A Solo Cultural Journey through Kyoto's Timeless Charm

Whispers of Ancient Kyoto

Today, I embarked on a journey through Kyoto's spiritual and natural landscapes, seeking moments of reflection and connection. It was a day filled with vibrant colors, serene gardens, and the echoes of centuries past. From the thousands of vermilion gates at Fushimi Inari Shrine to the tranquil gardens of Tōfuku-ji and the blossoming beauty of Kyoto Botanical Gardens, every step was a sensory delight.

My day began with an early start to beat the crowds at the iconic Fushimi Inari Shrine. As someone who grew up surrounded by the cultural richness of the UAE, I always appreciate seeing how different cultures express their spirituality. The train ride there was smooth, a gentle prelude to the sensory feast that awaited me. Stepping off at Inari Station, I was immediately greeted by the imposing vermilion gates that mark the entrance to the shrine. The air was crisp, carrying the scent of cedar and a hint of incense.

Fushimi Inari is dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice and prosperity, and is famed for its thousands of vibrant red torii gates winding up the mountainside. The history of the shrine dates back to the 8th century. As I walked through the seemingly endless tunnel of torii, each donated by businesses seeking good fortune, I felt a sense of awe and reverence. The sunlight filtering through the gates created a mesmerizing play of light and shadow, making the experience feel almost dreamlike.

I decided to hike to the summit of Mount Inari, a journey that took me about two hours. Along the way, I passed numerous smaller shrines, each with its own unique charm and history. Statues of foxes, the messengers of Inari, were everywhere, some adorned with red bibs. I paused frequently to catch my breath and admire the panoramic views of Kyoto stretching out below. The higher I climbed, the fewer people I encountered, and the more profound the sense of tranquility became. I even tried some Inari sushi, rice stuffed into pockets of aburaage (deep-fried tofu), a local specialty said to be a favorite of the foxes. It was a delicious and much-needed energy boost.

The journey through Kyoto's sacred spaces is not just a visual experience, but a spiritual one, inviting introspection and a deeper connection with the world around us.

After descending from Mount Inari, I made my way to Tōfuku-ji Temple, another of Kyoto's historical treasures. Founded in 1236, Tōfuku-ji is one of Kyoto's Five Great Zen Temples and is known for its stunning gardens and impressive architecture. The temple's name is a combination of the names of two great temples in Nara, Todaiji and Kofukuji, reflecting the founders' aspirations for its grandeur.

The gardens at Tōfuku-ji were a revelation. Designed in the late 1930s by Mirei Shigemori, they represent a modern take on traditional Zen gardens. The Hojo Garden, surrounding the head priest's former living quarters, is particularly striking, with its checkerboard patterns of moss and stones. I was fascinated by the way Shigemori incorporated recycled materials, such as the cylindrical foundation stones from the temple's old outhouse, into his designs. The East Garden, with its pillars arranged in the shape of the Big Dipper constellation, was especially captivating. I spent a long time simply sitting on the veranda, contemplating the serene beauty of the gardens.

One of the highlights of Tōfuku-ji is the Tsūten-kyō Bridge, a covered walkway that spans a valley filled with maple trees. Although it's early March, and the vibrant autumn colors are long gone, I could still imagine the breathtaking sight it must be in the fall. The bridge offers stunning views of the surrounding landscape and is a popular spot for photographers. I wandered through the temple grounds, admiring the massive Sanmon Gate, the oldest Zen gate of its kind in Japan, dating back to 1425. The sheer scale and history of the structure were awe-inspiring.

My final stop of the day was the Kyoto Botanical Gardens. Established in 1924, it's the oldest public botanical garden in Japan. By this time, my feet were starting to ache, but I was eager to see what the gardens had to offer. As it's early March, I wasn't expecting a riot of colors, but I was pleasantly surprised by the variety of plants and flowers on display. I learned that Kyoto in March heralds the early blooms of Sakura blossoms! The gardens boast 12,000 varieties of plants and 200 types of Sakura. While I was a little early for the peak cherry blossom season, there were still plenty of beautiful blooms to admire. The Sakura Forest, with its 500 cherry trees, was particularly enchanting. I strolled through the gardens, enjoying the peaceful atmosphere and the fresh, clean air.

I visited the conservatory, a large greenhouse filled with tropical and subtropical plants. It was a welcome escape from the cool March air, and I enjoyed wandering through the different sections, admiring the exotic flowers and lush greenery. I also appreciated the traditional Japanese garden within the botanical gardens, with its meticulously manicured landscapes and serene ponds.

Before heading back to the hotel, I decided to treat myself to a special dinner at Kikunoi Roan. I'd heard so much about this two-Michelin-starred restaurant, the sister establishment to the famed Kikunoi Honten, and I was eager to experience its refined Kyoto cuisine. I managed to get a reservation at the counter, which I was particularly excited about, as it offered a front-row seat to the chefs' culinary artistry.

The meal was an exquisite kaiseki experience, a multi-course feast that showcased the seasonal flavors of Kyoto. From the delicate appetizers to the perfectly grilled fish and the artfully arranged desserts, every dish was a work of art. I savored each bite, appreciating the skill and precision that went into creating such a memorable meal. The chefs were incredibly attentive and explained each dish in detail, enhancing the dining experience. I began with a sake aperitif, infused with cherry blossom leaf. The Tai milt tofu with ponzu jelly was a fresh mouthful that was enhanced by the tart sweetness of the ponzu. The Hassun course was a beautifully presented dish of various seasonal seafood and vegetables, accented by the last of the cherry blossoms. The meal ended with a chilled basil seed soup with almond jelly topped by two fragrant strawberries.

After dinner, I decided to explore Kyoto's nightlife a little. I ventured to L'Escamoteur, a cocktail bar known for its magical ambiance and creative drinks. It’s tucked away in an attic of a narrow brick building. The bar is owned by Christophe, who is both a bartender and magician. I ordered one of their signature cocktails, a concoction of shiso, mezcal, and matcha yuzu, and watched in amazement as the bartender performed a magic trick while preparing my drink. The atmosphere was lively and fun, and I enjoyed chatting with the other patrons and the friendly staff. It was the perfect end to a day filled with cultural immersion and natural beauty.

As I walked back to the Mitsui Garden Hotel Kyoto Kawaramachi Jokyoji, I reflected on the day's experiences. I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to explore Kyoto's sacred spaces and to connect with its rich cultural heritage. I'm already looking forward to tomorrow, when I plan to visit Arashiyama, Tenryu-ji Temple, and the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. I’m hoping to find some unique souvenirs at the Kyoto Crafts Store, too. I’m sure it will be another day filled with unforgettable moments.

Back at the hotel, I journaled about my day. Hans and Aisha would have loved today, I thought, especially the Botanical Gardens. I made a note to bring them back someday. For now, though, I’m enjoying this solo journey and the opportunity to immerse myself fully in the beauty and culture of Kyoto. I wonder what tomorrow will bring?