Exploring the Enchanted Forests of Yakushima

A Forest Awakening

The air here is different, isn't it? It's thick with moisture, carrying the scent of cedar and something ancient, something almost forgotten. Today marked the beginning of my solo journey into the heart of Yakushima, an island I've dreamt of exploring for years. As a horticultural consultant, I've read countless articles and seen numerous photographs of its famed forests, but nothing could have prepared me for the reality. It's an immersive experience that touches all the senses, a place where time seems to slow down, and the whispers of nature become deafening.

My day began, as most travel days do, with the slightly chaotic energy of an airport. After arriving via a domestic flight from Tokyo, my first order of business was breakfast at the Yakushima Airport Restaurant. A simple meal of grilled fish, rice, and miso soup set the tone for the trip – wholesome, local, and deeply satisfying. It was a far cry from the usual rushed breakfasts I grab in Heidelberg before heading to a client's garden.


Experience authentic Japanese regional cuisine at Yakushima Airport Restaurant - where flavor meets nature's beauty.

Fueled and ready, I set off to explore Yakushima National Park. July in Yakushima is warm, with temperatures hovering around 29°C, and the humidity is high, but the occasional breeze offered a welcome respite. I was well-prepared for the weather, having packed my trusty hiking boots and rain jacket, essentials for any trip to this famously damp island. I even remembered to bring sunscreen, a habit Klaus always teases me about, but one that has saved my skin more times than I can count.


Explore the ancient forests and breathtaking landscapes of Yakushima National Park, a jewel of Japan's natural heritage and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

My first proper stop was Yakusugi Land. The name might sound like a theme park, but trust me, it's anything but. It's a natural park filled with ancient Yakusugi cedar trees, some over a thousand years old. As I stepped onto the trail, I was immediately enveloped by the forest's embrace. The sunlight filtered through the canopy, creating a mosaic of light and shadow on the moss-covered ground. The air was cool and damp, and the silence was broken only by the sound of my own footsteps and the occasional rustle of leaves.


Explore Yakusugi Land: a UNESCO World Heritage nature preserve in Yakushima known for its ancient cedar trees and stunning hiking trails.

I chose the 150-minute hiking course, a well-maintained trail that wound its way through the heart of the park. It was an easy hike, perfect for acclimatizing to the island's terrain. The trail was dotted with magnificent trees, each one a testament to the passage of time. There was the Buddhasugi, its trunk as wide as it was tall, and the Sennensugi, over a thousand years old. Each tree had a presence, a quiet dignity that commanded respect. I spent hours wandering through the forest, taking photographs and simply soaking in the atmosphere.

In the heart of Yakushima, time ceases to be a measure of hours and days, becoming instead a testament to the enduring spirit of nature.

I lost myself in the labyrinthine paths, marveling at the intricate root systems of the ancient trees and the vibrant green moss that carpeted every surface. It was a truly immersive experience, a chance to reconnect with nature on a profound level. I thought of Klaus and how much he would have loved this place. He always appreciated the beauty of natural forms, and I knew he would have been in his element here, sketching the ancient trees and intricate landscapes.

As the day wore on, I made my way to the Yakushima Market, eager to sample some of the local produce. The market was bustling with activity, vendors selling everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to local crafts and souvenirs. I picked up some *ponkan* and *tankan* oranges, two of Yakushima's most famous citrus fruits. The sweet, tangy juice was incredibly refreshing, a perfect pick-me-up after a long day of hiking. It reminded me of the citrus groves back in Whanganui, New Zealand, where I grew up. The taste of home, so far away.


Discover the vibrant Yakushima Market, where local crafts and fresh produce come together for an authentic shopping experience.

For lunch, I ventured to the Yakushima Gallery Restaurant. This restaurant offered a delightful array of local dishes. It had a cozy ambiance, perfect for relaxing and enjoying a meal after a morning of hiking. The food was delicious, and the staff was friendly and attentive. I tried a local specialty, the flying fish sashimi, which was surprisingly delicate and flavorful. I also had a chance to chat with some of the locals, who were eager to share their stories and recommendations for exploring the island. It was a reminder of the warmth and hospitality that I've come to expect from the Japanese people.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yakushima Gallery Restaurant, where local flavors meet traditional techniques in an unforgettable dining experience.

My last stop of the day was Katagiri Flying Fish Restaurant for dinner. I had heard rave reviews about their *tobiuo hitsumabushi*, a local delicacy featuring flying fish prepared in a special way. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, with a warm and friendly atmosphere. The *hitsumabushi* was an absolute revelation. The flying fish was grilled to perfection, and the accompanying sauce was sweet and savory. It was a truly memorable meal, a perfect end to a perfect day.


Experience authentic Japanese regional cuisine with an Italian twist at Katagiri Flying Fish Restaurant on beautiful Yakushima Island.

As I write this, sitting in my guesthouse, the sounds of the forest drifting through the open window, I can't help but feel a sense of gratitude. Yakushima has already exceeded all of my expectations. It's a place of incredible beauty and profound tranquility, a place where I can truly disconnect from the stresses of daily life and reconnect with myself. I am glad I did not forget my notebook for journaling as I feel inspired to write about my experiences and observations. I was worried about forgetting my portable phone charger, but luckily my guesthouse had one available.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore the Shiratani Unsui Gorge and Wilson's Stump. I hear the gorge is particularly beautiful, with moss-covered boulders and ancient cedar trees. I am also looking forward to trying the local breakfast at hiyoriya, a restaurant known for its organic cuisine. I am also excited to visit Cafe＆Bar RainTree in the evening, and try some local drinks.

But for now, I'll close my eyes and let the whispers of the forest lull me to sleep, dreaming of ancient cedars and the magic of Yakushima. I am glad that I decided to explore Yakushima, and I cannot wait for what's next! *Oyasumi nasai* from Yakushima!

P.S. I made a mental note to buy a Japanese phrasebook. While many people speak some English, especially in tourist areas, knowing a few basic phrases would definitely enhance my experience and allow me to connect with the locals on a deeper level. It's a small thing, but it's important to me to show respect for the local culture and make an effort to communicate in their language.