Exploring the Enchanting Villages of Cinque Terre

Portofino's Embrace

Today, Hans and I traded the familiar trails of Cinque Terre for the sophisticated charm of Portofino. It was a day of exploration filled with history, breathtaking views, and delightful Ligurian flavors. After several days of hiking, it was nice to experience a different pace, soaking in the ambiance of a place known for its elegance and beauty.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Focacceria A pié de Campu. Although technically in Manarola, we decided to start our day with a scenic train ride back to familiar territory before venturing onward. This charming spot, recommended by several locals, was a delightful start to our day. The focaccia was warm, fragrant, and utterly delicious. I opted for one with fresh tomatoes and olives, while Hans chose a version with pesto. As we savored each bite, we discussed our plans for the day, excited about exploring Portofino's hidden gems.

Portofino is more than just a picturesque village; it's an experience that awakens the senses and soothes the soul.

With our appetites satisfied, we hopped on a train to Santa Margherita Ligure, where we caught a bus to Portofino. The ride itself was a treat, winding along the coast and offering glimpses of the turquoise sea. As we approached Portofino, the colorful buildings clustered around the harbor came into view, instantly captivating us with their beauty.

Our first stop was Castello Brown, a historic castle perched high above the harbor. The climb was a bit steep, but the views along the way were well worth the effort. We passed through lush Mediterranean gardens, filled with fragrant flowers and towering cypress trees. Reaching the castle, we stepped back in time, imagining the battles and sieges it had withstood over the centuries. The castle's origins date back to the Middle Ages, and it has been renovated and expanded by various prominent figures, including Gian Maria Oliato and Napoleon Bonaparte. It even served as a military fortress before being acquired by Sir Montague Yeats Brown, the English consul in Genoa, who transformed it into a civil residence in 1867. From its walls, we gazed out over the harbor, admiring the yachts bobbing in the water and the colorful buildings lining the shore. The views were truly breathtaking, offering a unique perspective of Portofino's beauty. I took several photos, trying to capture the essence of this enchanting place.


Discover Castello Brown, a historic castle in Portofino offering stunning views, rich heritage, and serene gardens overlooking the Mediterranean.

After exploring Castello Brown, we strolled through the charming streets of Portofino, browsing the chic boutiques and art galleries. Hans, ever the patient husband, indulged my love for window shopping, occasionally offering his opinion on a particularly striking dress or piece of jewelry. We even stopped by Kalos Boutique - Handmade Italian Design, where I admired the craftsmanship of the local artisans. Though I didn't buy anything, I appreciated the opportunity to see such beautiful, handcrafted items.

For lunch, we chose Trattoria la Lanterna, a cozy restaurant known for its traditional Ligurian cuisine. We shared a plate of freshly made pasta with pesto, savoring the flavors of basil, pine nuts, and Parmesan cheese. The pesto in Liguria is truly something special, and this dish did not disappoint. We also tried the local seafood, grilled to perfection and served with a squeeze of lemon. As we ate, we watched the boats come and go in the harbor, enjoying the lively atmosphere of Portofino.

Our next adventure was a walk to Faro di Portofino, the lighthouse located at the extreme end of the peninsula. The path to the lighthouse was a bit rugged, but the scenery was stunning. We passed through lush vegetation, with glimpses of the sea peeking through the trees. Reaching the lighthouse, we were rewarded with panoramic views of the coastline. The lighthouse itself was charming, with its white walls and red roof. We spent some time taking photos and simply enjoying the tranquility of this secluded spot. The lighthouse is generally open to visitors from 9 AM to 6 PM, but given the time of year and the weather, we were just happy to admire it from the outside.


Explore the beauty of Faro di Portofino, a historic lighthouse offering stunning views and rich maritime history in the heart of Portofino, Italy.

As the sun began to set, we made our way back to the harbor, stopping for an aperitivo at a waterfront bar. We ordered a couple of Aperol spritzes, watching as the sky transformed into a canvas of orange, pink, and purple hues. The atmosphere was magical, with the lights of the town twinkling in the distance. It was the perfect way to end our day in Portofino.

For dinner, we decided to try Rio Bistrot, drawn in by its reputation for innovative cuisine and stunning views. Though technically located back in Riomaggiore, the allure of a highly-recommended meal was too strong to resist. The restaurant did not disappoint. I opted for a seafood risotto, while Hans chose a meat dish with local herbs and spices. Each bite was an explosion of flavor, showcasing the chef's talent and creativity. The ambiance was romantic and intimate, making it a perfect ending to a perfect day.

As we reflect on our day in Portofino, we are struck by the contrast between its glamorous reputation and its authentic charm. Yes, it's a playground for the rich and famous, but it's also a place of natural beauty, rich history, and delicious food. We are grateful for the opportunity to have experienced this unique corner of Italy.

Tomorrow, we'll be venturing back towards Monterosso al Mare, with plans to hike to Punta Mesco and visit the Santuario Nostra Signora di Soviore and the Hermitage of Sant'Antonio del Mesco. I'm already looking forward to more breathtaking views and exploring the natural beauty of the region. I'm also excited to try Ristorante Via Venti for breakfast, Il Gambero Rosso Vernazza for lunch, and La Cantina Di Miky for dinner. And perhaps we'll end the day with a drink at Enoteca Da Eliseo.

“To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries.” – Aldous Huxley. It’s so true – every place has its own unique charm, and Portofino certainly proved that today. Now, it’s time for some rest before another day of Ligurian adventures!