Solo Adventure: Exploring the Untamed Beauty of Yakushima

A Day Amongst Giants

Today was a day of deep immersion into the heart of Yakushima's ancient forests. I set out to explore Yakusugi Land and meet the venerable Daio Sugi, hoping to capture the spirit of this unique island through my lens and experience its profound natural beauty. The day was filled with moments of awe, quiet contemplation, and a deeper connection to the ancient world.


Explore Yakusugi Land: a UNESCO World Heritage nature preserve in Yakushima known for its ancient cedar trees and stunning hiking trails.

The day began with an early start and a hearty breakfast at hiyoriya. This small vegan restaurant offered a macrobiotic meal that was both nourishing and delicious. I made sure to call ahead to confirm they were open, a tip I picked up from a fellow traveler online. The calm atmosphere of the restaurant was the perfect way to start a day dedicated to exploring the serene wilderness of Yakushima.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Hiyoriya in Yakushima, where fresh local ingredients meet traditional flavors amidst breathtaking scenery.

Fueled up and ready, I made my way to Yakusugi Land. The drive itself was an experience, winding through lush landscapes and offering glimpses of the island's diverse flora. Yakusugi Land is a designated Natural Recreation Forest, home to numerous ancient Yakusugi cedar trees, some over a thousand years old. Upon arrival, I paid the 500 yen donation at the administration building and secured a map of the trails. There are several trails to choose from, ranging from easy 30-minute walks to more challenging multi-hour hikes.

I opted for the 150-minute course, a medium-difficulty trail that promised a good balance of accessibility and immersion. The air was thick with the scent of cedar and damp earth, and the sounds of the forest – rustling leaves, trickling streams, and the occasional call of a bird – created a symphony of nature. The trails are well-maintained, with sections of wooden walkways and stone paths. As I ventured deeper, I was surrounded by towering Yakusugi trees, their gnarled trunks covered in vibrant green moss. The sunlight filtering through the canopy created an ethereal glow, highlighting the intricate details of the forest floor.

In the heart of Yakushima's ancient forest, time seemed to slow, allowing me to connect with the enduring spirit of nature.

One of the most remarkable aspects of Yakusugi Land is the way new cedars grow on the fallen trees, a testament to the forest's resilience and regenerative power. I paused frequently to take photos, trying to capture the majesty of these ancient giants and the delicate beauty of the surrounding ecosystem. I even spotted a few Yakushima deer and monkeys along the way, seemingly unfazed by my presence.

After a fulfilling hike, I was ready for lunch. I headed to Subarashi Indian Restaurant, located in Miyanoura. It might seem odd to have Indian food in Japan, but I had read great reviews and was curious to try it. I wasn't disappointed. I ordered a vegetarian curry and specified no butter or ghee to make it vegan. The curry was flavorful and satisfying, a welcome change of pace after a morning of hiking. The staff were friendly and accommodating, and I enjoyed the cozy atmosphere of the restaurant.


Discover authentic Indian flavors at Subarashi Indian Restaurant in Yakushima, where tradition meets local charm.

With renewed energy, I set off to find Daio Sugi, also known as the King Cedar. This ancient tree, estimated to be over 3,000 years old, was once considered the largest Yakusugi before the discovery of Jomon Sugi. Reaching Daio Sugi involved a bit more of a trek, but the reward was well worth the effort. The new viewing route offers a closer and more magnificent view of the tree, allowing you to appreciate its immense size and presence.


Discover the ancient beauty of Daio Sugi, a remarkable nature preserve in Yakushima, showcasing towering cedar trees and rich biodiversity.

Standing before Daio Sugi, I was humbled by its age and resilience. The tree stands at an impressive 25 meters tall with a circumference of 16 meters. Its weathered bark and sturdy branches told a silent story of centuries of storms, seasons, and survival. I spent some time simply gazing at the tree, feeling a sense of connection to the deep history of the island. It was a truly awe-inspiring experience.

As the day drew to a close, I decided to do some shopping at Pukaridō. This gift shop, located near the Yakushima airport, offers a variety of local products, including Yakusugi handicrafts and local liquors. I picked up a few souvenirs for Olivia and Ethan, wanting to bring a piece of Yakushima's magic back home to them. I even found a small Yakusugi carving for my desk, a reminder of the ancient forests I had explored.


Explore Pukaridō in Yakushima for unique souvenirs and local liquors, capturing the essence of this beautiful island.

For dinner, I chose Wakadaisho, a popular izakaya in Miyanoura known for its fresh seafood. I sampled some local specialties, including flying fish tempura and deer tataki. The atmosphere was lively and welcoming, and the staff were incredibly friendly. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploration and reflection.


Experience authentic sushi crafted with fresh local ingredients in the heart of Yakushima's natural beauty.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit Ryujin Falls and Senpiro Falls, continuing my exploration of Yakushima's natural wonders. I'm also hoping to check out Ambar, a local bar, for a nightcap [If last day of trip, merge in “Trip end”]. But for now, I'm content to savor the memories of today, the whispers of the ancient cedars, and the quiet beauty of Yakushima.

As I reflect on my journey so far, I realize that Yakushima is more than just a destination; it's an experience that touches the soul. The island's ancient forests, unique wildlife, and welcoming locals have created a tapestry of memories that I will cherish for years to come. It's a place where you can disconnect from the modern world and reconnect with the natural world, finding peace and inspiration in the whispers of the ancient trees.

I'm already looking forward to sharing these experiences with Olivia and Ethan someday. Perhaps we can plan a trip together, hiking these trails and exploring the island's hidden gems. For now, I'll continue to capture these moments and share them with you, hoping to inspire your own journey of discovery.

I think that the best thing about travelling solo is you get to do exactly what you want, whenever you want to do it. Maybe next time Olivia and the little one can come along, but until then, I am happy to explore these places by myself and just take it all in.

I have to remember to get some insect repellent and sunscreen tomorrow, as I forgot to pack them! It is very important to protect yourself from the elements when hiking, especially during summer.

Daisugi: An Interesting Technique

While exploring Yakushima, I couldn't help but think about Daisugi, an ancient Japanese tree-growing technique. Though not practiced on Yakushima to my knowledge, it shares a similar philosophy of respecting and maximizing the use of natural resources. Daisugi involves pruning the branches of a mature cedar tree to encourage new shoots to grow from the base, creating straight, slender trunks that can be harvested without cutting down the entire tree. This sustainable method, originating in the Muromachi period, reflects Japan's deep connection with nature and its commitment to craftsmanship. It's fascinating to see how different regions of Japan have developed unique approaches to forestry, each rooted in a profound respect for the environment.

I will keep an eye out tomorrow to see if I can spot any examples of this technique, but I am not sure if it is something that is practiced on this island.

Other Shops

I read about a few other shops that I wanted to check out, but I didn't have time today. I will try to visit them tomorrow. These shops include:
JA Tanega Yaku Pontan-kan
Shelly Coco
Life Center Yakuden

Weather

The weather today was warm and humid, with temperatures reaching around 27°C. There were scattered showers in the afternoon, but they didn't last long. The humidity made the hiking a bit challenging, but the occasional breeze was a welcome relief. According to weather reports, July in Yakushima typically sees high temperatures and heavy rainfall, so it's essential to be prepared for all conditions.

I am glad that I brought my rain jacket, as it came in handy during the showers. I also made sure to drink plenty of water to stay hydrated. The sun was strong, so I should have brought sunscreen to protect my skin.

All things considered, it was a great day, and I am looking forward to seeing what tomorrow brings.