Solo Pilgrimage through Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Finding My Footing on the Kumano Kodo

Today marked the beginning of my solo pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo, and what a start it has been! Leaving Berlin behind, with Hans waving me off at the airport, felt like stepping out of one life and into another. The journey here was long, but as I finally set foot on these ancient trails, a sense of tranquility washed over me. This trip is more than just a vacation; it's a quest for inner peace and a deeper connection with myself and the world around me.

My day began in Hongu, where I fueled up with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. The owner, Shino, was incredibly welcoming, and the bagels made with natural yeast were just what I needed to kickstart my day. I opted for the optional shuttle service from my guesthouse, which made the morning so much easier. It's inspiring to see someone so passionate about local produce and healthy homemade meals.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.
From there, I headed to Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of the three grand shrines of Kumano. Climbing the 158 stone steps to the main building was a bit of a challenge, but the sight of the cypress bark roof and the surrounding cedar trees made it worth every step. The shrine was moved to its current location after floods in 1889, and you can still sense the history and spiritual significance of this place. I took my time to explore the grounds, reflecting on the journey of pilgrims who have walked these paths for centuries. It's amazing to think that emperors and nobles have visited this very site, seeking blessings and guidance.


Discover the spiritual beauty of Kumano Hongu Taisha, a historic Shinto shrine in Wakayama, Japan, renowned for its stunning architecture and serene landscapes.

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.

Next on the itinerary was Oyunohara, the original location of Kumano Hongu Taisha. The entrance to Oyunohara is marked by the largest torii gate in the world, standing at an impressive 33.9 meters tall. It's hard to describe the feeling of standing beneath such a massive structure, knowing that it symbolizes the division between the secular and spiritual worlds. The gate was erected in 2000 and weighs 172 tons. The sheer scale of it is humbling. Legend says that the Kumano deities descended into the branches of a giant oak tree here, adding to the mystical atmosphere. It was so beautiful to see the immense torii silhouetted against the sky.


Discover the spiritual essence of Japan at Oyunohara, a breathtaking Shinto shrine and historical landmark nestled in the heart of Wakayama's Kumano Kodo.
Before heading to lunch I stopped by Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu to pick up some local souvenirs. I bought some Otonachi-cha tea, grown in the Fushiogami district. I also saw Minachi-gasa headpieces, made by the local craftsman, but decided against purchasing one.


Discover local flavors and beautiful scenery at Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu, the ideal rest stop in Wakayama Prefecture.
For lunch, I enjoyed a peaceful meal at Fushiogami Teahouse. This quaint café offered a serene escape, surrounded by the natural beauty of the Kumano region. It was a perfect spot to relax and recharge before continuing my journey. The teahouse is run by local ladies and is a good spot to catch a glimpse of the Kumano Hongu Taisha.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.
My last stop for the day was the Kumano Kodo Information Center. Here, I gathered more information about the pilgrimage routes and the history of the area. The staff were incredibly helpful, providing maps and pamphlets in English. It's fascinating to learn about the UNESCO World Heritage status of these sacred sites and pilgrimage routes. The Kumano Hongu Heritage Center, which is located in front of the Kumano Hongu Taisha, is a focal point for information and educational exchange in the area.


Explore the Kumano Kodo Information Center for a deep dive into the history and culture of Japan's ancient pilgrimage routes.
As the day drew to a close, I treated myself to dinner at Hinoki Steak House. While I was hoping to try the Kumano beef steak, I settled for the hamburg steak, which was still delicious. The restaurant has been around since 1972, so it is a local staple.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.
Reflecting on today's experiences, I feel a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to embark on this solo pilgrimage. The Kumano Kodo is a place of profound beauty and spiritual significance, and I'm excited to see what tomorrow brings. I'm looking forward to visiting Nachi Waterfall, Kumano-Nachi Taisha, and Seiganto-ji tomorrow. I might stop by Why Kumano for a drink in the evening. As I settle into my accommodations for the night, I can't help but feel a sense of anticipation for the adventures that lie ahead. The peace and quiet of this place are a welcome change from the hustle and bustle of Berlin, and I'm grateful for the chance to disconnect from the world and reconnect with myself. I should remember to pack sunscreen tomorrow, as I forgot it today!

The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it's a journey of self-discovery and spiritual awakening. I feel so lucky to experience that and share that with you all. I hope you follow along with me on this journey!

Tomorrow, I plan to continue my journey towards the Nachi area, known for its stunning waterfall and more sacred sites. I've heard the views are breathtaking, and I'm eager to experience them firsthand. Until then, goodnight from the serene Kumano Kodo.