Solo Adventure in the Lush Forests of Yakushima

Whispers of the Ancients

Today was a day of pilgrimage, a trek into the heart of Yakushima to commune with some of the oldest and most venerable beings on this earth. It was a challenging but deeply rewarding journey, one that left me humbled by the sheer scale and age of the natural world. The rainforest was particularly vibrant, teeming with life, and I felt a profound connection to the island's ancient spirit.

My day began with an early start at Il Mare for breakfast [i]. I wanted to fuel up properly for the long hike ahead. Opting for a hearty Italian breakfast seemed a bit out of place on a Japanese island, but it was a delicious and satisfying start to the day. The restaurant is conveniently located near the airport, and the chef clearly knows how to make the most of local ingredients with an Italian twist. I enjoyed the meal while watching the sea, thinking about the day ahead. It was a good decision to start the day with a hearty breakfast. I will need the energy for the hike.


Discover Il Mare in Yakushima for an unforgettable Italian dining experience amidst stunning natural beauty.

The bus ride to the Arakawa Trailhead was filled with anticipation. The weather in Yakushima in June is warm, with average temperatures around 24°C, but also comes with a high chance of rain. True to form, the skies were overcast, and there was a light drizzle in the air. I made sure I had my rain gear ready, thankful that I had packed appropriately, unlike my oversight with the insect repellent! However, the bus was packed with fellow hikers, all eager to witness the legendary Jōmon Sugi.

The initial part of the trail followed the old railway tracks, a relatively flat and easy path that allowed me to warm up my muscles and enjoy the surrounding scenery. The railway line has historical significance, as it was used to transport lumber down to Anbo a century ago. It's fascinating to imagine the bustling activity that once took place here, now replaced by the quiet serenity of the forest. Along the way, I passed the remains of Kosugidani, an abandoned logging village, a stark reminder of the island's past and the impact of human industry on its natural environment.

The forest is not a resource to be exploited, but a sanctuary to be revered.

After about two and a half hours, the trail diverged from the railway tracks and ascended into the forest. This is where the real challenge began. The path became steeper and more rugged, with exposed roots and rocky terrain. The humidity was also quite high, making the climb feel even more strenuous. But the beauty of the forest kept me motivated. Towering Yakusugi cedars, ancient trees covered in moss and ferns, lined the trail, creating an ethereal and magical atmosphere.

Finally, after several hours of hiking, I reached Wilson's Stump. This massive stump is the remains of a giant cedar tree, believed to have been over 3,000 years old before it was cut down in the 16th century. It was felled on the order of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, a powerful warlord, for the construction of Hoko-ji Temple in Kyoto. The sheer size of the stump is awe-inspiring, a testament to the incredible scale of these ancient trees.


Explore the breathtaking Wilson's Stump in Yakushima, a natural wonder showcasing the island's rich biodiversity and stunning landscapes.

I ventured inside the stump and was greeted by a hollow space with a small shrine and a natural spring. Looking up, I saw the famous heart-shaped view of the sky framed by the tree's interior. It was a truly remarkable sight, a moment of profound connection with nature and history. Ernest Henry Wilson, a British botanist, documented this stump in 1914, and it was later named in his honor. He recognized the island's natural beauty and advocated for its conservation.

Continuing on, the final stretch to Jōmon Sugi was the most challenging. The trail became even steeper, and I had to navigate over large boulders and slippery roots. But the anticipation of seeing the legendary tree kept me going. And then, there it was – Jōmon Sugi, standing majestically on a high ground.


Discover the ancient beauty of Jōmon Sugi, Japan's oldest cedar tree, nestled in the lush landscapes of Yakushima's UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Jōmon Sugi is estimated to be between 2,000 and 7,200 years old, making it one of the oldest trees in the world. Its gnarled and weathered trunk tells a story of resilience and survival, a living testament to the passage of time. I stood in awe, gazing up at its immense presence, feeling a sense of humility and wonder. Viewing platforms have been built about 15 meters from the tree to protect it from the impact of tourism.

The hike to Jōmon Sugi is not just a physical challenge; it's a journey through time, a connection with the ancient heart of Yakushima. It's a reminder of the importance of preserving our natural heritage and respecting the delicate balance of our ecosystems. As someone who grew up on a small island in the Maldives, I deeply appreciate the significance of protecting our natural environment. I am reflecting on my childhood, how my connection to the ocean shaped my perspective on conservation.

For lunch, I enjoyed a simple bento box that I had packed before leaving. Finding a restaurant on the trail isn't really an option, so planning ahead is essential. After spending some time admiring Jōmon Sugi, I began the long trek back down the mountain. The descent was tiring, but the knowledge that I had experienced something truly special kept me going.

Back in town, I decided to treat myself to a well-deserved dinner at Subarashi Indian Restaurant. After days of Japanese cuisine, I was craving something different, and Subarashi did not disappoint. The food was flavorful and satisfying, a perfect way to end a long and challenging day. It was nice to have some spicy food after a long day. It reminded me of home.


Discover authentic Indian flavors at Subarashi Indian Restaurant in Yakushima, where tradition meets local charm.

Finally, I stopped by Cafe＆Bar RainTree for a nightcap. It was a cozy and welcoming place to unwind after a long day of hiking. I enjoyed a quiet drink, reflecting on the incredible experiences of the day.


Experience the vibrant blend of karaoke and cafe culture at Cafe＆Bar RainTree in beautiful Yakushima, Japan.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore Yakusugi Land and see the Daio Sugi, another giant cedar [If last day of trip, merge in “Trip end”]. I'm also hoping to visit YAWARACA “The Scent of Yakushima LAB” to learn more about the island's unique flora [If last day of trip, merge in “Trip end”]. I am looking forward to another day of adventure and discovery in this magical place.

Yakushima continues to surprise me with its diverse offerings. It's a place where you can challenge yourself physically and connect with nature on a profound level. It is a place that reminds me of the beauty and fragility of our planet, reinforcing my commitment to sustainable living and responsible travel.

I am falling asleep as I write this, exhausted but content. My legs ache, but my heart is full. Yakushima is truly a special place, and I am grateful for the opportunity to explore its ancient forests and connect with its ancient spirit.