Exploring the Enchanted Forests of Yakushima

Coastal Soaks and Waterfall Wonders

Today, on day six of my solo exploration of Yakushima, I embraced the island's contrasting landscapes, from its rocky coasts to its lush interior. It was a day of sensory delights, immersing myself in both the soothing warmth of a unique seaside onsen and the invigorating spray of a powerful waterfall. As a horticultural consultant, I'm constantly drawn to the way water shapes and sustains life, and today was a perfect example of that.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Panorama. The name certainly lived up to the view! I savored a traditional Japanese breakfast while gazing out over the coastline. It was the perfect way to prepare for a day of exploration. I must admit, I felt a pang of longing for Klaus as I sat there, enjoying the serene view. We've always loved sharing moments like these, and I made a mental note to recreate this breakfast experience when I return to Heidelberg.

The first stop on my itinerary was the much-anticipated Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen. This onsen is unlike anything I’ve ever experienced. It's a natural hot spring that emerges right on the coast, accessible only during low tide. The idea of soaking in warm water, mere steps from the crashing waves of the Pacific Ocean, was simply irresistible. The weather in Yakushima in July is tolerable, so it was the perfect time to visit.


Experience the breathtaking beauty of Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen, a unique outdoor hot spring retreat on Yakushima Island, surrounded by nature's splendor.
Finding the onsen was an adventure in itself. I followed a small road that winded along the coastline, the air thick with the scent of sea salt and the earthy aroma of the surrounding forest. When I arrived, I could see the tide was indeed low, revealing the rocky pools that form the onsen. There were already a few people there, mostly locals, preparing to take a dip. I quickly learned that swimsuits are not allowed. I felt a bit self-conscious at first, but I reminded myself that this is part of the Japanese onsen culture, a tradition of naturalness and openness. I took the plunge, literally, and eased myself into the warm, mineral-rich water. The sensation was incredible.

Soaking in the Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen, with the ocean breeze on my face and the sound of the waves in my ears, was an experience that transcended mere relaxation; it was a communion with nature itself.

The water was wonderfully warm, not scalding, and the gentle waves lapped against the rocks, creating a soothing rhythm. I spent a good hour there, letting the warm water ease my muscles and the salty air invigorate my senses. It was a truly unique experience, one that I will cherish for a long time. I even struck up a conversation with a local fisherman who shared stories about the island and its traditions. He spoke of the deep connection the people of Yakushima have with the sea, and how the onsen is a place where they come to heal and reconnect with nature. It reminded me of the importance of preserving these natural spaces, not just for our enjoyment, but for the well-being of the community.

After my rejuvenating soak, I was ready for the next adventure: Ohko Waterfall. I had read that it was the largest waterfall on the island and one of Japan's best, and I was eager to see it for myself. I grabbed lunch at Yakushima Gallery Restaurant. The restaurant had a lovely ambiance, and I enjoyed a light meal of local seafood before continuing my journey.


Experience the breathtaking beauty of Ohko Waterfall in Yakushima, a natural wonder amidst lush landscapes, perfect for nature lovers and photographers.
The drive to the waterfall took me through the heart of Yakushima's ancient forest. The towering Yakusugi cedar trees, draped in moss and ferns, created a mystical atmosphere. The air was cool and damp, and the sound of rushing water grew louder as I approached the falls. The trail to Ohko Waterfall was well-maintained, but still felt like a true wilderness experience. The path meandered through the forest, crossing small streams and climbing over moss-covered rocks. The anticipation grew with each step.

Finally, I reached the viewing platform, and the sight that greeted me was breathtaking. Ohko Waterfall cascaded down an 88-meter cliff, sending up a cloud of mist that shimmered in the sunlight. The power and majesty of the falls were awe-inspiring. I stood there for a long time, simply marveling at the beauty of nature. The sound of the water crashing into the pool below was deafening, yet somehow soothing. It was a reminder of the raw energy that shapes our planet.

I spent the afternoon exploring the area around the waterfall, taking photos and soaking in the atmosphere. I even ventured down to the base of the falls, where I could feel the spray on my face. It was invigorating and refreshing. As I stood there, surrounded by the ancient forest and the cascading water, I felt a deep sense of connection to the natural world. It was a moment of pure bliss, a reminder of why I love to travel and explore.

As the day drew to a close, I decided to treat myself to dinner at Yakushima Furusato Market Island Megumi Kan. It was a bustling place, filled with locals and tourists alike. I sampled some of the local specialties, including grilled flying fish and a variety of fresh seafood. The atmosphere was lively and festive, and I enjoyed chatting with some of the other diners. I even picked up a few souvenirs to take back home to Klaus and Olivia.

Before heading back to my guesthouse, I stopped by Fisherman's Bar NINA for a nightcap. It was a cozy little place, with a friendly atmosphere and a good selection of local drinks. I enjoyed a glass of shochu, a traditional Japanese spirit, and chatted with the bartender about the island's history and culture. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploration and adventure.

Reflecting on the day, I realized how fortunate I am to be able to experience such incredible places. Yakushima is truly a special island, a place where nature reigns supreme and the spirit of adventure is alive and well. The contrast between the calming onsen and the majestic waterfall was so apt, and reminded me of the contrasting elements that make up life itself. As I prepare for tomorrow's hike to Meoto Sugi and the Kigensugi Cedar, I feel a sense of gratitude and excitement for what lies ahead. I'm particularly looking forward to seeing the ancient cedar trees, some of which are over a thousand years old. I will stop by Tomari Book Store to see if they have any books about the local flora.

Tonight, as I write this, I'm filled with a sense of peace and contentment. The memories of the day, the warmth of the onsen, the spray of the waterfall, the taste of the local food, will stay with me long after I leave Yakushima. I'm reminded of a German idiom Klaus taught me: Die Natur ist die beste Apotheke, which means Nature is the best pharmacy. And today, I certainly felt the healing power of nature.

Until tomorrow,
Michelle