Exploring the Enchanting Villages of Cinque Terre

Monterosso's Embrace: Giants, Faith, and Seaside Charm

Today was all about embracing the largest of the Cinque Terre villages: Monterosso al Mare. It's a place where history, art, and the Ligurian Sea converge in a captivating blend. Hans and I set out to explore its iconic landmarks, savor its local flavors, and soak in the unique atmosphere that makes Monterosso so special.


Experience the breathtaking beauty and rich culture of Monterosso al Mare, a captivating coastal village in Italy's stunning Cinque Terre.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at La Taverna di Monterosso. The aroma of freshly baked focaccia and strong Italian coffee filled the air, instantly awakening our senses. I opted for a simple yet satisfying *focaccia con pesto*, while Hans, ever the traditionalist, chose a *cappuccino* and a slice of *torta della nonna*. It was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploration.


Experience authentic Italian flavors at La Taverna di Monterosso – where every dish tells a story from the heart of Cinque Terre.

With renewed energy, our first stop was the famed Statua del Gigante, or the Statue of the Giant. As we approached Fegina beach, the imposing figure of Neptune emerged from the rocks. Even in its partially damaged state – missing arms, trident, and seashell – the statue exuded a sense of power and history. I couldn't help but imagine its former glory, standing tall as a symbol of Monterosso's connection to the sea.


Discover the enchanting Statua del Gigante in Monterosso al Mare, a monumental tribute to Neptune with stunning coastal views.

The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever.

Hans, ever the history buff, shared the story of its creation in 1910 by Arrigo Minerbi and Francesco Levacher, commissioned by Giovanni and Juanita Pastine, wealthy locals who had returned from Argentina. It was meant to adorn their villa, Villa Pastine. We learned that the villa and the statue suffered severe damage during World War II, and a storm in 1966 further weakened the structure. It's a poignant reminder of the passage of time and the relentless forces of nature.

Standing there, gazing at the Ligurian Sea, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe and respect for the statue's resilience. Despite its missing pieces, it remains an iconic landmark, a testament to Monterosso's enduring spirit. I took several photos, trying to capture its essence from every angle, while Hans sketched the scene in his notebook, adding his own artistic touch to the experience.

From the beach, we started our ascent towards the Convent of the Capuchin Friars, perched atop the hill of San Cristoforo. The climb was steep, but the promise of panoramic views spurred us onward. As we reached the summit, the sight that greeted us was simply breathtaking: the entire coastline unfolded before us, with the colorful houses of Monterosso nestled below and the azure sea stretching out to the horizon.


Experience spiritual serenity and breathtaking views at the historic Convent of the Capuchin Friars in Monterosso al Mare, a hidden gem in Cinque Terre.

The convent itself exuded an aura of tranquility and peace. We stepped inside the Church of San Francesco, admiring the simple yet elegant architecture and the religious artworks that adorned the walls. Hans was particularly drawn to the painting of the Crucifixion, attributed to Van Dyck, while I was captivated by the serene atmosphere of the chapel. According to local sources, the convent has always been a spiritual landmark and a cultural heritage site of Monterosso. The original construction dates back to 1619 and it was renovated multiple times over the centuries.

We spent some time wandering through the convent's grounds, soaking in the silence and enjoying the stunning views. It was a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of the town below, a place to reflect and connect with something larger than ourselves. I even took out my knitting needles and yarn, finding inspiration in the peaceful surroundings to work on a new pattern inspired by the colors of Cinque Terre.

After our spiritual sojourn, it was time to indulge in another of Monterosso's delights: its culinary scene. For lunch, we had reservations at Miky, a restaurant renowned for its fresh seafood and Ligurian specialties. We shared a plate of *spaghetti alle vongole*, savoring the delicate flavors of the clams and the perfectly cooked pasta. The restaurant's ambiance was chic and modern, with a seaside twist that perfectly complemented the food. I was particularly impressed by the pumpkin soup, which was presented as a work of art and tasted fantastic. Hans enjoyed the fried calamari, which he described as super fresh and lightly fried. We also shared the pesto pasta, a Ligurian specialty, which was excellent, although I preferred the calamari.


Experience authentic Italian cuisine at Miky in Monterosso al Mare – where fresh seafood meets breathtaking coastal views.

In the afternoon, we strolled through the town, exploring its narrow streets and colorful shops. I was particularly drawn to Fabbrica D'Arte Monterosso, a ceramic art workshop that showcased the craftsmanship of local artisans. The store was filled with unique pieces, from decorative bowls and plates to beautiful vases and tiles, all hand-painted with intricate designs inspired by the Cinque Terre landscape. We learned that Fabbrica D'Arte is more than just a shop; it's a dream of two families who want to share the stories of the Cinque Terre through terracotta, stoneware, and porcelain.


Explore the enchanting world of handcrafted ceramics at Fabbrica D'Arte Monterosso, where artistry meets the charm of Monterosso al Mare.

I couldn't resist purchasing a small ceramic bowl, adorned with a vibrant depiction of the Monterosso coastline. It will serve as a cherished reminder of our time here, a tangible connection to the beauty and artistry of this special place. Hans bought a small, hand-painted tile depicting the Statue of the Giant, a perfect memento of our morning exploration.

As the sun began to set, we made our way to Ristorante L'Ancora della Tortuga, a clifftop restaurant perched between the historic center and Fegina. The views were simply spectacular, overlooking the sea. Despite the slight chill in the air, we opted for an outdoor table, eager to savor the Ligurian sunset. We were lucky to move inside because of the rain.


Experience authentic Italian seafood at Ristorante L'Ancora della Tortuga in Monterosso al Mare, where breathtaking views meet exquisite flavors.

For dinner, we decided to splurge on the tasting menu, eager to sample the restaurant's culinary creations. Each dish was a work of art, beautifully presented and bursting with flavor. The seafood was incredibly fresh, and the pasta was cooked to perfection. I particularly enjoyed the truffle pasta, while Hans raved about the seafood platter. The restaurant is known for its gluten-free options, and the staff was incredibly helpful in accommodating our dietary preferences.

As we savored our meal, we reflected on the day's adventures. From the imposing presence of the Statua del Gigante to the serene atmosphere of the Convent of the Capuchin Friars, from the delicious flavors of Ligurian cuisine to the artistic charm of Fabbrica D'Arte Monterosso, today had been a feast for the senses, a true immersion in the beauty and culture of Cinque Terre.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore Corniglia, the only Cinque Terre village not directly adjacent to the sea. We'll climb the Scalinata Lardarina, visit the Chiesa di San Pietro, and perhaps indulge in a glass of wine at Terra Rossa wine&food winebar. I'm already looking forward to discovering the unique charm of this hilltop village.

For now, though, I'm content to savor the memories of today, the giants, the serenity, and the seaside charm of Monterosso al Mare. It's a place that has captured my heart, a place I know I'll never forget.