Exploring the Enchanted Forests of Yakushima

Guardians of the Forest

Today was a day of reverence and reflection amidst the ancient giants of Yakushima. I ventured into the heart of the island, seeking a deeper connection with these venerable trees that have stood sentinel for millennia. It was a day filled with quiet awe, punctuated by the comforting rhythms of nature and the simple pleasures of local flavors.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Michikusa. I had read that Michikusa is run by the mother of the island, and supports local production for local consumption. The restaurant signboard was small and difficult to spot, but I managed to find it. Opting for the traditional Japanese breakfast set, I savored the delicate flavors and the comforting warmth of miso soup, fueling up for the day's adventures. It's funny, I almost forgot my Japanese phrasebook again, but thankfully remembered it at the last minute. It's proven invaluable for these off-the-beaten-path experiences.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Michikusa in Yakushima, where local flavors meet exquisite dining in a charming atmosphere.

With a full stomach and a sense of anticipation, I set off to find Meoto Sugi, the 'Husband and Wife Cedars'. The drive itself was a treat, winding through verdant landscapes dotted with glimpses of the azure sea. As I ascended into the mountains, the air grew cooler, carrying the scent of damp earth and ancient wood. It was easy to feel a world away from Heidelberg, and the familiar comfort of Klaus's presence.

The trail to Meoto Sugi was a gentle climb, perfect for a contemplative stroll. Sunlight filtered through the dense canopy, illuminating patches of vibrant green moss and the intricate patterns of ferns clinging to the trees. The forest floor was soft beneath my hiking boots, a carpet of decaying leaves and fallen branches, nourishing the very trees I had come to admire. It was a scene straight out of a fairy tale, reminding me of the enchanted forests I used to read about as a child in Whanganui.

Arriving at Meoto Sugi, I was struck by their quiet majesty. Two towering cedars, their trunks intertwined high above, their branches reaching towards the heavens like embracing arms. They stood as a testament to enduring love and partnership, a symbol of resilience and interconnectedness in the face of time. Standing there, alone amidst these ancient beings, I couldn't help but reflect on my own relationship with Klaus. Our life together, like these trees, has weathered many storms, yet our roots remain deeply intertwined, our love growing stronger with each passing year.


Explore the enchanting twin cedar trees of Meoto Sugi, a serene nature preserve in Yakushima, where nature's beauty and tranquility await.

In the presence of ancient trees, one feels a sense of perspective and humility, a reminder of the enduring power of nature and the fleeting nature of our own existence.

After spending a peaceful hour with the Meoto Sugi, I made my way towards Kigensugi Cedar. Kigensugi is known as the biggest Yakusugi cedar tree accessible by car. Unlike the trek to Meoto Sugi, this magnificent tree was conveniently located right next to the road, making it easily accessible. I learned that Kigensugi is estimated to be around 3,000 years old, a testament to the incredible longevity of these ancient trees. It's amazing to think that this tree was already ancient when the Roman Empire was at its peak!

What struck me most about Kigensugi was its resilience. Despite the harsh environment and the passage of countless seasons, it stood tall and proud, its gnarled branches reaching out like welcoming arms. The top of Kigen-sugi cedar is dead, however it looks to be full of energy when seen from below. I also learned that Kigen-sugi cedar coexists with many epiphytes, such as the Yakushima rhododendron and Japanese rowan, that bloom each season. Gazing at this ancient tree in its tranquil environment, largely untouched for hundreds of years, was indeed a moment to remember.


Explore the iconic Kigensugi Cedar in Yakushima, a 1,000-year-old natural marvel surrounded by stunning hiking trails and rich biodiversity.

For lunch, I had planned to visit Kotobuki, a restaurant famed for its elegant, delicious and cheaply priced Japanese course lunches and dinners. Kotobuki is built in a traditional style, and is known for its beautiful wood and stone surroundings. However, Kotobuki is only open Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday, and reservations have to be made at least a day in advance. Given it was Monday, I was in luck, so I booked a table and headed over. Finding it was a bit of an adventure, tucked away off the main road, but the effort was well worth it. The setting was outstanding and the homely Japanese interior felt like I had stepped back in time.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine and delightful sweets at Kotobuki in Yakushima—where tradition meets flavor in every bite.

The menu was a set course, showcasing the freshest local ingredients, with each dish a work of art, both visually and gastronomically. I savored every bite, appreciating the delicate balance of flavors and the artistry of the presentation. The owner was incredibly gracious, sharing stories about the island and its culinary traditions. It was a truly immersive experience, a chance to connect with the local culture on a deeper level. It reminded me of the farmers' markets in Heidelberg, where I love to explore local produce and chat with the vendors.

In the late afternoon, I decided to visit Tomari Book Store, a small, unassuming shop in the town of Tomari. I had heard that it was a treasure trove of local lore and literature, a place where one could lose themselves in the stories of Yakushima. As I stepped inside, I was greeted by the scent of old paper and the gentle murmur of voices. The shelves were lined with books in Japanese, but I managed to find a small selection of English titles about the island's history and natural wonders. I picked up a few volumes, eager to delve deeper into the mysteries of Yakushima.


Explore the literary treasures of Tomari Book Store in Yakushima, where local culture and global literature come together in a cozy setting.

For dinner, I chose Yakushima Gallery Restaurant, drawn in by its reputation for blending local flavors with traditional techniques. I wasn't disappointed. The restaurant offered a unique dining experience, with dishes that celebrated the island's bounty. I enjoyed a delicious meal of fresh seafood and local vegetables, expertly prepared and beautifully presented. The ambiance was warm and inviting, the perfect setting for reflecting on the day's adventures.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yakushima Gallery Restaurant, where local flavors meet traditional techniques in an unforgettable dining experience.

As the day drew to a close, I found myself filled with a sense of gratitude and contentment. Yakushima had cast its spell once again, weaving its magic around my heart and soul. The ancient trees, the delicious food, the friendly locals – all had contributed to a day of profound connection and quiet joy. As I prepare for tomorrow's adventures, which include a visit to the Yakushima-todai Lighthouse and the Yakushima Sea Turtle Hall, I carry with me the whispers of the ancient cedars, a reminder of the enduring beauty and wisdom of the natural world. I also plan to visit Hitomekuri bar, as I've heard it has a unique atmosphere.

Before heading back to my guesthouse, I took a moment to simply sit and observe. The sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky with hues of orange, pink, and purple. The air grew cooler, carrying the scent of pine and damp earth. The sounds of the forest filled the air – the rustling of leaves, the chirping of insects, the distant murmur of the ocean. It was a symphony of nature, a reminder of the interconnectedness of all living things. In that moment, I felt a deep sense of peace and belonging, a sense of being part of something larger than myself. Yakushima, you have captured my heart, and I am forever grateful for the lessons you have taught me.

Tomorrow, I am looking forward to exploring more of Yakushima's coastal wonders, and perhaps even catching a glimpse of the island's famous sea turtles. But for tonight, I will rest and dream of ancient cedars, whispering secrets in the wind. I think I will buy some insect repellent before I head out tomorrow, though!

I am also thinking about Klaus and Olivia. I wonder what they are doing right now? I must remember to call them tomorrow.