Art and Adventure: Discovering Naoshima Island

Naoshima's Hidden Corners

Today was all about delving deeper into Naoshima, seeking out the spots that aren't always front and center on the tourist trail. Liam and I were both eager to experience a different side of the island, and it definitely delivered. It's amazing how much the atmosphere shifts when you step away from the main attractions and find yourself wandering through quiet backstreets and lush hillsides.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Akaito Coffee. The red-brick exterior and cozy interior were incredibly inviting. I opted for their Akaito Blend coffee, hand-dripped and full-bodied, paired with a warm scone. Liam went for the Setouchi Blend and a slice of their gateau chocolat. It was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploring. The café had a curated bookstore and local crafts. It's a great spot to connect with locals and travelers.


Discover Akaito Coffee on Naoshima Island, where art, literature, and the aroma of freshly brewed coffee create an unforgettable experience.

From there, we decided to tackle Danyama, the island's central mountain. The hike was a bit more challenging than we anticipated, especially with the July heat, but the views from the top were absolutely worth it. You could see the Seto Inland Sea sparkling in the distance, and the terraced rice fields looked like a patchwork quilt. Liam, ever the supportive husband, kept me motivated with sips of water and the promise of a delicious lunch. It was so quiet and peaceful up there, a world away from the bustling art installations. I took some photos, trying to capture the serene beauty of the landscape, but as always, the camera just couldn't do it justice. Sometimes, the best view comes after the hardest climb.


Experience breathtaking views and tranquility at Danyama, a must-visit observation deck in Japan's stunning Teshimaieura region.

After descending Danyama, we were ready for lunch. We stopped at Tee's DELI GROCERY, a quirky little diner known for its falafel sandwiches. Tee's was only open for lunch. The diner had a vibrant atmosphere with cool tunes playing. Liam was intrigued by Tee's vinyl collection. The falafel plate was delicious. It was a perfect blend of Japanese hospitality and culinary creativity.


Discover the flavors of Naoshima at Tee's DELI GROCERY, where great food meets artistic vibes in an unforgettable dining experience.

Next on our list was the Art House Project: Haisha. This was definitely one of the most unique and thought-provoking art experiences I've ever had. Haisha, meaning dentist, was once the home and office of a local dentist, but artist Shinro Ohtake transformed the entire building into a mind-bending work of art.


Experience the captivating blend of traditional Japanese architecture and contemporary art at Art House Project: Haisha on Naoshima Island.

The exterior was a chaotic mix of rusted tin sheets, wooden panels, and old signboards. Inside, it was even more surreal – an eclectic array of stylistic elements that felt like walking through a dream. It felt like a collage or scrapbook. The house incorporates an eclectic array of stylistic elements. The title of the work, Dreaming Tongue, represents the process of holding something in one's mouth and recalling a dream by retracing the taste and scent.

I found myself wandering through the rooms, completely captivated by the layers of history and artistry. It was a bit eerie, but also incredibly inspiring. It really made me think about the way we inhabit spaces and how those spaces, in turn, shape our memories and experiences. The Art House Project really shows how artists take empty houses and turn the spaces themselves into works of art. The Art House Project acts as a catalyst for interaction between visitors and local residents.

From the unsettling dentist's office, we sought the clean lines of the Ando Museum. Dedicated to the work of Tadao Ando, the museum itself is a stunning example of his signature style. The museum is a harmonious blend of traditional Japanese architecture and Ando's signature concrete-and-light aesthetic. The building maintains the appearance of a traditional Japanese home. Inside, visitors are greeted by a labyrinth of concrete walls. The museum opened in 2013.


Explore the Ando Museum in Naoshima, where contemporary art meets innovative architectural design amidst serene natural beauty.

It was fascinating to see how he blended traditional Japanese architecture with his modern aesthetic. The play of light and shadow was particularly striking, creating a sense of both serenity and drama. The museum encapsulates the island's ethos of bridging the old with the new. By situating a modernist masterpiece within a traditional Japanese house, the museum encapsulates the island's ethos of bridging the old with the new.

As the day wound down, we decided to try EAT LOCAL 直島食堂 for dinner. We wanted to experience the local cuisine, and this place came highly recommended. The restaurant uses local ingredients. The restaurant is a cozy and inviting eatery. I had a rice bowl topped with fresh sashimi, while Liam opted for the fried chicken set meal. We enjoyed the dishes. The whitebair rice bowl and the deco pon juice were also delicious.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at EAT LOCAL 直島食堂 on Naoshima Island, where fresh seafood meets local flavors in a cozy atmosphere.

To cap off the evening, we ventured to Chikurin, a hidden izakaya. The izakaya had a cozy atmosphere. The restaurant opens its doors in the evening, providing a perfect spot for dinner after a day of exploring Naoshima's art installations and beautiful landscapes. It was a small, intimate spot, run by one man who did everything from taking orders to cooking and serving. The sashimi and grilled fish were top notch. The intimate setting fosters a welcoming environment.


Experience the authentic flavors of Japan at Chikurin, a charming izakaya in Naoshima, renowned for its exquisite dishes and warm hospitality.

We sat at the counter, chatting with some locals and enjoying the lively atmosphere. It was a great way to unwind and reflect on the day's adventures. We sampled some local sake and tried a few of the chef's recommendations, including some incredibly fresh sashimi. It was the perfect ending to a day of art, exploration, and cultural immersion. The izakaya is a perfect spot for dinner after a day of exploring Naoshima's art installations.

Naoshima continues to surprise and delight us at every turn. Tomorrow, we're heading to Teshima , another art island in the Seto Inland Sea, and I can't wait to see what it has in store. We plan to visit Teshima 8 Million Lab and La forêt des murmures. I'm especially looking forward to visiting Miyanoura Gallery 6.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

I am also hoping to find some time to stop by Mikazukishoten, a local shop. And of course, we'll need to find some good spots for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Nagomi for breakfast, Luke's Table for lunch and Yuunagi for dinner are on the list. It's hard to believe we're already more than halfway through our trip. Time really does fly when you're surrounded by so much beauty and inspiration. I'm trying to soak up every moment and capture as many memories as possible, both with my camera and in my heart. This island has a way of getting under your skin, and I know I'll be carrying a piece of it with me long after we've left.

The Setouchi Triennale is held every three years. The Setouchi Islands are a collection of thousands of islands located within the Seto Inland Sea. Benesse Art Site Naoshima is the overall name for activities undertaken by the education and publishing company Benesse Holdings and the associated Fukutake Foundation to promote regional development through art. There are many temporary exhibits related to the festival as well as permanent works scattered around the island. A new museum designed by Ando will open in the spring of 2025.

One thing I've really come to appreciate about Naoshima is how art is integrated into every aspect of life here. It's not just confined to museums and galleries; it spills out into the streets, the houses, and even the local businesses. It's a testament to the power of art to transform a place and a community. It also helps that the climate of Setouchi is warm.

As I reflect on today's adventures, I'm filled with a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience this unique and inspiring island. It's a place that challenges you to see the world in new ways, to appreciate the beauty in the unexpected, and to connect with the stories that are woven into the fabric of a place. And as a photographer, that's exactly what I'm always searching for. The island has a rare all-female puppet theater tradition. Naoshima is located some 13 kilometers north of the city of Takamatsu in Kagawa Prefecture. The island is a mecca for lovers of contemporary art and architecture. The Chichu Art Museum was a definite highlight of our stay on Naoshima. The Benesse Art Museum is a facility that combines a hotel and an art gallery, where you can enjoy art while staying at the hotel. The Honmura Area has launched a Art House Project for artists to create and display their works by renovating old houses. Shinro Otake is the artist who designed Naoshima Bath. Even for those who know Japan well, Naoshima is refreshing, unexpected, and utterly unlike anything else you'll experience on your trip.