Exploring the Enchanted Forests of Yakushima

Whispers of the Ancient Forest

Today was nothing short of magical. I ventured deep into Yakushima's heart, where the ancient forests hum with stories untold. It was a day of challenging hikes, breathtaking vistas, and profound connection with nature. The island’s spirit is palpable, a presence that wraps around you like the humid air, leaving you breathless and humbled.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Aqua Cafe. It’s a cozy spot, and I fueled up with a Japanese-style western meal before heading out. The weather forecast predicted a mix of sunshine and rain, typical for Yakushima in July, so I made sure to pack my rain gear. I've learned that on this island, being prepared for rain is not just wise, it's essential. The humidity was already thick as I stepped out, promising another day of lush, vibrant scenery.


Discover Aqua Cafe in Yakushima - where exquisite local cuisine meets breathtaking nature in a cozy dining experience.

My first destination was the famed Shiratani Unsui Gorge. I’d heard so much about this place, especially its connection to Studio Ghibli’s *Princess Mononoke*. The bus ride there was an adventure in itself, winding through narrow mountain roads with glimpses of the coastline far below. Arriving at the gorge, I paid the entrance fee, contributing to the forest’s upkeep, and stepped into a world of vibrant green.


Explore the lush beauty of Shiratani Unsui Gorge, a scenic gem in Yakushima, featuring ancient cedar forests and stunning hiking trails.

The Shiratani Unsui Gorge is an ethereal realm of moss-covered rocks, ancient trees, and crystal-clear streams. The air was thick with moisture, and the sunlight filtered through the canopy, creating an otherworldly glow. I spent hours wandering along the trails, my camera working overtime to capture the stunning beauty. Every corner turned revealed a new vista, a more enchanting scene than the last. I could see why Miyazaki drew inspiration from this place; it felt like stepping directly into the movie.

I chose the Mononoke Hime trail, eager to experience the heart of the forest. The path was challenging, with steep inclines and rocky terrain, but the scenery was more than worth the effort. I paused frequently to take photos, to simply breathe in the fresh, earthy air, and to listen to the gentle murmur of the streams. It was a sensory feast, a balm for the soul. The forest floor was a carpet of emerald moss, soft and springy underfoot. Towering Yakusugi cedars, some over a thousand years old, stood sentinel, their gnarled branches reaching towards the sky.

The forest is not a resource to be exploited, but a living entity to be revered.

After a few hours of hiking, I made my way back to the entrance, feeling invigorated and humbled by the experience. It was time for lunch, and I headed to Hachiman, a local izakaya known for its traditional dishes. Though primarily serving meat, I was able to find some vegan options such as cold tofu, fried tofu (prepared without fish broth), edamame, and salad. It was a satisfying meal that gave me a taste of local culture.


Discover the flavors of Japan at Hachiman in Yakushima - an authentic izakaya experience awaits with delicious dishes and local drinks.

The afternoon was dedicated to the legendary Jōmon Sugi, the ancient cedar estimated to be between 2,000 and 7,200 years old. Reaching Jōmon Sugi requires a significant hike, about 22 kilometers round trip, and most people start early in the morning. I began my trek from the Arakawa Trail entrance, taking a bus since private vehicles are restricted to minimize environmental impact.


Discover the ancient beauty of Jōmon Sugi, Japan's oldest cedar tree, nestled in the lush landscapes of Yakushima's UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The initial part of the hike follows an old railway track used to transport timber in the early 20th century. It was a relatively easy walk, and I enjoyed the peaceful scenery along the Anbo River. The path wound through dense forest, occasionally opening up to reveal glimpses of the surrounding mountains. After a few hours on the railway track, the trail veered off into the forest, becoming steeper and more challenging. This part of the hike was more strenuous, with rocky paths and uneven terrain, but the anticipation of seeing the Jōmon Sugi kept me going.

As I climbed higher, the forest became more ancient and primeval. The trees were larger, the moss thicker, and the air cooler. I passed by other notable trees, including the Wilson’s Stump, a massive cedar stump with a hollow interior. Peering inside, I was struck by the sheer size of the tree that once stood there. It was a humbling reminder of the scale and age of these forests.

Finally, after about five hours of hiking, I reached the Jōmon Sugi. The sight of this ancient tree was awe-inspiring. It stood tall and majestic, its gnarled trunk and branches testament to centuries of weathering storms and enduring the passage of time. An observation deck has been built about 15 meters away from the tree to protect it from the impact of tourism, but even from that distance, its presence was overwhelming. I spent a long time simply gazing at the Jōmon Sugi, feeling a deep connection to the natural world and a sense of gratitude for being able to witness such an ancient and magnificent being.

The hike back was long and tiring, but I was buoyed by the memory of the Jōmon Sugi and the incredible beauty of the forest. As darkness began to fall, I reached the trailhead, exhausted but exhilarated. I boarded the bus back to town, reflecting on the day’s adventures.

For dinner, I decided to treat myself to Italian cuisine at Il Mare, a restaurant near the airport. I had a delightful meal of seafood pasta, enjoying the contrast between Italian flavors and local Yakushima ingredients. The restaurant offered a view of the sea and Tanegashima Island, providing a perfect end to a perfect day.


Discover Il Mare in Yakushima for an unforgettable Italian dining experience amidst stunning natural beauty.

Before heading back to my guesthouse, I stopped by Cafe＆Bar RainTree カフェバー·レインツリー for a nightcap. It was a cozy little place, and I enjoyed a quiet drink while listening to some local music. The bar had a karaoke setup, and a few locals were belting out their favorite tunes, adding to the lively atmosphere.


Experience the unique blend of café culture and karaoke fun at Cafe＆Bar RainTree in Yakushima's enchanting landscapes.

As I walked back to my accommodation, the sounds of the forest faded into the background, replaced by the gentle hum of the town. The air was cooler now, and the stars were beginning to appear in the night sky. I felt a deep sense of contentment, grateful for the opportunity to experience the magic of Yakushima. Tomorrow, I plan to visit Yakusugi Land, another of the island’s famed natural parks. I’m looking forward to more hiking, more breathtaking scenery, and more immersion in the ancient forests of this enchanted island.

I’m also hoping to visit Pukaridō tomorrow, a local shop, to find some unique souvenirs to bring back home. But for now, it’s time to rest and recharge, ready for another day of adventure in Yakushima.

The island has definitely stolen a piece of my heart, and I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings. Until then, *oyasumi nasai* (good night) from Yakushima.