Exploring the Enchanted Forests of Yakushima

Enchanted Encounters in Yakushima's Ancient Forests

Today, I embarked on a journey deep into the heart of Yakushima, a day filled with the kind of natural beauty that stirs the soul and reminds one of the profound interconnectedness of all living things. It was a day of whispers from ancient trees, of cool, moss-laden air, and of feeling utterly, wonderfully small amidst the grandeur of nature.

My day began with a delightful breakfast at hiyoriya. The aroma of freshly brewed coffee and the promise of a traditional Japanese breakfast was too enticing to resist. I settled in, eager to fuel up for a day of exploring Yakushima's famed forests. The breakfast set was a delightful mix of grilled fish, miso soup, and an assortment of pickled vegetables. It was a perfect start to the day, offering a glimpse into the island's rich gastronomic heritage. I must remember to try and recreate this at home in Heidelberg for Klaus, he would love it!


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Hiyoriya in Yakushima, where fresh local ingredients meet traditional flavors amidst breathtaking scenery.

With a full stomach and a heart full of anticipation, I set off to Shiratani Unsui Gorge. The drive there was an experience in itself, a winding road that offered tantalizing glimpses of the island's lush interior. As I approached the gorge, the air grew cooler, carrying with it the scent of damp earth and the promise of ancient trees. I was prepared for the humidity, especially after checking the weather forecast which predicted cloudy skies and a chance of rain. Good thing I packed my trusty rain jacket!


Explore the lush beauty of Shiratani Unsui Gorge, a scenic gem in Yakushima, featuring ancient cedar forests and stunning hiking trails.

The Shiratani Unsui Gorge is often referred to as the 'Mononoke Forest,' and as I stepped onto the trail, it was easy to see why. The forest floor was carpeted in a thick layer of vibrant green moss, clinging to every rock and root. Towering Yakusugi cedars, some over a thousand years old, reached for the sky, their gnarled branches draped with ferns and epiphytes. The sunlight filtered through the canopy, creating an ethereal glow that seemed to breathe life into every corner of the forest. I could almost imagine the Kodama, the spirits of the forest, peering out from behind the ancient trees.

Nature is not a place to visit. It is home.

I decided to follow one of the recommended hiking trails, allowing myself to be led by the whispers of the wind and the murmur of the stream. The path wound its way through the forest, sometimes climbing over moss-covered rocks, other times following the gentle curve of the river. The air was thick with the scent of cedar and damp earth, and the only sounds were the rustling of leaves and the occasional call of a bird. It felt as though I had stepped back in time, into a world untouched by the modern age.

The trail was well-maintained, but there were still moments that required a bit of careful footing. I was grateful for my trusty hiking boots, especially when navigating some of the steeper sections. I was reminded of a hike Klaus and I took in the Odenwald forest near Heidelberg. The trails there are beautiful, but nothing quite compares to the primeval beauty of Yakushima.

As I ventured deeper into the gorge, I came across a series of stunning waterfalls, each cascading down moss-covered rocks into crystal-clear pools. The water was so pure and inviting, I couldn't resist dipping my hands in. The coolness of the water was invigorating, a refreshing contrast to the humidity of the forest. I took a moment to simply sit by the water's edge, listening to the soothing sound of the falls and feeling the gentle spray on my face. It was a moment of perfect serenity, a reminder of the simple joys of being immersed in nature.

After a satisfying morning exploring the Shiratani Unsui Gorge, I made my way to DINING CAFE BAR SLOW for lunch. The cafe is known for its relaxed atmosphere and delicious food, and it certainly lived up to its reputation. I ordered a pasta dish made with local seafood, savoring every bite as I looked out over the surrounding forest. It was a perfect spot to recharge before continuing my adventure.


Experience authentic Italian cuisine at Dining Cafe Bar Slow in Yakushima – where fresh ingredients meet stunning natural beauty.

The afternoon was dedicated to visiting Wilson's Stump, another of Yakushima's iconic landmarks. As I approached the site, I was struck by the sheer size of the stump. It was the remains of a giant Yakusugi cedar, estimated to be over 3,000 years old when it was felled centuries ago. The stump was named after Ernest Henry Wilson, a British botanist who explored Yakushima in the early 20th century and introduced many Asian plant species to the West. His work in conservation is something I deeply admire. He truly was a pioneer of nature conservation.


Explore the breathtaking Wilson's Stump in Yakushima, a natural wonder showcasing the island's rich biodiversity and stunning landscapes.

Stepping inside Wilson's Stump was like entering another world. The hollow interior was vast, a cathedral of wood and moss. A small spring trickled through the stump, creating a sense of tranquility and peace. Looking up, I could see the sky framed by the heart-shaped opening in the stump, a view that is said to bring good luck in love. I took a moment to appreciate the incredible history and resilience of this ancient tree.

According to what I read, the tree was cut down in 1586 on the order of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, a powerful daimyo lord, to build a temple in Kyoto. Imagine the sheer scale of the operation, transporting such a massive tree off the island and across the country! Standing inside the stump, I felt a deep sense of connection to the past, to the generations of people who had lived and worked on this island for centuries.

Leaving Wilson's Stump, I felt a sense of awe and wonder. It was a humbling experience to be in the presence of such ancient giants, to witness the power and resilience of nature. It was a reminder that we are all part of something much larger than ourselves, and that we have a responsibility to protect and preserve the natural world for future generations.

As evening approached, I made my way to Wakadaisho for dinner. This sushi restaurant is known for its fresh, local seafood, and I was eager to sample some of Yakushima's culinary delights. I ordered a selection of sushi and sashimi, each piece bursting with flavor and freshness. It was a perfect way to end a day of exploring Yakushima's natural wonders. The staff were so friendly and welcoming, it was a perfect way to end the day.


Experience authentic sushi crafted with fresh local ingredients in the heart of Yakushima's natural beauty.

After dinner, I decided to treat myself to a nightcap at Cafe＆Bar RainTree. The bar has a cozy and inviting atmosphere, and it was the perfect place to unwind after a long day of hiking. I ordered a local craft beer and settled in to enjoy the laid-back vibe of the island. The bar was filled with locals and tourists alike, all sharing stories and laughter. It was a reminder that travel is not just about seeing new places, but also about connecting with new people.


Experience the vibrant blend of karaoke and cafe culture at Cafe＆Bar RainTree in beautiful Yakushima, Japan.

Before heading back to my guesthouse, I took a moment to reflect on the day. It had been a day of incredible beauty, of ancient forests and crystal-clear streams, of delicious food and warm hospitality. Yakushima had truly captured my heart, and I knew that I would never forget my time on this magical island. I thought about Klaus and how much he would have loved to experience this with me. Perhaps we can plan a trip together next year.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit Jōmon Sugi and Daio Sugi, two more of Yakushima's most famous cedar trees. I'm also hoping to do some souvenir shopping at YAKUSHIMA BLESS. I can't wait to see what new adventures await me on this enchanted island.

For now, I'll leave you with a German idiom that seems particularly fitting for today: *Alle guten Dinge sind drei* - All good things come in threes. I'm looking forward to the third day of my Yakushima adventure!