Exploring the Mystical Askja Caldera: A Solo Adventure

Askja's Embrace

The ninth day of my solo journey to Askja Caldera was nothing short of spectacular. Waking up to the crisp Icelandic air, I felt an invigorating sense of anticipation. Today was dedicated to traversing the famed Askja trail, a path promising unparalleled views of Iceland’s raw, volcanic heartland. It’s funny, you know, back in Toronto, Aisha always teases me about my need to meticulously plan everything, but out here, with just my backpack and the open trail, I feel a sense of freedom I can’t quite replicate back home. It’s a different kind of planning, one where you prepare for the unexpected and embrace the solitude.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Kjarr Restaurant. Fueling up is crucial before any hike, and Kjarr didn't disappoint. The international cuisine was a welcome change, and I savored every bite of the tasty seafood pasta and rich coffee, while enjoying the beautiful view. It's a cozy spot, perfect for gathering strength before tackling the trail. I made sure to thank the knowledgeable staff for their hospitality before heading out.


Experience authentic Icelandic cuisine at Kjarr Restaurant in Kirkjubæjarklaustur – where local flavors meet warm hospitality.

The best views come after the hardest climbs.

The Askja trail itself was an experience that transcended mere hiking. The landscape transformed into something otherworldly as I set off. The trail, well-marked with yellow sticks, guided me south across stretches of lava. The barren beauty was stark and captivating. It felt like walking on the moon, a landscape sculpted by fire and time. The August weather was surprisingly mild, with temperatures hovering around 10°C, though the wind added a touch of Iceland's characteristic bite.

The hike took me past the eastern slopes of the Dyngjufjöll massif, with the peaks of Stórakista and Litlakista standing guard. The views were breathtaking, a panoramic vista of volcanic rock and ash stretching as far as the eye could see. I paused frequently, not just to catch my breath, but to capture the stunning scenery with my camera. I was kicking myself for forgetting extra SD cards, though. Note to self: always double-check the essentials!

The trail meandered across old lava streams that had flowed from the Askja caldera through Öskjuop. The black aa lava of Vikrahraun, a stark reminder of the 1961 eruption, added another layer of geological history to the landscape. As I continued, the trail eventually merged with the jeep track leading to Dreki-hut.

Around midday, I stopped for lunch at Systrakaffi. This family-run restaurant in Kirkjubæjarklaustur was a delightful surprise. I opted for the Arctic char, a local specialty, served with baby potatoes and a delicate white wine sauce. The flavors were distinctly Icelandic, fresh and satisfying. I also couldn't resist trying a slice of their homemade cake, a sweet indulgence that provided the perfect energy boost for the afternoon’s hike. Systrakaffi is known for its diverse menu, and I can see why it’s a favorite stop for travelers exploring the South Coast.


Experience the rich flavors of Iceland at Systrakaffi in Kirkjubæjarklaustur – where local ingredients meet culinary artistry.

After lunch, the trail led me further into the heart of Askja Caldera. The sheer scale of the caldera was awe-inspiring, a testament to the immense forces that shaped this land. I finally reached Öskjuvatn, Iceland's second deepest lake, its still surface reflecting the dramatic cliffs that surrounded it. The nearby Víti crater, with its warm, sulfurous waters, beckoned. I decided to take the plunge, carefully navigating the steep, sometimes slippery slope down to the water.

Swimming in Víti was an unforgettable experience. The water was a milky blue-green, a result of the geothermal activity beneath. The contrast between the cool air and the warm water was invigorating. I floated on my back, gazing up at the sky, feeling utterly dwarfed by the immensity of the caldera. It was a moment of pure tranquility, a chance to connect with nature on a profound level.

As the day drew to a close, I began my descent, retracing my steps along the Askja trail. The setting sun cast long shadows across the landscape, painting the volcanic rock in hues of orange and gold. I felt a deep sense of satisfaction, a feeling of accomplishment that comes from challenging oneself and experiencing something truly extraordinary.

Before heading back to my campsite, I decided to treat myself to dinner at Gígur Restaurant. This restaurant, part of Hotel Laki, offered a panoramic view of the Vatnajökull glacier. The food was exceptional, with a focus on locally sourced ingredients and sustainable practices. I savored every bite, reflecting on the day’s adventures.


Experience authentic Icelandic cuisine at Gígur in Kirkjubæjarklaustur, where every meal tells a story of local flavors and warm hospitality.

To cap off the evening, I made a detour to SKY Bar. While I knew it was located in Reykjavík, a considerable distance from Askja Caldera, the allure of a majestic lounge experience was too strong to resist. Luckily, the drive was worth it. SKY Bar provided a stunning view of the city, and I enjoyed a well-deserved drink while soaking in the vibrant atmosphere. It was a perfect way to unwind after a long day of hiking.


Experience breathtaking views and vibrant nightlife at SKY Bar, the ultimate lounge destination in the heart of Reykjavík, Iceland.

As I sit here now, writing this entry, I can’t help but feel grateful for the experiences this solo trip has afforded me. The Askja trail was more than just a hike; it was a journey into the heart of Iceland’s volcanic soul. Tomorrow, I plan to explore Drekagil, and perhaps find some souvenirs at Spúútnik. Each day brings new adventures, and I’m eager to see what tomorrow holds.

I am happy to report that I didn't forget anything essential today, and I am looking forward to what tomorrow will bring.

The solitude of the Icelandic highlands offers a unique opportunity for introspection and connection with nature. It's a far cry from the hustle and bustle of Toronto, but it's a welcome change of pace. I find myself thinking about Aisha and Zayn, missing them dearly, but also cherishing this time for myself. Perhaps one day, I'll bring them back here, to share the magic of Askja Caldera with my family. Until then, I'll continue to explore, to discover, and to share my experiences with you all. I hope you’ll join me for the next leg of my journey.