Solo Art Exploration on Naoshima Island

Day 2: Delving Deeper into Naoshima's Artistic Heart

Today was a day of quiet contemplation and artistic immersion. Naoshima continues to surprise me with its seamless blend of art and everyday life. It's a place where the boundaries between the two blur, inviting you to see the world in a new light. The weather was moderately chilly, around 53°F (12°C), with a gentle breeze, perfect for walking between the art houses and museums. I was especially excited to experience the Art House Project and the Lee Ufan Museum, each promising a unique perspective on art and space.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Café Ippo. Finding it was a little tricky, as it blended in seamlessly with the other traditional Japanese homes in the area. The cafe is near Minamidera, which was perfect for my itinerary. Inside, I was greeted by a friendly couple who served delicious coffee and a simple, satisfying vegan breakfast. The cozy atmosphere and the gentle hum of conversation created a perfect start to the day. It felt like stepping into someone's home, a feeling that resonated with the spirit of the Art House Project I was about to explore.

First on the agenda was the Art House Project, specifically Minamidera. Designed by the renowned architect Tadao Ando, Minamidera is built on the former site of a temple. Before visiting, I made sure to head to the Honmura Lounge & Archive to make a reservation, as visitor numbers are limited to preserve the experience. The structure itself is a work of art, a concrete enclosure that plays with light and shadow. Inside, James Turrell’s artwork, Backside of the Moon, challenges your perception of light and space. The experience is difficult to describe; it's something you need to feel. The interplay of darkness and gradually emerging light is both disorienting and deeply moving. It’s an introspective journey that stays with you long after you leave.


Discover the Art House Project: Minamidera in Naoshima, where modern art meets traditional Japanese architecture in a serene setting.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

After Minamidera, I walked over to Kadoya, another gem within the Art House Project. This 200-year-old restored residence offered a completely different artistic experience. Kadoya was the first house transformed in the Art House Project, featuring “Sea of Time,” a captivating installation by Tatsuo Miyajima. The artwork uses digital counters submerged in water to symbolize the flow of time and human connection. The townspeople of Naoshima participated in the creation of the work Sea of Time '98 by Tatsuo Miyajima, which also served as an opportunity to interject modern art into the lives of the islanders and the local area. The blend of traditional architecture with contemporary art was seamless, creating a space that felt both old and new. I found myself reflecting on the passage of time and the interconnectedness of humanity.


Explore the harmonious blend of traditional Japanese architecture and contemporary art at Naoshima's Art House Project: Kadoya.

For lunch, I decided to try Aisunao, a restaurant in Honmura known for its vegan-friendly dishes and use of organically grown ingredients. Luckily, I arrived before the lunch rush and was seated immediately. Aisunao is a Japanese restaurant located in a converted traditional house (built around 80 years ago) in the Honmura district of Naoshima Town. The restaurant is easily recognized by the blue entrance curtain featuring a stylized and very cute depiction of a rice bowl. I ordered one of their lunch sets featuring unpolished rice and seasonal vegetables. The flavors were simple, yet satisfying, and the atmosphere was peaceful. It was a perfect spot to recharge before continuing my exploration.


Discover Aisunao in Naoshima: Delight in creative vegan dishes amidst Japan's stunning art island.

In the afternoon, I made my way to the Lee Ufan Museum, a collaboration between the Korean artist Lee Ufan and Tadao Ando. The museum is a short walk from the Benesse House, set in a tranquil valley surrounded by hills and the ocean. As I approached, I was struck by the building's minimalist design, a semi-subterranean structure that blends harmoniously with the natural landscape. The Lee Ufan Museum mixes geometrically shaped reinforced concrete with nature and open spaces that accentuate the artwork displayed within. Inside, the museum houses Lee Ufan's paintings and sculptures, spanning from the 1970s to the present day. His works, characterized by their simplicity and focus on materials, resonated deeply with me. The museum offered a space for quiet contemplation, inviting me to reflect on the relationship between art, nature, and architecture.


Explore the serene Lee Ufan Museum in Naoshima, where modern art meets nature in a harmonious blend of minimalism and tranquility.

As evening approached, I chose to have dinner at Chikurin, an izakaya known for its authentic Japanese flavors and cozy atmosphere. The restaurant is run by one man who does everything from taking orders to cooking food, serving drinks, and washing dishes. I ordered a selection of small dishes, including grilled fish and local vegetables, and enjoyed a glass of sake. It was a relaxing end to a day filled with art and reflection.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Chikurin in Naoshima, where tradition meets flavor in a cozy izakaya setting.

To cap off the evening, I ventured to Bar SARU in Miyanoura. The bar was small and intimate, with a friendly atmosphere. I enjoyed a local beer and chatted with some of the other patrons, mostly fellow travelers who were drawn to Naoshima for its art scene. The music was a mix of reggae rhythms, creating a laid-back vibe.


Discover the vibrant nightlife of Naoshima at Bar SARU, where local beers and a cozy atmosphere await every traveler.

Reflecting on the day, I am struck by how Naoshima manages to create a space for both artistic expression and personal reflection. The Art House Project, Minamidera, Kadoya and the Lee Ufan Museum each offered a unique perspective on art and its relationship to space, time, and the human experience. Tomorrow, I plan to explore more of the Art House Project, including Haisha, and visit the iconic Yellow Pumpkin. I’m also hoping to visit the Art Island Center for some unique souvenirs. With each passing day, Naoshima reveals more of its soul, inviting me to slow down, look deeper, and appreciate the beauty that surrounds me.

The island is more than just a collection of museums and installations; it's a living, breathing work of art that engages all your senses. I am eager to see what tomorrow brings.