Exploring the Timeless Beauty of Shirakawa-go

Whispers of the Past

Today was a journey into the heart of Japanese history and art. I wandered through enchanting districts and delved into the mind of a local artist, finding beauty in the everyday and echoes of the past in every corner. These are the experiences that remind me why I love to travel solo, allowing myself to get lost in the moment and connect with a place on a deeper level.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Hakusuien. I savored every bite, knowing I needed the energy for the adventures ahead. It's amazing how a traditional Japanese breakfast can set the tone for a day filled with exploration and discovery. I made sure to try the Hoba miso, a local specialty. It was the perfect way to fuel up before diving into the day's itinerary. I must remember to tell Fatima and Omar all about it. They would have loved this. I am sure I can try to recreate this dish when I return to Bielefeld.


Experience authentic Japanese dining at Hakusuien in Shirakawa – where tradition meets taste in every dish.

First on the agenda was the Nishi Chaya District in Kanazawa. Stepping into this preserved teahouse district felt like traveling back in time. The narrow street was lined with traditional wooden buildings, their latticed windows whispering stories of geishas and wealthy patrons from centuries past. It was noticeably quieter than the more famous Higashi Chaya District, which allowed for a more intimate and reflective experience. I strolled along the street, admiring the architecture and imagining the lives of those who once frequented these establishments. Many of the buildings now house sweet shops and cafes, but some still operate as exclusive geisha parlors. I could almost hear the faint melodies of shamisen music drifting from within.


Discover the enchanting Nishi Chaya District in Kanazawa, where history and traditional Japanese culture come to life in picturesque surroundings.

The beauty of travel lies not just in seeing new places, but in experiencing new perspectives.

The Nishi Chaya District was established in 1820, and it served as one of Kanazawa's three historic 'teahouse' entertainment areas. These districts were created for geiko (the local term for geisha) to entertain affluent guests with music, dance, and games. As I walked the main street, I found myself captivated by the well-preserved wooden teahouses that evoked a sense of earlier times. Although many buildings have been repurposed into sweet shops and cafes, a few still function as exclusive geiko parlors. It was easy to imagine the lively entertainment that once filled these streets.

One of the highlights was visiting the Kanazawa Nishi Chaya Museum, a former teahouse that offered a glimpse into the opulent rooms where geiko once entertained their clients. It was fascinating to see the intricate details of the traditional interior design and learn about the customs and rituals associated with these establishments. I spent a good hour wandering through the museum, soaking in the atmosphere and trying to imagine what it must have been like to be a guest in one of these exclusive teahouses.

After immersing myself in the Nishi Chaya District, it was time to head back towards Shirakawa-go to visit the Jin Homura Art Museum. This museum is housed in a traditional gassho-style farmhouse, donated by the painter Jin Homura himself. The contrast between the traditional architecture and the contemporary art within was striking and thought-provoking.


Explore the Jin Homura Art Museum in Shirakawa, where traditional and contemporary Japanese art come together in a stunning cultural experience.

Jin Homura was an artist known for using vivid colors to illustrate the intersection between societal matters and various artistic themes. Born in Shizuoka Prefecture in 1948, Homura studied at the University of Paris and later held solo exhibits in various cities, including Copenhagen. In 2002, he organized the first Shirakawa-go Art Festival, which later became a globally recognized event. The museum displays about 50 of his works, each possessing a unique and powerful energy. The gassho-style house itself, with its steep, thatched roof, added to the museum's charm and created a sense of ancient romance.

As I explored the museum, I was struck by the artist's ability to blend traditional Japanese elements with modern artistic expression. His paintings were bold and vibrant, often depicting scenes from everyday life with a touch of surrealism. It was clear that Homura was deeply inspired by the surrounding landscape and culture of Shirakawa-go. The museum was a testament to his passion and creativity, and I felt grateful to have had the opportunity to experience his work.

After a day of exploring, I found myself at Tenshukaku for dinner and a drink. This spot is known for its panoramic views of the village, and it didn't disappoint. As I sat there, sipping on a local beverage and watching the sun dip below the horizon, I couldn't help but feel a sense of peace and contentment. The beauty of Shirakawa-go is truly something special, and I felt lucky to be able to experience it in such a profound way. The Hida's famous Hoba miso (bean paste) was a must-try, and the rustic wild vegetable dishes were a delightful culinary adventure.


Discover authentic Japanese flavors at Tenshukaku in Shirakawa—where culinary tradition meets stunning mountain views.

The evening at Tenshukaku was the perfect way to cap off a day of cultural immersion and artistic appreciation. It provided a moment to reflect on the beauty and history I had encountered throughout the day. As I looked out over the village, I felt a deep connection to this place and its people. It was a reminder of the importance of preserving our cultural heritage and sharing it with the world.

Reflecting on my day, I am reminded of how much I cherish these solo adventures. They allow me to fully immerse myself in the culture and history of a place, to discover hidden gems, and to connect with the local community in a way that wouldn't be possible if I were traveling with others. While I miss Fatima and Omar, I know that these experiences will enrich my life and give me stories to share with them when I return.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Gyokusenin Maru Garden and the Hatotani Hachiman Shrine. I've heard that the garden is particularly beautiful, and I'm looking forward to exploring its serene landscapes. I am also intrigued by the Hatotani Hachiman Shrine, which is said to have a rich history and cultural significance. And of course, I'll be sure to try the local cuisine at Shiawaseya Kichibei, Tanaka-ya and Soba dojo Restaurant. I am also hoping to find some unique souvenirs at Kataribe. I want to bring something back for Fatima and Omar that truly captures the essence of Shirakawa-go.

As I prepare for another day of exploration, I am filled with a sense of excitement and anticipation. Shirakawa-go has captured my heart, and I can't wait to see what other treasures it has in store for me. I hope you'll continue to follow along on my journey as I uncover the hidden gems of this enchanting village. I am sure to relay all the experiences to my blog readers, so they can experience it too.

Until tomorrow, keep exploring and keep discovering!