Solo Pilgrimage through Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

City Lights and Botanical Nights

As my pilgrimage through the Kumano Kodo draws to a close, I find myself reflecting on the journey's profound impact. The serene trails and spiritual sites have left an indelible mark on my soul, offering a sense of peace and introspection that I will carry with me long after I leave Japan. Today, I traded the ancient forests for the modern cityscape of Osaka, eager to experience a different facet of this vibrant country before heading back to Berlin.



My final day in Japan began with a hearty Japanese breakfast at Sansaro Cafe. It was a quaint spot, and I enjoyed the simple, nourishing meal before setting out for Sakai. The plan was to soak in some panoramic views and artistic experiences before my flight home. It's funny how travel can be both physically demanding and deeply restorative, a balance I've come to cherish. I made sure to pack my camera, ready to capture the last moments of this incredible journey. I was a little sad that Hans couldn’t join me this time, but I know he was holding down the fort back in Berlin, and I can’t wait to share all my stories with him over a home-cooked Vietnamese meal.



My first stop was the Observatory Lobby in Sakai City Hall. Situated on the 21st floor, it promised a 360-degree view of the city and surrounding areas. As I stepped out of the elevator, I was immediately struck by the expansive vista. From 80 meters high, the city unfolded beneath me, a tapestry of urban life interwoven with historical landmarks. I could spot the Daisen Kofun (the tomb of Emperor Nintoku), a keyhole-shaped burial mound, the largest in Japan, a testament to the country's rich history. In the distance, I could make out Mount Rokko, Abeno Harukas, Mount Ikoma, and Mount Kongo, each adding to the breathtaking panorama.


Discover stunning panoramic views of Sakai at the Observatory Lobby of Sakai City Hall, a perfect spot for photography and local insights.

I spent a good hour there, simply absorbing the view and reflecting on my journey. The city seemed to stretch out forever, a symbol of the endless possibilities that travel offers. It was a clear day, and the visibility was excellent, allowing me to appreciate the intricate details of the urban landscape. I even grabbed a coffee at the cafe located within the lobby, savoring the moment and etching the scene into my memory.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found in the quiet moments of reflection, allowing us to fully appreciate the journey we've undertaken.

Next on my itinerary was the Daisen Park Japanese Garden. This garden, located within Daisen Park, is designed as a traditional circular garden, inspired by Sakai's history as a trading point with China. As I entered through the traditional Japanese gate, I was transported to a world of tranquility. The pathways, carefully laid out with gravel and stone, guided me through a serene landscape of meticulously arranged plants, trees, and water features.


Explore the serene beauty of Daisen Park Japanese Garden in Sakai, Osaka, where traditional landscaping meets tranquil nature.

The garden was established in 1989 to commemorate the formation of Sakai City, and its design pays homage to the classical gardens of the Edo period. A large pond, complete with colorful koi fish, served as the centerpiece, its calm waters reflecting the surrounding greenery. Small bridges and stepping stones invited me to pause and admire the reflections, creating a sense of harmony and peace. I took my time wandering through the garden, appreciating the artistry and attention to detail that went into its creation. It was a perfect spot for contemplation, a place to gather my thoughts and prepare for the journey home.



One of the highlights was the traditional tea house, where I enjoyed a cup of matcha and a Japanese confection. The tea ceremony was a serene experience, a ritual of grace and mindfulness that allowed me to fully appreciate the present moment. As I sipped the tea, I gazed out at the garden, feeling a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience such beauty.



As evening approached, I made my way to the teamLab Botanical Garden Osaka. This was an experience I had been particularly looking forward to, and it did not disappoint. Unlike the teamLab exhibitions in Tokyo, the Osaka Botanical Garden is an entirely outdoor experience, open only at night. As I stepped into the garden, I was immediately immersed in a world of light and sound, where art and nature seamlessly blended.


Discover the captivating blend of nature and art at teamLab Botanical Garden Osaka, a unique destination for tourists seeking beauty and inspiration.

The garden featured a series of interactive installations that responded to the environment and the presence of visitors. One of the most striking displays was the Sculptures of Dissipative Birds in the Wind, which created colorful patterns that flowed and dissolved in mesmerizing waves. The lights reflected on the lake water, creating a magical effect that was both enchanting and awe-inspiring. I spent hours wandering through the garden, interacting with the art and soaking in the atmosphere. It was a unique and immersive experience, a perfect way to celebrate the end of my pilgrimage.



I was so glad that I decided to visit the teamLab Botanical Garden, even though I was tired from all the walking during the previous days. It’s open at night, which is great as there are not that many things to do in the evening in Japan, apart from eating. The outdoor setting makes it a relaxing experience and it’s great for kids, because they can run around. I only wish Hans and the kids were here to enjoy it with me. Next time, for sure!



For dinner, I decided to try Akihei, a restaurant in Tanabe known for its traditional Japanese cuisine and vegan options. As someone who appreciates both cultural experiences and plant-based meals, this seemed like the perfect choice. The restaurant had a warm and inviting atmosphere, and the staff were incredibly friendly and accommodating. I ordered the vegan set meal, which included a variety of dishes made with local, seasonal ingredients. Each dish was a work of art, beautifully presented and bursting with flavor. It was a fitting end to my culinary journey through Japan.


Discover the essence of Japanese culinary art at Akihei in Tanabe - where tradition meets flavor in every exquisite dish.

Before heading to the airport, I made a quick stop at the Kumano Kodo Information Center. I wanted to pick up a few souvenirs for Hans and the kids, something to remind them of my adventure. I found a beautiful handcrafted wooden carving of a yakushi nyorai, the buddha of healing, which I thought would be a perfect memento. After all, this journey was all about healing and introspection, and I wanted to share that with my family.


Explore Kumano Kodo Information Center, your essential stop for discovering Japan's sacred pilgrimage trails and rich cultural heritage.

As I sit here at the airport, waiting for my flight back to Berlin, I can't help but feel a sense of accomplishment. This solo pilgrimage through the Kumano Kodo has been an incredible experience, one that has challenged me both physically and mentally. I have walked through ancient forests, visited sacred sites, and immersed myself in the rich culture of Japan. I have learned a lot about myself and the world around me, and I am grateful for every moment of this journey. Although I missed Hans and the kids terribly, I know that this experience has made me a better person, and I can’t wait to share my stories and insights with them.



Tomorrow, I will be back in Berlin, back to my routine, back to my life as a geriatric nurse. But I know that a part of me will always remain here, on the ancient trails of the Kumano Kodo. Until next time, Japan. Sayonara!