Discovering the Enchanting Forests of Yakushima with Family

Whispers of Ancient Cedars

Today was a day of pilgrimage, a journey into the heart of Yakushima to visit the venerable Jōmon Sugi. This ancient cedar, estimated to be thousands of years old, has always held a special allure for me. As someone who grew up surrounded by the vast ocean in the Maldives, the idea of standing before a living being that has witnessed centuries unfold is profoundly moving. I was eager to share this experience with Aishath and Ibrahim, hoping to instill in them a sense of wonder and respect for the natural world.


Discover the ancient beauty of Jōmon Sugi, Japan's oldest cedar tree, nestled in the lush landscapes of Yakushima's UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Our day began early, with breakfast at Aqua Cafe. The cafe was stylish, a blend of modern design and local charm. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, while Aishath chose a Western-style omelet, and Ibrahim, ever the adventurous one, tried the local fish burger. The food was delicious, and the atmosphere was vibrant, setting a positive tone for the long day ahead. It reminded me of the cozy cafes back in Toronto, but with a distinct Yakushima twist.


Discover Aqua Cafe in Yakushima - where exquisite local cuisine meets breathtaking nature in a cozy dining experience.

With our bellies full, we set off towards Yakushima National Park, our destination the Jōmon Sugi. The weather in Yakushima in June is warm and humid, and as we started our hike, the air was thick with moisture. The initial part of the trail followed an old, seldom-used railway line. This flat, relatively easy path was a welcome start, allowing us to ease into the hike. Ibrahim, full of energy, skipped ahead, while Aishath and I strolled at a more leisurely pace, enjoying the surrounding scenery.


Explore the ancient forests and breathtaking landscapes of Yakushima National Park, a jewel of Japan's natural heritage and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The railway line was a testament to Yakushima's history as a logging island. It was fascinating to imagine the bustling activity of the past, when these tracks were used to transport massive cedar logs down the mountain. Now, the railway is a silent witness to the forest's resurgence, a reminder of the delicate balance between human needs and environmental preservation. As we walked, I couldn't help but reflect on the importance of sustainable living, a principle that Aishath and I try to incorporate into our daily lives, from reducing waste to supporting local businesses. My mind drifted back to Naifaru, my hometown in the Maldives, and how crucial it is for island communities to protect their natural resources.

The forest speaks in a language only the patient can understand.

After about four hours, we reached the end of the railway and began the ascent into the heart of the forest. The trail became steeper and more challenging, but the scenery grew even more spectacular. Towering yakusugi cedars, some over a thousand years old, lined the path, their gnarled branches reaching towards the sky like ancient arms. The forest floor was carpeted with moss, creating a lush, green wonderland. It felt as though we had stepped into another world, a realm of spirits and ancient secrets.

Along the way, we encountered several other famous trees, each with its own unique character. The Meotosugi, a pair of trees that resemble a husband and wife embracing, was particularly touching. It reminded me of Aishath and me, our enduring love and partnership. We also saw the Daiosugi, one of the largest trees on the island, and Wilson's Stump, the hollowed-out remains of a giant cedar felled centuries ago. The sheer size of these trees was awe-inspiring, a testament to the power and resilience of nature.

Ibrahim, despite his initial enthusiasm, began to tire as the trail grew more difficult. Aishath, ever the caring mother, encouraged him with stories and songs, while I offered him sips of water and small snacks. It was a challenging moment, but it also brought us closer as a family. As we rested, I shared stories of my childhood in the Maldives, of swimming in the crystal-clear waters and climbing coconut trees. It helped to distract him from the physical exertion and reminded us all of the importance of cherishing our shared experiences.

Finally, after a strenuous climb, we reached the observation deck in front of the Jōmon Sugi. The sight that greeted us was breathtaking. The ancient cedar stood majestically, its massive trunk a testament to its age and endurance. It was a humbling experience to stand in its presence, to feel the weight of history and the power of nature. The Jōmon Sugi is estimated to be between 2,170 and 7,200 years old, making it the oldest and largest of the old-growth cryptomeria trees on the island. Its name is a reference to the Jōmon period of Japanese prehistory. Standing at 25.3 meters tall with a trunk circumference of 16.4 meters, it truly is a giant. I thought about how this tree had stood here for millennia, witnessing the rise and fall of civilizations, the changing of seasons, and the relentless march of time.

We spent some time quietly admiring the tree, soaking in its peaceful energy. Ibrahim, now re-energized, peppered me with questions about its age and history. Aishath simply stood in silent contemplation, her eyes filled with wonder. It was a moment of shared awe, a memory that I knew we would cherish for years to come. It was hard to believe that the discovery of this tree in 1968 sparked the movement to protect the forests of Yakushima, leading to the island's tourist industry.

The hike back down was equally challenging, but we were buoyed by the sense of accomplishment and the beauty of the surrounding forest. We stopped for a late lunch at Matsutake, a popular noodle restaurant in the southwest of Yakushima. We enjoyed a hearty meal of soba and udon noodles with tempura, savoring the flavors of local ingredients. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, a perfect place to relax and refuel after our long trek. I was impressed to learn that this restaurant is one of the last places to eat before heading into the Seibu Rindo forest.


Discover authentic soba noodles at Matsutake in Yakushima – where tradition meets flavor amidst stunning natural beauty.

Before heading back to our accommodation, we made a quick stop at Pukaridō, a local shop near the airport. I wanted to pick up a few souvenirs to remind us of our time in Yakushima. I was able to find some unique Yakusugi handicrafts and local liquors, as well as some accessories made with Yakusugi and natural stone. It was a nice way to support the local economy and take a piece of Yakushima home with us. I also learned that Pukarido has a workshop where they make original bracelets.


Explore Pukaridō in Yakushima for unique souvenirs and local liquors, capturing the essence of this beautiful island.

As we made our way back, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the magic of Yakushima. It was a day of physical exertion, but also a day of spiritual connection. We had walked in the footsteps of ancient trees, breathed in the fresh mountain air, and shared a profound experience as a family. It was a reminder of the importance of preserving our natural heritage and cherishing the simple joys of life.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Yakushima Fruit Garden, known as “Papaya no Sato,” and the Ohko Waterfall. I am excited to see what new wonders await us on this enchanting island.

For dinner, we decided to try Il Mare, an Italian restaurant near the airport. The food was a delightful fusion of Italian and Japanese flavors, using local ingredients to create innovative dishes. It was a fitting end to a day of exploration and adventure. I also liked that the restaurant was close to the airport, and that it offered views of the sea and Tanegashima. I am looking forward to what tomorrow brings.


Discover Il Mare in Yakushima for an unforgettable Italian dining experience amidst stunning natural beauty.

As I reflect on our journey to the Jōmon Sugi, I am reminded of the words of John Muir:

In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks.

Today, we sought an ancient tree, but we found so much more – a connection to history, a deeper appreciation for nature, and a stronger bond as a family. It was a day I will never forget.