Exploring the Timeless Beauty of Shirakawa-go

Echoes of the Edo Period in Takayama

Today was a journey into the heart of Japan's rich history, a day spent wandering through the beautifully preserved town of Takayama. From the meticulously restored Takayama Jinya to the vibrant Jinya-mae Morning Market, every corner held a story waiting to be discovered. The weather was pleasantly warm, a typical summer day, making it perfect for exploring. I felt a sense of excitement, eager to capture the essence of this historical gem through my lens.


Experience the historical essence of Takayama Jinya, a stunning landmark showcasing Japan's rich heritage and traditional architecture.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Gassho. It was a delightful start, fueling me up for the day's adventures. I enjoyed a traditional Japanese breakfast, savoring the delicate flavors and textures. I couldn't help but think of Fatima and Omar back in Bielefeld, wondering if they would enjoy this cuisine as much as I do. I made a mental note to try and recreate some of these dishes when I return, a small way to share my experiences with them.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Gassho in Shirakawa - where tradition meets taste in a picturesque setting.

Takayama Jinya: A Glimpse into the Past

My first stop was Takayama Jinya, a former government outpost that dates back to the Edo period. It is the only remaining ancient government office in Japan, consisting of the office area, living area and one rice storehouse. As I stepped through the entrance, I was immediately transported back in time. The air was thick with history, and I could almost hear the echoes of the officials who once walked these halls. Built in 1615, it has over 400 years of history, originally serving as the residence of the ruler of Takayama.

The architecture was stunning, a testament to the craftsmanship of the era. I wandered through the various rooms, each meticulously restored to its former glory. From the administrative offices to the interrogation rooms, every detail spoke of a bygone era. The classic blue Seigaiba pattern, a wave design believed to bring prosperity and peace, caught my eye at the entrance. The intricate wave pattern and the Mamuki Rabbits on the pillars were unique decorations that added to the building's charm. I learned that Takayama Jinya served as the Daikansho for Hida Province under the Tokugawa shogunate from 1692 to 1871. The Edo Shogunate dispatched 25 generations of provincial governor / magistrate to rule Hida Province for 176 years until 1868.

Takayama Jinya allows you to sense an elegance and powerfulness different to shrine and temple architecture.

I explored the office area, which included the Government Office, Official Business Room, Office for Scribes, Guest Room, Living Room, Law Court and Interrogation Room, and Reception Hall. It was fascinating to imagine the officials dealing with government affairs, collecting taxes, writing documents, and investigating criminals in these very rooms. The building was used as a local administration office from the Meiji period (1868 to 1912) onward, protecting the area for 277 years until the government office was relocated in 1969. The garden in Takayama Jinya is known for its beautiful Sakura in the spring.

I spent a considerable amount of time in the courtyard, admiring the serene beauty of the traditional Japanese garden. The meticulously manicured landscape was a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of modern life. I found myself reflecting on the words of my grandfather, who always emphasized the importance of finding peace and tranquility in nature. This garden was a perfect embodiment of that philosophy.

Jinya-mae Morning Market: A Taste of Local Life

Leaving Takayama Jinya, I made my way to the Jinya-mae Morning Market, which has been located outside Takayama Jinya since 1922. This vibrant market offered a glimpse into the daily life of the local community. Farmers and artisans gathered to sell their wares, creating a lively and colorful scene. It is known as one of Japan's three great morning markets. The market traces its history back to the 1820s.


Discover the vibrant Jinya-mae Morning Markets in Takayama, where fresh local produce meets authentic Japanese culture in a lively market atmosphere.

I strolled through the stalls, admiring the fresh produce, handmade crafts, and local delicacies. The air was filled with the aroma of freshly baked goods and the sounds of friendly banter. I sampled some of the local specialties, including juicy apples and savory Jinya dumplings. I even bought a Sarubobo doll, a local mascot said to bring joy to families, thinking it would be a nice gift for Fatima and Omar. The apples were especially juicy and sweet. It was a charming way to spend the early morning hours amidst historical landmarks.

The Jinya-mae Morning Markets offer a quaint and traditional experience with a small number of stalls selling fresh produce, flowers, pickled vegetables, dried fruits, rice, mochi, and spices. The atmosphere was incredibly friendly, and I enjoyed chatting with the vendors and learning about their products. The market's proximity to Takayama Jinya added a touch of historical significance to the shopping experience. I felt a sense of connection to the community, a feeling that is often missing in the anonymity of big-city life.

Lunch at Hidaji: A Culinary Delight

For lunch, I decided to try Hidaji. The chef took the time to explain each dish and its significance, as well as where the inspiration came from. He foraged the mushrooms himself, and they were unlike any cultivated mushroom I've ever eaten. He paired each dish with either a sake or beer and explained how each complimented the dish. The first sake was the most delicate and beautiful sake I've ever had and was specific to his restaurant. The ayu was one of the most unique and flavorful dishes. The Hida beef was high quality with amazing flavor and was perfectly prepared.


Discover authentic Soba noodles at Hidaji, a charming Syokudo restaurant nestled in Shirakawa's picturesque landscape.

Evening Reflections and Tomorrow's Plans

As the day drew to a close, I found myself at Nomura for dinner. The ambiance was warm and inviting, and the food was simply exquisite. I savored every bite, reflecting on the day's adventures. The staff were incredibly welcoming, making me feel right at home. It was the perfect end to a day filled with history, culture, and culinary delights.


Experience authentic Japanese soba noodles at Nomura in Shirakawa—where tradition meets flavor in every bowl.

Before heading back to my ryokan, I stopped by a local bar, also named Hidaji, for a nightcap. It was a cozy spot, filled with locals and fellow travelers. I enjoyed a glass of sake, chatting with the bartender and soaking in the atmosphere. It was a great way to unwind and reflect on the day's experiences. Nestled between untouched nature in the tranquil Northern Alps area, Hidaji offers spacious Japanese-style accommodations with traditional architecture. Guests can also request massages and relax in the public hot-spring baths.


Experience the authentic taste of Japan at Hidaji, a cozy restaurant in Shirakawa known for its delicious Soba noodles and warm hospitality.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Hida Takayama Museum of Art and the Yoshijima Traditional House, eager to delve deeper into the artistic and architectural heritage of this region. I am also looking forward to exploring some local shops, hoping to find unique souvenirs for my family. As I prepare for another day of exploration, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the timeless beauty of Shirakawa-go and its surrounding areas. I am reminded of a quote by Ibn Battuta:

Traveling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.

And indeed, I feel like I am slowly but surely becoming a storyteller, eager to share my experiences with the world. I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings!