depths below, and capturing incredible photographs that showcase the stark beauty of the Icelandic landscape.
We walked along the edge of the crevasse, peering into its depths. The water was crystal clear, and I could see the rocks far below. It was a humbling experience, a reminder of the powerful forces that shape our planet. We spent some time exploring the surrounding area, learning about the park's history and geology. Thingvellir Park is not only a UNESCO World Heritage Site but also a place of significant cultural importance. The park is also the site of the Althing, one of the world's oldest parliaments.
By late afternoon, we were both tired but exhilarated. We made our way back to Kerlingarfjöll, stopping to admire the sunset along the way. Back at Ásgarður, we enjoyed a well-deserved dinner and a drink at the bar. The lounge, located above the restaurant, combines communal togetherness with captivating views of Kerlingarfjöll. I had a local beer, Úlfur Nr. 3 by Borg Brugghús. Jean-Pierre, as always, opted for a glass of wine.
Tonight, as I write this, the wind is howling outside our tent, and the rain is pattering on the canvas. But inside, we're warm and content, filled with the memories of a day well spent. Tomorrow, we're planning to explore Ásgarður and Panorama Ridge, hoping for clear skies and more breathtaking views. I’m also hoping to visit the Highland Base shop for a souvenir. But whatever the day brings, I know it will be another adventure in this extraordinary land. I think I’ll need to pick up that portable phone charger I forgot to pack!