Art and Adventure: Discovering Naoshima Island

Island Artistry: Unveiling Naoshima's Hidden Gems

Today was a day of wandering through art that blurs the lines between installation and everyday life. Naoshima continues to surprise and inspire me with its unique blend of contemporary art and traditional Japanese settings. From exploring renovated houses turned into art spaces to encountering iconic sculptures, every corner of this island offers a new perspective. Liam and I set out early, eager to delve deeper into the artistic soul of Naoshima.

Our first stop was breakfast at Chikurin. It's a quaint izakaya that's known for its cozy atmosphere and traditional Japanese dishes. It’s the kind of place where you feel like you're getting an authentic taste of the local culture. The restaurant is run by one person who manages everything from taking orders to cooking and serving the food. I opted for a simple but satisfying Japanese breakfast set. Liam went for the grilled fish. Fuelled up, we were ready to explore.

Art House Project: Haisha - A Dentist's Dream Transformed

The Art House Project: Haisha is one of Naoshima's most intriguing attractions. It involves taking abandoned houses, temples, and shrines in the Honmura district and turning them into art installations. Each house is transformed by a different artist, weaving in the history and memories of the building. It’s a project that breathes new life into the community, blending the old with the new.

Haisha, meaning dentist, was our first stop. This former dental clinic and residence has been transformed by artist Shinro Ohtake into an eclectic and immersive art space. From the outside, it looks like a chaotic mix of rusted tin sheets, wooden panels, and old signboards. But inside, it’s a whole other world.

The house incorporates an array of stylistic elements, appearing in some places like a sculpture, in others like a painting, and in still others like a collage or scrapbook. The title of the work, Dreaming Tongue, represents the process of holding something in one's mouth and recalling a dream by retracing the taste and scent. One of the most striking features is a replica of the Statue of Liberty. It’s an unexpected and thought-provoking addition that adds to the surreal atmosphere.

Walking through Haisha felt like stepping into a dream. Each room told a different story, and the layers of history and art were palpable. It’s amazing how Ohtake managed to preserve the essence of the building while infusing it with his unique artistic vision.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

Contemplating Minimalism: The Ando Museum

Next on our list was the Ando Museum. Dedicated to the work of Tadao Ando, one of Japan's most famous architects, this museum is a testament to his minimalist yet thought-provoking design principles. Ando also designed most other museums on Naoshima.

The museum is located in a renovated traditional wooden house in the Honmura area. From the outside, it blends seamlessly into the neighborhood. But inside, it combines traditional interior design with Ando's signature use of concrete, creating an intriguing atmosphere.

The exhibits include photographs, sketches, and models that showcase Ando's work and Naoshima's history. It’s fascinating to see how he integrates his modern designs into the traditional Japanese landscape. The interplay of light and shadow, the clean lines, and the use of natural materials all reflect his philosophy of creating spaces that inspire introspection and connection.

As a photographer, I'm always drawn to spaces that play with light and form, and the Ando Museum was a masterclass in both. The way the concrete walls framed the light, the way the shadows danced across the surfaces – it was all incredibly inspiring. Liam, with his software engineer's mind, appreciated the precision and the structural integrity of Ando's designs.

Lunch at Ebisukamo: A Taste of Local Flavors

For lunch, we headed to Ebisukamo, a small izakaya in the Honmura area. This cozy restaurant is known for its incredible food and friendly staff. The owner is praised for going above and beyond for customers. The chef, Kazuya, is known for his delicious dishes and friendly demeanor.

I opted for the fresh seafood set meal, which included sashimi, grilled fish, and miso soup. Liam went for the yellowtail sashimi. The portions were on the smaller side, but the quality was outstanding. Each dish was prepared with care, highlighting the fresh, local ingredients.

One of the unique items on the menu was local ginger beer, which we both tried. It had a spicy kick that was perfect for the warm weather. The cozy atmosphere and personal touch from the owner made Ebisukamo a highly recommended dining experience.

The Iconic Red Pumpkin: A Pop of Color at Miyanoura Port

No trip to Naoshima is complete without seeing Yayoi Kusama's Red Pumpkin. Located at Miyanoura Port, this giant sculpture is one of the first things you see when you arrive on the island. It’s impossible to miss, with its bold black polka dots and vibrant red color.

The Red Pumpkin is more than just a landmark. It’s a playful invitation into a world where art blends seamlessly with nature, architecture, and local life. Visitors can actually step inside the sculpture, experiencing the artwork from within.

As I stepped inside the pumpkin, I was struck by the way the light filtered through the holes. It created a mesmerizing pattern of light and shadow that danced across the interior. It’s a simple but powerful experience that connects you to the artist's vision and the island's artistic spirit. Liam and I took some fun photos inside, trying to capture the unique perspective.

Before heading back to our lodge, we stopped by Shimacoya, a charming café and variety store. It’s a unique spot that combines a café, a used bookstore, and a shop selling local crafts. I picked up a few postcards and a book on Scandinavian design. Liam found a vintage map of Japan. We enjoyed a cup of coffee and a jumbo pudding before heading back.

Dinner with a View: Terrace Restaurant

For dinner, we decided to splurge a little and try the Terrace Restaurant at Benesse House. This restaurant offers a fine dining experience with stunning views of the Seto Inland Sea. The large windows and high ceilings give the restaurant an airy, open feel.

We opted for the degustation menu, which featured fresh, local ingredients prepared with a French influence. Each dish was a work of art, both in terms of presentation and flavor. The tempura fish and chilled corn soup were particular highlights. As the sun set over the sea, the shifting light created a magical atmosphere. It was the perfect end to a day filled with art and discovery.

Tomorrow, we’re planning to explore the Naoshima Fishing Park and the Honmura Lounge & Archive. I’m also intrigued by the Walking Ark. And, if we have time, we might check out Naoshima Yokocho, a local bar.

Naoshima continues to captivate me with its unique blend of art, nature, and culture. It’s a place where you can slow down, connect with your surroundings, and discover new perspectives. I’m grateful for the opportunity to experience this island and share my journey with you.