Exploring the Geothermal Marvels of Kerlingarfjöll

Subterranean Wonders of Iceland

Today was all about embracing my inner explorer and venturing into the depths of Iceland's volcanic past. Jean-Pierre and I set out to discover the secrets hidden beneath the surface, and what we found was nothing short of extraordinary. It's amazing how much history and natural beauty can be concealed just a few feet under our feet.

Our day began, as usual, with a hearty breakfast at Ásgarður (Kerlingarfjöll). Fuelled up and ready for adventure, our first stop was Surtshellir, one of Iceland's largest and most famous lava caves. The drive there was stunning, even with the October chill in the air. I layered up my warm clothes, thankful for my Massachusetts roots that prepared me for this kind of weather, though Lyon has certainly helped me adapt even more. The forecast for today in Kerlingarfjöll was wet, with temperatures hovering around freezing.


Explore the breathtaking Surtshellir Cave in Iceland, a stunning lava tube filled with fascinating rock formations and geological history.

Surtshellir is located in the Hallmundarhraun lava field. This cave is named after the fire giant Surtr from Norse mythology. Reaching the cave involved a bit of a trek across the rugged lava field, which only added to the sense of adventure. Surtshellir is the longest lava tube in Iceland, stretching almost 2 kilometers. Unlike some of the more tourist-friendly caves, Surtshellir is completely natural, with no artificial lights or walkways. This meant we had to be well-prepared with helmets and headlamps. I felt a thrill as we descended into the darkness, the beams of our headlamps cutting through the gloom.

Inside, the cave was a labyrinth of tunnels and chambers, with walls of basalt and magma. In the deepest part of Surtshellir, known as the Ice Cave, we saw unusual ice formations and columns.

The best view comes after the hardest climb.

Exploring Surtshellir felt like stepping back in time. It's incredible to think that outlaws and bandits once used this cave as a hideout, stealing livestock from local farmers. According to cave scientists, Surtshellir is the first known lava tube in the world.

After Surtshellir, we drove to The Cave Vidgelmir, another impressive lava cave nearby. Víðgelmir is known for its stunning colors and rock formations. It's one of the largest lava caves in the world. Thankfully, Víðgelmir is a bit more accessible, with paved walkways and lighting, making the exploration a little easier. The cave was formed around 900 years ago, during a massive volcanic eruption.


Explore the breathtaking beauty of Vidgelmir Cave, Iceland's largest lava tunnel, and uncover the wonders beneath the surface of this volcanic landscape.

As we ventured deeper, the cave opened up into vast chambers adorned with stalactites and stalagmites. The mineral deposits on the walls created a mesmerizing display of colors – ruby, turquoise, amber, and magenta. It felt like being in an otherworldly cathedral, the silence broken only by the occasional drip of water. Jean-Pierre, with his engineering mind, was fascinated by the geological processes that shaped the cave. I, on the other hand, was captivated by the sheer beauty and the sense of wonder it evoked.

One of the highlights of Víðgelmir was when our guide turned off all the lights, plunging us into complete darkness. It was a profound and slightly haunting experience, a reminder of how much we rely on light in our modern lives. After emerging from the depths of Víðgelmir, we grabbed a quick lunch at Ásgarður (Kerlingarfjöll), reminiscing about the incredible sights we had just witnessed.

Before heading back to camp, we made a stop at Rammagerdin Iceland Giftstore. I love browsing local shops, and Rammagerdin is known for its unique and authentic Icelandic crafts. The store was founded in 1940 as a framing workshop. I was on the lookout for a special something to bring back home, a memento of our Icelandic adventure. Jean-Pierre found a beautiful hand-knitted wool scarf, perfect for the Lyon winters, while I couldn't resist a small piece of lava jewelry. It was a lovely way to support local artisans and find something truly unique.


Discover the essence of Iceland at Rammagerdin, a gift shop featuring authentic souvenirs, home goods, and local crafts that capture the spirit of the island.

Back at Ásgarður (Kerlingarfjöll) for dinner, we enjoyed another delicious meal, reflecting on the day's adventures. As I journaled about our subterranean explorations, I realized how much these experiences enrich our lives. It's not just about seeing new places, but about connecting with the earth and understanding the forces that have shaped it. Tomorrow, we are planning to explore Mulagljufur Canyon and the Hidden Crevasse in Thingvellir Park. I’m excited to see what other wonders Iceland has in store for us. For now, it’s time to rest and recharge, ready for another day of discovery.

Our camping spot is cozy, and the thought of another day exploring this stunning country fills me with excitement. I'm so glad Jean-Pierre and I decided to embark on this adventure together. It's moments like these that strengthen our bond and create memories that will last a lifetime.