Art and Adventure: Discovering Naoshima Island

Day 2: Art and Introspection on Naoshima

Today was a day of deep dives into the artistic soul of Naoshima, a journey that took Liam and me through spaces designed to challenge perception and evoke introspection. The island continues to surprise and inspire, blending art, architecture, and nature in ways I've never experienced before.

Our morning began with a hearty breakfast at maimai. It's a cozy little spot, embodying the artistic spirit of Naoshima. The cafe is known for its mouthwatering hamburgers crafted with local ingredients. I savored a delightful Naoshima Burger, a local fish burger featuring fresh Hamachi (young yellowtail). Liam opted for a classic cheeseburger. Fueled up, we were ready to explore the Art House Project, starting with Minamidera.


Discover the Art House Project: Minamidera in Naoshima, where modern art meets traditional Japanese architecture in a serene setting.
Minamidera is unlike anything I’ve ever experienced. Designed by Tadao Ando to house a work by James Turrell, the building itself is a study in minimalism. Entering the space, we were guided into a pitch-black room. The instructions were simple: proceed slowly, keep a hand on the wall, and find a seat on the bench. For what felt like an eternity, there was nothing but darkness. Then, slowly, shapes began to emerge. A rectangle of light materialized, playing tricks on my eyes, challenging my understanding of space and perception. It was a profound experience, a reminder of how much we rely on sight and how easily our senses can be manipulated. I've always found solace in darkness, a place where my other senses heighten, and this was an amplified version of that. Liam, ever the pragmatist, was fascinated by the engineering and the way Ando and Turrell had collaborated to create such a disorienting yet beautiful space.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

After the intense experience at Minamidera, we needed a change of pace, and Kinosaki Udon Naoshima was just the ticket. It’s a casual, self-service udon restaurant where you can enjoy delicious and authentic udon. I opted for the Niku Udon (meat udon) and Liam chose the bukkake udon. The noodles were perfectly chewy, and the broth was rich and flavorful. It was the perfect, comforting meal to ground us after the ethereal experience at Minamidera.

Next on our list was the Lee Ufan Museum.

Explore the serene Lee Ufan Museum in Naoshima, where modern art meets nature in a harmonious blend of minimalism and tranquility.
Another Ando masterpiece, this museum is dedicated to the works of Korean contemporary artist Lee Ufan. The museum is nestled in a valley, blending seamlessly with the natural landscape. Inside, the installations are minimalist yet powerful, using stone, concrete, and steel to create a sense of stillness and dynamism. I was particularly drawn to the paintings, with their repetitive brushstrokes that seemed to echo the rhythm of quiet breathing. Liam appreciated the way the museum created a tranquil space for contemplation, a respite from the overwhelming materialism of modern society. The way the light played on the concrete walls, the starkness of the materials against the green landscape outside – it all contributed to a sense of peace and reflection.

Our final art stop for the day was the Go'o Shrine, another part of the Art House Project.

Discover the serene Art House Project: Go'o Shrine in Naoshima, where contemporary art meets traditional Shinto spirituality in a breathtaking setting.
This Shinto shrine has been restored with a modern makeover, creating a fascinating blend of tradition and contemporary art. The highlight is the optical glass staircase leading from the worship hall to an underground chamber. The staircase is meant to symbolize the unity of heaven and earth, and descending into the chamber felt like entering a sacred space. The sunlight filtering through the glass steps created an ethereal glow, adding to the sense of mystery and reverence. It was a beautiful way to end our exploration of the Art House Project, a reminder of the importance of both tradition and innovation.

For dinner, we headed to Issen, located on the ground floor of the Benesse House Museum.

Discover exquisite Japanese cuisine at Issen on Naoshima Island—where art meets culinary excellence in every bite.
This restaurant specializes in kaiseki cuisine, a multi-course Japanese dining experience that emphasizes seasonal ingredients and meticulous presentation. The menu featured fresh Setouchi seafood, and each course was a work of art. Liam and I opted for the dinner menu, and it was an extraordinary experience. The flavors were delicate and complex, and the presentation was stunning. The large windows of the restaurant offered views of the Inland Sea and the surrounding modern art, making it a truly unique dining experience.

To cap off the evening, we decided to check out Bar SARU.

Discover the vibrant nightlife of Naoshima at Bar SARU, where local beers and a cozy atmosphere await every traveler.
It is the only bar on Naoshima that stays open late. It’s a cozy spot with a homely atmosphere. We enjoyed a couple of Naoshima beers and chatted with some locals. The vibe was relaxed and friendly, and it was the perfect way to unwind after a day of art and exploration.

As I reflect on today, I’m struck by the way Naoshima manages to create spaces that are both challenging and comforting, thought-provoking and serene. The Art House Project is a testament to the island’s commitment to integrating art into everyday life, transforming abandoned houses and traditional structures into immersive art installations. Each piece tells a story, resonating with its environment and offering a unique perspective on the intersection of past and present.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore more of the Art House Project, visiting Haisha and the Ando Museum. We’ll also check out the Red Pumpkin, one of Yayoi Kusama’s iconic sculptures. I’m excited to see what other artistic treasures Naoshima has in store for us. I am also keen to visit Shimacoya, a shop I read about, offering coffee, books and local crafts.

Goodnight from Naoshima, where art and nature intertwine to create a truly unforgettable experience.