A Solo Escape to the Enchanting Con Dao Islands

Echoes of the Past

Today was a day of deep reflection here in the Con Dao Islands. Leaving behind the beaches and turquoise waters for a moment, I ventured into the heart of the islands' history, a history etched in sorrow and resilience. It's a journey that took me to places where the echoes of the past resonate strongly, reminding us of the sacrifices made and the lessons learned.

My day began with a nourishing breakfast at Madame Hà - Vegetarian Cuisine. Opting for a hearty bowl of pho, brimming with fresh herbs and tofu, it was the perfect way to prepare for the day ahead. The restaurant was a peaceful haven, and I savored every bite, appreciating the simple, wholesome flavors. Knowing I would be visiting sites of profound historical significance, I wanted to start the day with a clear mind and a full heart.


Discover exquisite vegetarian cuisine at Madame Hà in Côn Đảo – where fresh flavors meet traditional Vietnamese cooking.

From there, I headed to the infamous Côn Đảo Prison. The name itself sends shivers down your spine, and stepping through its gates felt like entering another world. The prison, once dubbed hell on earth, stands as a chilling testament to the atrocities endured by Vietnamese political prisoners during the French colonial era and the Vietnam War.


Explore Côn Đảo Prison: A profound war museum reflecting Vietnam's history of resilience and courage amidst its serene natural beauty.

Walking through the dark, narrow corridors, I could almost hear the whispers of the past. The walls seemed to absorb the suffering of those who were unjustly held within them. The most harrowing part of the visit was undoubtedly the 'tiger cages', where prisoners were subjected to unimaginable torture and inhumane conditions.

It's difficult to fathom the resilience of the human spirit in the face of such adversity. Seeing the tiny cells and the crude instruments of torture was a stark reminder of the price of freedom and the importance of safeguarding human rights. The prison is a somber place, but it's also a powerful symbol of the Vietnamese people's unwavering determination to achieve independence.

Leaving the prison, I needed a moment to collect myself. I paused to have lunch at Cây Bàng Đỏ, a local eatery known for its traditional Vietnamese cuisine. The dish I ordered was simple but satisfying: cơm tấm, broken rice with grilled pork, and a side of pickled vegetables. As I ate, I reflected on the morning's experience, the weight of history settling heavily on my shoulders. I thought of my family back in Toronto and the freedoms we often take for granted.


Experience authentic Vietnamese cuisine at Cây Bàng Đỏ in beautiful Côn Đảo – where tradition meets flavor.

Visiting such places is a stark reminder that peace and freedom are not free; they are the legacy of those who fought and sacrificed for them.

In the afternoon, I made my way to Hàng Dương Cemetery, the final resting place of thousands of Vietnamese revolutionaries and patriots. The cemetery is a sprawling expanse of white tombstones, set against a backdrop of lush greenery. It's a place of profound serenity, where the air is thick with respect and remembrance.


Explore Hang Duong Cemetery in Ba Ria - Vung Tau, a serene memorial honoring Vietnam's brave heroes and rich cultural heritage.

Among the many graves, I sought out the tomb of Võ Thị Sáu, a young woman who became a national heroine for her resistance against the French. Her story is particularly poignant, and her grave is adorned with flowers, incense, and offerings from those who continue to honor her memory. I lit an incense stick and offered a silent prayer, grateful for her sacrifice and the sacrifices of so many others.

As I walked through the cemetery, I noticed that many graves were unmarked, a testament to the countless unknown soldiers who perished in the struggle for independence. Despite the lack of names, each grave represented a life lost, a dream unfulfilled. It was a humbling experience, and I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the peace and stability that I enjoy today.

Before heading back, I decided to stop by the Wine & Coffee Bar Côn Đảo House. I opted for a strong Vietnamese coffee, a perfect pick-me-up after a long and emotionally taxing day. The cafe was cozy and inviting, and I enjoyed chatting with some of the locals, who were eager to share their stories and perspectives on the islands' history. It was a reminder that even in a place with such a dark past, life goes on, and the spirit of community endures.


Discover the tranquil charm of Côn Đảo House, where exquisite wines and aromatic coffee meet the beauty of Vietnam's serene landscapes.

For dinner, I chose Nhà Hàng Cánh Buồm, a restaurant known for its fresh seafood and lively atmosphere. I indulged in a plate of grilled prawns, savoring the flavors of the sea and the vibrant energy of the restaurant. It was a welcome contrast to the somber mood of the day, and I appreciated the opportunity to unwind and reflect on my experiences.


Discover authentic Vietnamese cuisine at Nhà Hàng Cánh Buồm in Côn Đảo, where fresh seafood meets breathtaking ocean views.

As the sun began to set, casting a golden glow over the islands, I couldn't help but feel a sense of hope. Despite the dark chapters in Con Dao's history, the islands are now a place of peace and tranquility, where visitors can come to learn, reflect, and appreciate the beauty of nature. It's a testament to the resilience of the human spirit and the power of forgiveness.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore more of Con Dao's natural beauty, with a visit to Bãi Suối Nóng and Mũi Cá Mập. I'm looking forward to immersing myself in the islands' stunning landscapes and continuing to learn about their rich and complex history. But for now, I'm grateful for the opportunity to have paid my respects to those who came before me and to have gained a deeper understanding of the Vietnamese people's unwavering spirit.

Back in my guesthouse, I took some time to reflect on the day. The visit to Côn Đảo Prison and Hàng Dương Cemetery was a sobering experience, but it was also incredibly meaningful. As someone who grew up far removed from the realities of war and political oppression, it's easy to take freedom for granted. Today was a powerful reminder of the sacrifices made by others to secure the rights and liberties that I enjoy today.

I thought of my wife, Aishath, and my son, Ibrahim, and how fortunate we are to live in a country where we can express ourselves freely and pursue our dreams without fear of persecution. I realized that it's not enough to simply appreciate these freedoms; we must also actively work to protect them and to stand up for those who are denied them.

As I drifted off to sleep, I made a promise to myself to never forget the lessons of Con Dao and to carry the stories of its people with me wherever I go. It's a reminder that even in the darkest of times, hope can endure, and the human spirit can triumph.

The weather in Con Dao in December is quite pleasant, with mild temperatures ranging from 23°C to 29°C. The humidity is relatively low, making it comfortable to enjoy outdoor activities. December is also one of the driest months in Con Dao, with occasional short rain showers.

Good night from Con Dao.