Exploring the Enchanting Villages of Cinque Terre

Reaching for the Sky in Corniglia

Today, Hans and I ventured into Corniglia, the only Cinque Terre village not directly on the sea. I was excited to see how this unique position would shape our experience. It promised a day of climbing, discovery, and perhaps a different perspective on the Ligurian coast.


Discover the serene beauty of Corniglia, a cliffside village in Cinque Terre, known for its stunning vistas, local cuisine, and authentic Italian charm.

Our day began, as most do on this trip, with a delightful breakfast. We found ourselves at Bar e Vini a Pié de Ma, though technically in Riomaggiore, it was a perfect spot to fuel up before our journey to Corniglia. I opted for a simple pastry and a cappuccino, while Hans enjoyed a more substantial breakfast sandwich. The views overlooking the sea were, as always, breathtaking, and it was a lovely way to start the day, watching the early morning light dance on the water.


Experience the heart of Italian culture at Bar e Vini a Pié de Ma in Riomaggiore, where exceptional wines meet breathtaking coastal views.

The train ride to Corniglia was short but sweet, offering glimpses of the rugged coastline. Arriving at the station, we were immediately faced with the challenge that makes Corniglia unique: the Scalinata Lardarina. This iconic brick staircase, with its 382 steps and 33 ramps, is the only pedestrian access to the village from the train station. I knew about the climb, of course, but seeing it stretching upwards was still a bit daunting. Hans, ever the optimist, grinned and said, Well, Mette, let's earn those views!


Discover the breathtaking Scalinata Lardarina in Corniglia, a scenic staircase that offers stunning views and a taste of Cinque Terre's charm.

And so we began our ascent. The steps weren't too steep, thankfully, and we took our time, stopping frequently to catch our breath and admire the ever-expanding panorama. I must admit, my thighs were burning, but the views were more than worth it. Each upward step revealed more of the coastline, the turquoise sea sparkling under the winter sun, and the other Cinque Terre villages nestled in the distance. I even managed to snap a few photos, trying to capture the essence of this unique approach to Corniglia. It's a climb that truly makes you appreciate the village's secluded charm. I also got a bit of knitting inspiration from the rhythm of the climb.

It is not the destination that matters, but the journey.

Finally, panting but triumphant, we reached the top of the Scalinata Lardarina and entered Corniglia. The village is small and charming, with narrow, winding streets that invite exploration. The absence of a harbor gives it a different feel from the other villages; it feels more agricultural, surrounded by terraced vineyards that cling to the steep hillsides. We wandered through the streets, soaking in the atmosphere and admiring the colorful houses.

Our first stop was the Chiesa di San Pietro, a beautiful parish church located in the upper part of Corniglia. Built in 1334, it stands as a testament to the village's rich history. The churchyard, with its remains of polychrome cobblestones, was particularly charming. Inside, the church was simple yet elegant, with a peaceful atmosphere that invited contemplation. I found myself admiring the architecture and the sense of history that permeated the space. According to some sources, the church was built on the site of a smaller 11th-century chapel, which added to its allure. I also learned that the church had been restored, including a painting dedicated to St. John from 1618, which now perfectly integrates with the church's nave.


Discover the serene beauty and historical significance of Chiesa Di San Pietro in Corniglia, a must-visit church in the heart of Cinque Terre.

For lunch, we decided to try Trattoria La Scogliera, a place recommended for its seafood. However, upon arrival, we discovered it was closed. A bit disappointed, we decided to explore other options. Luckily, Corniglia is full of culinary gems. We stumbled upon a charming wine bar called Terra Rossa wine&food winebar. The location was perfect, with amazing views and a large selection of wines. We shared a Caprese salad and focaccia, enjoying the local wine. I learned that the owners are two very nice and friendly sisters specializing in organic wines. Hans was particularly impressed with the bruschetta, and I enjoyed the opportunity to relax and take in the stunning views.


Discover the exquisite flavors of local wines and authentic Italian cuisine at Terra Rossa Wine & Food Winebar in Corniglia.

After lunch, we continued our exploration of Corniglia, eventually finding ourselves at Terra Rossa wine&food winebar again for an aperitivo. The sunset views were simply stunning, painting the sky in hues of orange and pink. We savored local wines, reflecting on the day's adventures and enjoying the cozy atmosphere. I tried their recommended prosecco, and Hans enjoyed a craft beer.

As the evening drew closer, we chose Fuori Rotta for dinner. It was a bit of a walk, but the food was worth it. The atmosphere was cozy and the food was excellent. The service was terrific and the prices were democratic for the quality we got. We shared several dishes, savoring the flavors of Ligurian cuisine.


Experience authentic Italian cuisine with breathtaking views at Fuori Rotta in Riomaggiore's stunning coastal landscape.

Tomorrow, we're off to Portofino, a place I've heard so much about. I'm eager to see its harbor, Castello Brown, and the Faro di Portofino. I'm also looking forward to visiting Kalos Boutique - Handmade Italian Design for some shopping.

Corniglia, with its heights and hidden gems, had certainly captured a piece of my heart. It's a village that rewards those who are willing to climb, offering stunning views, a peaceful atmosphere, and a unique perspective on the Cinque Terre.

The train ride back to our accommodation was filled with the quiet contentment that comes after a day well spent. As I drifted off to sleep, I dreamt of staircases, vineyards, and the stunning beauty of the Ligurian coast.