Enchanting Yakushima: A Journey into Japan's Ancient Forests

Whispers of the Ancient Forest

Today, David and I embarked on a pilgrimage into the heart of Yakushima's ancient cedar forests. It was a day filled with awe-inspiring sights, challenging trails, and a profound sense of connection to the natural world. The destination? The venerable Jōmon Sugi, a cedar tree estimated to be thousands of years old, a living testament to the passage of time.


Discover the ancient beauty of Jōmon Sugi, Japan's oldest cedar tree, nestled in the lush landscapes of Yakushima's UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Our day began early, fueled by excitement and a quick breakfast at Yakushima Furusato Market Island Megumi Kan. It was bustling with locals and fellow hikers grabbing last-minute supplies. I savored a simple but satisfying traditional Japanese breakfast set, while David opted for a hearty bowl of rice with grilled fish. We stocked up on some local snacks, including *tankan* candies, for the trail and headed out, eager to start our adventure.


Discover Yakushima's culinary treasures and unique souvenirs at Furusato Market Island Megumi Kan - where local flavors meet island charm.
The journey to the Jōmon Sugi trailhead required a bus ride from the Yakusugi Museum, a necessary measure to protect the delicate ecosystem. The bus was packed with fellow adventurers, a mix of Japanese and international tourists, all buzzing with anticipation. The winding mountain road offered glimpses of the island's stunning scenery, lush forests, and cascading waterfalls.

Arriving at the Arakawa trailhead, we joined the throng of hikers eager to begin the trek. The initial part of the trail followed an old railway line, a relic from the island's logging past. It was relatively flat and easy, allowing us to warm up our muscles and soak in the surrounding scenery. The rhythmic sound of our hiking boots on the wooden planks was a constant reminder of the journey ahead.

In the heart of Yakushima's ancient forest, time seems to slow down, allowing you to connect with nature in a way you never thought possible.

As we ventured deeper into the forest, the trail gradually transitioned into a more challenging mountain path. We passed by the remains of Kosugidani, an abandoned logging village, a poignant reminder of the island's industrial history and the eventual shift towards conservation. The forest grew denser, the air cooler and crisper, and the sounds of civilization faded away, replaced by the symphony of nature.

The ascent was physically demanding, with steep inclines and uneven terrain. I was grateful for my trusty hiking boots and trekking poles, which provided much-needed support and stability. David, ever the history enthusiast, kept me entertained with stories of Yakushima's past, its unique ecosystem, and the efforts to protect its natural heritage.

Along the way, we encountered other remarkable trees, each with its own unique character and story to tell. The Okina Sugi, a fallen giant estimated to be around 2,000 years old, lay in repose, its massive trunk a testament to the power and longevity of nature. Wilson's Stump, the remains of a tree felled centuries ago, offered a glimpse into the island's logging history and the sheer scale of these ancient cedars.

Finally, after hours of trekking, we reached our destination: the Jōmon Sugi. Standing on the viewing platform, I was struck by the sheer size and presence of this ancient tree. Its gnarled branches reached towards the sky, its massive trunk a tapestry of textures and colors, a testament to the countless seasons it had weathered. It was a truly humbling experience, a reminder of the insignificance of our own lives in the face of such enduring natural beauty.

We spent some time simply admiring the Jōmon Sugi, soaking in its energy and reflecting on the journey. It was a moment of profound connection, a sense of belonging to something larger than ourselves. I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to witness such a remarkable natural wonder.

The descent was equally challenging, but the knowledge that we had accomplished our goal spurred us onward. We took our time, savoring the last moments in the ancient forest, breathing in the fresh air, and listening to the sounds of nature. The forest seemed to whisper secrets of the past. I made sure to take plenty of photos to remember the day.

Back in town, we were famished! We rewarded ourselves with a delicious dinner at Wakadaisho. The fresh seafood was a delight! David enjoyed raw venison, while I opted for a fish sashimi platter and tofu from Nagata factory. The staff were friendly and welcoming, and the atmosphere was lively and cheerful. It was the perfect way to end a long and rewarding day.


Experience authentic sushi crafted with fresh local ingredients in the heart of Yakushima's natural beauty.
Before heading back to our ryokan, we stopped by Fisherman's Bar NINA for a nightcap. The bar had a cozy and intimate atmosphere, and the bartender served up some delicious local shochu. It was a great way to unwind and reflect on the day's adventures. The artwork on the door was quite something!


Experience the freshest seafood in Yakushima at Fisherman's Bar NINA, where culinary excellence meets stunning ocean views.
As I sit here now, writing in my travel journal, I can't help but feel a sense of accomplishment and gratitude. Today was a challenging but ultimately rewarding experience. The hike to Jōmon Sugi was more than just a physical feat; it was a journey into the heart of nature, a connection to the past, and a reminder of the enduring power of the natural world. I am also reminded that I forgot to pack insect repellent!

Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Yakushima Sea Turtle Hall and Inakahama Beach. I am excited to learn more about these fascinating creatures and to spend some time relaxing on the beach. I am also looking forward to visiting Pukaridō, a local shop, to pick up some souvenirs for our loved ones back home. I can't wait to see what other wonders Yakushima has in store for us.

Yakushima has me captivated, and I know I will be thinking of this trip for many years to come.