Enchanting Yakushima: A Journey into Japan's Ancient Forests

Enchanted by Emerald: A Day in Yakushima's Ancient Forests

Today, on the second day of our Yakushima adventure, David and I ventured deeper into the island's embrace, seeking out the legendary Shiratani Unsui Gorge and the iconic Wilson's Stump. The promise of ancient cedar forests and moss-draped landscapes had us eager to lace up our hiking boots and immerse ourselves in the heart of this UNESCO World Heritage site. It was a day filled with the whispers of the ancients, the symphony of nature, and the comforting rhythm of our footsteps on the forest floor.


Explore the lush beauty of Shiratani Unsui Gorge, a scenic gem in Yakushima, featuring ancient cedar forests and stunning hiking trails.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Aqua Cafe. The cafe was stylish, with a bright atmosphere. I enjoyed a Sakura shrimp pasta, while David had a hamburger. Fortified, we set off for Shiratani Unsui Gorge. The drive itself was scenic, winding through lush greenery with glimpses of the coastline. We were grateful for our rain gear, as the forecast predicted showers throughout the day, typical for Yakushima in June. As we drove, I was reminded of Tai Chi in the park back in Stratford, which requires the same kind of focus and balance that hiking sometimes does.

Arriving at the entrance to Shiratani Unsui Gorge, we were immediately transported to another world. The air was thick with the scent of cedar and damp earth, and the sunlight filtered through the canopy, casting an ethereal glow on the moss-covered stones. The gorge is renowned for inspiring the Studio Ghibli film *Princess Mononoke*, and it was easy to see why. Every corner seemed to hold a secret, every tree a story.

We chose the Taikoiwa Rock Round Trip Course, a trail that promised panoramic views and a deeper immersion into the forest's heart. The path was well-maintained at first, with concrete and wooden footbridges making the initial ascent easy. As we ventured further, the trail became more challenging, winding uphill over exposed roots and slippery rocks. It was a good thing we packed our hiking boots. I was glad I'd remembered to pack them, unlike my portable phone charger, which I seemed to have left at home.

The forest was alive with the sound of rushing water, as crystal-clear streams cascaded over mossy rocks. The vibrant green of the moss was unlike anything I had ever seen. It blanketed every surface, softening the edges of the rocks and trees, creating a velvety texture that was both inviting and otherworldly. We paused frequently to take photos, trying to capture the essence of this magical place, but no image could truly do it justice.

In the heart of Yakushima, nature unveils its masterpiece, inviting you to lose yourself in its timeless embrace.

As we hiked, I couldn't help but reflect on the importance of preserving such natural wonders. Yakushima's ancient forests have stood for millennia, witnessing the rise and fall of civilizations. It is our responsibility to protect them for future generations. This reminds me of my passion for sustainable tourism, and how crucial it is for travellers to be mindful of their impact on the environment.

After a couple of hours of hiking, we arrived at Wilson's Stump. This giant cedar stump is a testament to the island's logging history. The tree, estimated to be over 3,000 years old, was felled in the 16th century to build a temple in Kyoto. What remains is a massive hollow, large enough to accommodate several people. We ventured inside and looked up, discovering the famous heart-shaped opening created by the angle of the cut. It was a humbling experience, standing within the remains of such an ancient being.


Explore the breathtaking Wilson's Stump in Yakushima, a natural wonder showcasing the island's rich biodiversity and stunning landscapes.

The history of Wilson's Stump is fascinating. It's named after Ernest Henry Wilson, a British botanist who documented the stump in the early 20th century. Wilson was a keen advocate for the conservation of Yakushima's forests, recognizing their unique ecological value. He claimed that he had not seen such a magnificent forest before, not even after his many extensive adventures throughout China. His work helped to raise awareness of the island's natural beauty and contributed to its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is thought to have been felled around 400 years ago for the construction of Hokoji Temple in Kyoto by order of the warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Inside is a large hollow space with natural spring water rising from the ground and a small shrine. If you look toward the sky at a certain angle, the stump appears to be heart shaped.

Leaving Wilson's Stump, we continued our hike, eventually reaching a clearing that offered panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. The clouds swirled around the peaks, creating a dramatic backdrop for the lush green valleys below. We sat for a while, soaking in the scenery and enjoying the peace and quiet of the forest. It was a moment of pure serenity, a reminder of the healing power of nature. I took several photos, hoping to capture the breathtaking scenery.

As the afternoon wore on, we began our descent, retracing our steps along the mossy trail. The forest took on a different character in the fading light, the shadows lengthening and the colors deepening. We passed other hikers along the way, exchanging smiles and nods of acknowledgement. There were some challenging parts of the trail, requiring caution with its irregular rocks and roots to cross. I found myself giving David a hand in the trickier sections.

Back in town, our appetites were calling, and we decided to try Il Mare for lunch. This restaurant specializes in Italian cuisine with a local twist, using fresh seafood and local venison in their dishes. We shared a pizza with shiitake mushrooms and local vegetables, and it was absolutely delicious. The crust was fluffy and light, and the toppings were bursting with flavor. It was the perfect way to refuel after our long hike. The owner was very considerate and says he's mostly self taught.


Discover Il Mare in Yakushima for an unforgettable Italian dining experience amidst stunning natural beauty.

For dinner, we chose Smiley, a charming cafe located by the Anbo river mouth. The cafe had a cozy atmosphere, with wooden furniture and a view of the harbor. I ordered the Smiley original latte, while David opted for a sandwich. We also indulged in some of their homemade cakes, which were simply divine. The staff were friendly and welcoming, and we enjoyed chatting with them about our adventures on the island. Smiley is a charming and cozy café located by the Anbo river mouth, offering a comfortable atmosphere with wooden furniture and a pleasant view of the breakwater. The café serves delicious coffee, delectable desserts, and light lunch options at reasonable prices. Guests can also purchase local souvenirs here.


Discover the cozy Smiley Café in Yakushima – where exceptional coffee meets delicious cakes and sandwiches in a warm atmosphere.

Before heading back to our ryokan, we made a quick stop at Yakushima Gelato Sora-Umi. I had heard about their unique flavors, including cedar ice cream, and I was eager to try them. I opted for the tankan orange and guava gelato, which was refreshing and flavorful. David chose the banana and salt milk flavors, which were equally delicious. It was the perfect ending to a perfect day. The store is quite spacious and modern looking, and prices were very reasonable. They do have limited hours and days, so take note on that.


Experience the sweet flavors of Yakushima Gelato Sora-Umi, where artisanal gelato meets the island's breathtaking beauty and warm hospitality.

As we reflect on today's adventures, we are already looking forward to tomorrow, when we plan to hike to Jōmon Sugi, the island's oldest and most famous cedar tree. We'll start our day with breakfast at Yakushima Furusato Market Island Megumi Kan, followed by a packed lunch from Hachiman to enjoy on the trail. And to celebrate another successful day of hiking, we're planning to visit Fisherman's Bar NINA in the evening.

Yakushima continues to enchant us with its natural beauty and rich history. Each day brings new discoveries and unforgettable experiences. I feel grateful for the opportunity to explore this magical island with David, and I look forward to sharing more of our adventures with you.

As I close my travel journal for the night, I am filled with a sense of peace and contentment. The memories of the ancient forests, the heart-shaped stump, and the delicious local flavors will stay with me long after we leave this enchanting island. I encourage anyone seeking a rejuvenating escape into nature to add Yakushima to their travel list. You won't be disappointed.