Solo Pilgrimage through Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

A Day of Reflection and Exploration

Today marked the sixth day of my solo pilgrimage through Kumano Kodo, and it was a profound blend of physical challenge and spiritual awakening. Leaving behind the familiar comforts of Jokiin in Koya, I embarked on a journey that promised both scenic beauty and deep introspection. As a geriatric nurse from Berlin, originally from Buon Ma Thuot, Vietnam, I find solace in the quiet moments of reflection that travel provides, a chance to recharge my empathetic spirit and reconnect with myself.


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.

The day began early with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. It's a charming little place , and I opted for the bagel – a delightful fusion of Japanese and Western culinary styles. Fueled and ready, I set off to tackle the Kumano-Kodo Kohechi Pilgrimage Route.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

The Kohechi route is known as one of the more challenging paths, connecting Koyasan to Kumano. The trails wind through dense forests and over mountain ridges, offering stunning panoramic views at every turn. The physical exertion was intense, but the serene environment helped clear my mind. I was completely alone with my thoughts, save for the occasional rustling of leaves or the distant call of a bird. It was a far cry from the bustling streets of Berlin, and I cherished every moment of it.

The journey is the destination; every step on the Kumano Kodo is a step closer to understanding oneself.

As I hiked, I couldn't help but reflect on my life back in Berlin with Hans. Our life together is comfortable and predictable, but sometimes I feel a longing for something more, a deeper connection to the world and myself. This pilgrimage is my attempt to find that missing piece, to understand what truly matters, and to bring that understanding back home.

After several hours of rigorous hiking, I arrived at the Kumano Boat River Cruise. The transition from mountain trail to tranquil river was a welcome change. The boat gently glided along the Kumano River, offering a unique perspective of the Yoshino Kumano National Park. The lush greenery and rugged rock formations lining the riverbanks were breathtaking. The gentle rocking of the boat and the soothing sounds of the water created a meditative atmosphere.


Discover the tranquil beauty of Wakayama on the Kumano Boat River Cruise, a serene journey through history and nature's splendor.

The Kumano River has historically been a vital part of the pilgrimage route , used by emperors and nobles to travel between sacred sites. I imagined them, centuries ago, making the same journey, seeking spiritual enlightenment. It was humbling to be part of such a long and rich tradition.

The cruise lasted about ninety minutes , and by the end, I felt a sense of profound peace. It was as if the river had washed away all my anxieties and uncertainties, leaving me refreshed and renewed. The river cruise concluded near Kumano Hayatama Taisha , one of the three grand shrines of Kumano. I took some time to explore the shrine, offering a prayer for continued strength and guidance on my journey.

For lunch, I treated myself to a meal at Hinoki Steak House. After a morning of hiking and cruising, I was ravenous. I opted for the Kumano beef hamburger , a local specialty. It was juicy and flavorful, a perfect reward for my efforts. The chef was incredibly friendly and professional , making the dining experience even more enjoyable. It's fascinating to see how local ingredients are used to create such delicious dishes.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

The afternoon was dedicated to exploring more of Yoshino Kumano National Park. The park is vast and diverse, with mountains, forests, and coastlines all within easy reach. I hiked through some of the park's trails, marveling at the natural beauty around me. The air was fresh and clean, and the scenery was simply stunning.


Explore the breathtaking beauty of Yoshino Kumano National Park, a serene escape into nature's heart in Japan's Nara Prefecture, rich in culture and adventure.

As evening approached, I made my way to Tororoya for dinner. I decided to try the Tororo rice dish, which was absolutely delicious. It was a unique culinary experience, a blend of flavors and textures that I had never encountered before. It's these unexpected discoveries that make traveling so exciting.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.

To cap off the day, I decided to visit Orchard Knight for a relaxing drink. The bar had a cozy and inviting atmosphere , and I ordered a local craft beer. As I sipped my drink, I reflected on the day's events. It had been a challenging but incredibly rewarding day, filled with physical exertion, spiritual reflection, and natural beauty.


Discover the vibrant nightlife of Tokyo at Orchard Knight, where innovative cocktails and a stylish atmosphere create an unforgettable experience.

Tomorrow, I will be heading towards Sakai City Hall to visit the Observatory Lobby and the teamLab Botanical Garden Osaka , before spending some time at the Daisen Park Japanese Garden. It’s hard to believe that my pilgrimage is coming to an end. I am already feeling a sense of nostalgia, but I know that the lessons I have learned and the experiences I have had will stay with me long after I return to Berlin.

This journey has been more than just a vacation; it has been a transformative experience. I have reconnected with myself, challenged my limits, and discovered a newfound appreciation for the beauty and tranquility of nature. As I prepare for the final day of my pilgrimage, I am filled with gratitude and anticipation for what lies ahead.