Enchanting Yakushima: A Journey into Japan's Ancient Forests

Guardians of the Forest

Today, David and I ventured deeper into the heart of Yakushima, a day that felt like stepping into a realm guarded by ancient spirits. The air was thick with the scent of cedar and damp earth, a perfume that spoke of centuries of undisturbed growth and silent observation. As a translator, I often find myself interpreting words, but here, nature spoke a language that needed no translation, only reverence.

Our day began with a traditional Japanese breakfast at Matsutake. The restaurant was a cozy, family-run establishment known for its soba and udon noodles. It felt like stepping back in time as we sat at low tables in the old traditional Japanese building, surrounded by a picturesque garden. I savored every bite of the warm noodles and delicate tempura, feeling grateful for the simple pleasures in life. David, ever the history enthusiast, admired the architecture and commented on the sense of peace that permeated the place.


Discover authentic soba noodles at Matsutake in Yakushima – where tradition meets flavor amidst stunning natural beauty.

Fueled and ready, we set off to explore Yakushima National Park. The park itself is a vast expanse of natural beauty, a UNESCO World Heritage site that protects some of Japan's oldest and most magnificent cedar trees. The scale of the trees is simply breathtaking; they tower above you like silent sentinels, their gnarled branches reaching towards the sky. The park is more than just trees; it's an entire ecosystem teeming with life. We saw playful Yakushima macaques swinging through the branches and tiny, vibrant birds flitting among the leaves.


Explore the ancient forests and breathtaking landscapes of Yakushima National Park, a jewel of Japan's natural heritage and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

In the heart of Yakushima's ancient forests, time seems to slow, allowing a deep connection with nature's enduring spirit.

Our main destination within the park was the Kigensugi Cedar, a tree estimated to be around 3,000 years old. Reaching it was an easy walk, thankfully, as it's accessible by road. Standing before it, I felt an overwhelming sense of humility. This tree had witnessed countless seasons, survived storms and thrived through centuries of change. It was a living testament to the enduring power of nature.


Explore the iconic Kigensugi Cedar in Yakushima, a 1,000-year-old natural marvel surrounded by stunning hiking trails and rich biodiversity.

I thought about my own journey, from the bustling streets of Sai Kung to the quiet life in Stratford, Canada. Life has changed so much since I left Hong Kong, but the peace I felt standing next to the Kigensugi was a feeling I recognized. It was a grounding, centering feeling. It was the feeling of home.

For lunch, we stopped at Smiley, a cozy café overlooking the harbor of Anbo. The cafe was adorable, and the coffee was delicious. I enjoyed a light sandwich while David opted for a slice of cake. As we ate, we watched the boats bobbing in the harbor and chatted about our morning. It was a simple meal, but the view and the company made it special. We even picked up a few local souvenirs, small reminders of our time in Yakushima.


Discover the cozy Smiley Café in Yakushima – where exceptional coffee meets delicious cakes and sandwiches in a warm atmosphere.

After lunch, before dinner, we decided to visit Gallery KIANU, a local shop and gallery that features art and crafts from Yakushima. I was excited to see the work of local artisans and perhaps find a unique piece to bring home. The gallery was located in the Miyanoura Ferry Terminal, which made it easy to find. The shop was beautiful, with a wide array of pottery, textiles, and other handcrafted items. I was particularly drawn to the pottery, which was made from local clay and fired in traditional kilns. I ended up buying a small teacup with a delicate floral design. David chose a hand-painted scarf for Emily; he said the colors reminded him of her.


Explore Gallery KIANU in Yakushima: A treasure trove of local pottery and unique artisanal crafts awaits you.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Hachiman for dinner. Hachiman is an izakaya, a traditional Japanese pub, known for its local seafood and warm hospitality. The atmosphere was lively, with locals chatting and laughing over drinks. We ordered a selection of dishes, including fresh sashimi, grilled fish, and fried chicken skewers. The food was delicious, and the service was friendly and attentive. David even tried his hand at karaoke, butchering his favorite anime OP in front of a bunch of Japanese people. He had a blast, and the locals seemed to enjoy his enthusiasm.


Discover the flavors of Japan at Hachiman in Yakushima - an authentic izakaya experience awaits with delicious dishes and local drinks.

I savored the flavors of the island, each dish telling a story of the sea and the land. As I translated the menu for David, I felt a deep appreciation for the local culture and the connection between food and community. This evening, surrounded by the warmth of Hachiman, I felt a sense of belonging. It was a reminder that home is not just a place, but a feeling.

As we walked back to our ryokan under a canopy of stars, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the experiences of the day. Yakushima had touched my soul in a way I hadn't expected. The ancient trees, the vibrant culture, and the warm hospitality had created a tapestry of memories that I would cherish forever. I am looking forward to tomorrow, when we plan to visit Ryujin Falls and the Yakushima Environmental and Cultural Village Center. Before heading back to the ryokan, we plan to stop by Cafe&Bar RainTree, and I'm looking forward to trying some local spirits.

The rain gear, thankfully, wasn't needed today, but I did realize I'd forgotten my insect repellent. Note to self: buy some tomorrow! I am also wishing I had brought my portable phone charger today. The camera and journal were essential, of course. As I drifted off to sleep, I couldn't help but smile, thinking about the adventures that awaited us in the days to come.