Solo Pilgrimage through Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Echoes of Serenity

Today was a day of profound connection, a deep dive into the heart of Kumano's spiritual landscape. I woke up with a sense of anticipation, knowing that I was about to witness some of the most iconic and sacred sites in Japan. The air was fresh, carrying the scent of pine and the promise of rain, a perfect setting for a day of pilgrimage and reflection. It’s funny how sometimes the most unexpected journeys can lead to the most profound discoveries.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Yorozuya Eatery. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, complete with grilled fish, miso soup, and pickled vegetables. Fuelled up and ready to go, I set off towards my first destination: Nachi Waterfall.


Discover the stunning Nachi Waterfall in Wakayama, Japan—one of the tallest and most sacred waterfalls in the country, surrounded by lush nature and rich culture.
The bus ride to Nachi Falls was an experience in itself. The winding roads offered glimpses of lush greenery and quaint villages, each turn revealing a new facet of the Kumano region's natural beauty. As we approached the falls, I could hear the distant roar of the water, a primal sound that resonated deep within me. It was a sound that spoke of the earth's raw power and the enduring spirit of nature.

Arriving at Nachi Waterfall was nothing short of breathtaking. Standing at 133 meters, it's the tallest waterfall in Japan with a single uninterrupted drop. The sheer force of the water plunging into the basin below was mesmerizing, a spectacle that commanded reverence and awe. The mist rising from the falls created a cool, ethereal atmosphere, enveloping everything in a soft, dreamlike haze.

In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks.

I took my time to absorb the scene, watching as the sunlight filtered through the trees, casting dancing shadows on the cascading water. It was easy to understand why this place has been revered as sacred for centuries. According to local beliefs, the waterfall is home to a Shinto deity, and even today, priests perform rituals and offerings at its base. The air was thick with the scent of incense, adding to the mystical ambiance.

For a closer look, I hiked the 135 steps to Hiro-jinja Shrine, a small shrine with a viewing platform. From there, the view was even more spectacular. I could feel the spray of the waterfall on my face and hear the thunderous roar echoing through the valley. I even braved a taste of the waterfall's water from a dragon-mouthed font, hoping for a touch of good fortune and longevity.

Next on my itinerary was Kumano-Nachi Taisha , a Shinto shrine located halfway up Nachi Mountain.


Explore the spiritual heart of Wakayama at Kumano-Nachi Taisha, a stunning Shinto shrine surrounded by natural beauty and rich cultural history.
The path to the shrine was a steep climb, but the effort was well worth it. Along the way, I passed through the Daimon-zaka , an impressive cobblestone staircase lined with towering cedar trees. It felt like stepping back in time, walking in the footsteps of countless pilgrims who had made this journey before me.

Reaching Kumano-Nachi Taisha, I was struck by the beauty and serenity of the shrine complex. The vermilion buildings stood in stark contrast to the surrounding greenery, creating a visually stunning scene. The shrine has a rich history, dating back over 1,700 years. It has long been a place of worship, attracting emperors, nobles, and commoners alike.

I took a moment to admire the intricate details of the shrine's architecture, the graceful curves of the roofs, and the ornate carvings that adorned the walls. I also noticed a large camphor tree, estimated to be nearly a thousand years old. It's considered sacred, and visitors can even enter its hollow trunk to feel its ancient presence. I didn't hesitate to step inside, placing my hands on the rough bark and closing my eyes. It felt like connecting with the very soul of the mountain.

After exploring Kumano-Nachi Taisha, I made my way to Seiganto-ji , a Buddhist temple located adjacent to the shrine.


Discover the tranquility and beauty of Seiganto-ji, a historic Buddhist temple overlooking the stunning Nachi Falls in Wakayama, Japan.
What’s fascinating is that for a long time, Kumano-Nachi Taisha Shrine and Seiganto-ji Temple functioned as a single entity, showcasing the harmonious blend of Shintoism and Buddhism. However, during the Meiji Restoration in the 19th century, the government separated the two religions. Despite this separation, the two sites remain closely connected, representing a unique aspect of Japanese religious history.

Seiganto-ji is known for its stunning three-story pagoda, which offers a breathtaking view of Nachi Waterfall. The pagoda was initially built in 1972 to commemorate 300 years since the previous pagoda burned down. I climbed to the top, eager to capture the iconic image of the pagoda and waterfall together. And it was indeed a sight to behold. The vibrant red of the pagoda against the backdrop of the cascading water was a picture-perfect moment.

Inside the pagoda, I found statues of different deities on each floor. The top floor housed a statue of the Thousand-Armed Kannon, the bodhisattva of compassion, which seemed particularly fitting given the serene and spiritual atmosphere of the temple.

For lunch, I stopped at Sansaro Cafe , a charming spot known for its vegetarian-friendly menu.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.
I enjoyed a light and refreshing meal of soba noodles with mountain vegetables, a perfect way to refuel after a morning of hiking and exploration. I was tempted by the dinner options, but I'll have to save that for another visit.

In the late afternoon, with a sense of accomplishment and contentment, I decided to treat myself to a drink at Why Kumano , a local bar known for its friendly atmosphere.


Experience the perfect blend of comfort, culture, and culinary delights at Why Kumano, your gateway to the enchanting Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.
I sipped on a glass of local sake, chatting with fellow travelers and sharing stories of our adventures. The owner was incredibly welcoming, making me feel right at home. It was the perfect way to unwind and reflect on the day's experiences.

As the day drew to a close, I couldn't help but feel a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the beauty and spirituality of Kumano. It was a day that touched my soul, leaving me with a renewed sense of peace and connection to nature.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore Kumano Hayatama Taisha, Koyazaka Slope, and Kamikura Shrine. I’m also hoping to visit the Toretore Market for some local finds. As I prepare for another day of exploration, I’m filled with excitement for what lies ahead. The Kumano Kodo continues to surprise and inspire me, and I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.

The weather today was quite pleasant, with mild to warm temperatures. The highs were around 19-20°C, and the lows were between 14-17°C. There was a mix of sunny and cloudy periods, with a slight chance of rain. Considering the weather, I was glad to have packed my rain jacket, just in case, as well as my trusty hiking boots.

I am really looking forward to tomorrow, and the chance to explore more of what Kumano Kodo has to offer.