Solo Exploration of Naoshima Island's Art and Culture

A Day of Artistic Immersion

Today was a profound exploration of art and perception here on Naoshima. From the challenging darkness of the Art House Project: Minamidera, to the serene minimalism of the Lee Ufan Museum and the playful energy of the Red Pumpkin, each experience offered a unique lens through which to view the world. It's incredible how this small island manages to pack such a powerful artistic punch.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Café Ippo. I opted for the traditional Japanese breakfast set, a simple yet satisfying meal that fueled me up for the day's adventures. The cafe itself had a cozy, welcoming atmosphere, and I enjoyed chatting with the friendly staff about my plans for the day. It felt like a great way to connect with the local community before diving into the art scene.

First on the itinerary was the Art House Project: Minamidera. This installation, a collaboration between artist James Turrell and architect Tadao Ando, is housed in a converted temple and plays with your perception of light. I arrived early, as recommended, to secure a timed entry ticket.

The experience inside Minamidera was unlike anything I’ve ever encountered. I was led into a pitch-black room and guided to a bench. The instructions were simple: sit and wait for my eyes to adjust. Initially, there was nothing to see, just an oppressive darkness that felt almost disorienting. But as time passed, a subtle glow began to emerge, gradually revealing a hidden space within the darkness. It was an exercise in patience and perception, a reminder of how much we rely on sight and how much we miss when we don't truly focus.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

Leaving Minamidera, I felt a sense of renewal, my senses heightened. The experience lingered with me as I walked towards my next destination: the Lee Ufan Museum.

The Lee Ufan Museum, another Ando creation, is dedicated to the work of Korean minimalist artist Lee Ufan. The museum itself is a work of art, seamlessly blending into the natural landscape. The architecture, with its clean lines and concrete walls, creates a sense of tranquility and contemplation.

Inside, Lee Ufan's sculptures and paintings invite quiet reflection. His work often combines natural materials like stone and wood with industrial elements like steel and glass, creating a dialogue between the organic and the man-made. I found myself drawn to the simplicity and the subtle beauty of his art. Each piece seemed to encourage a slower, more deliberate way of seeing, a welcome contrast to the fast-paced world I usually inhabit. The museum's location, nestled in a valley surrounded by hills and the Seto Inland Sea, adds to the overall sense of peace. It’s a place where art, architecture, and nature converge, creating a truly immersive experience.

For lunch, I stopped at Issen, located within the Benesse House Museum. I opted for a traditional Kaiseki-style bento box, a beautifully arranged assortment of small dishes. The food was exquisite, and the presentation was a work of art in itself. The restaurant's large windows offered stunning views of the Inland Sea, making it a truly memorable dining experience.

After lunch, I made my way to the iconic Red Pumpkin. Designed by Yayoi Kusama, this vibrant sculpture stands near the Miyanoura Port, welcoming visitors to Naoshima. Its bright yellow exterior, covered in black polka dots, is instantly recognizable and has become a symbol of the island.


Explore the vibrant Red Pumpkin in Naoshima, a masterpiece of contemporary art by Yayoi Kusama, set against stunning coastal views.

I couldn't resist the urge to climb inside the pumpkin and experience the world through its polka-dotted apertures. The distorted views of the surrounding scenery were both whimsical and thought-provoking. It’s a playful reminder that art can be both fun and meaningful. The Red Pumpkin is more than just a sculpture; it's an invitation to engage with art and nature in a unique and interactive way.

As the sun began to set, I decided to treat myself to dinner at Ebisukamo. This cozy restaurant is known for its incredible food and friendly atmosphere. I sampled a variety of dishes, including fresh sashimi, grilled fish, and local vegetables. The owner was incredibly welcoming, making me feel right at home. The portions were on the smaller side, but the quality of the food more than made up for it. It was the perfect way to end a day filled with art and exploration.

Finally, I ended my evening at Bar SARU. This cozy spot is known for being the only bar on Naoshima open late. I enjoyed a glass of local Naoshima beer while chatting with some fellow travelers. The atmosphere was relaxed and convivial, a great way to unwind after a long day of sightseeing. The bartender was friendly and offered some insights into the local art scene. It’s these kinds of interactions that make traveling so rewarding.

Tomorrow, I plan to continue my exploration of Naoshima with visits to the Art House Project: Go'o Shrine, the Ando Museum, and the Naoshima Public Bath I Love Yu. I’m also looking forward to trying some local cuisine at Little Plum for breakfast, Kinosaki Udon Naoshima for lunch and Raumen Tsumu for dinner. And before I leave the island I'll be sure to visit Mikazukishoten.

Naoshima continues to surprise and inspire me. It's a place where art is not confined to museums but is woven into the fabric of everyday life. I am eager to see what tomorrow brings.

Reflecting on my day, I'm struck by how art can transform a place and a person. Naoshima is more than just an island; it's a canvas for creativity, a space for contemplation, and a reminder of the power of human expression. As I head back to My Lodge Naoshima, I feel grateful for the experiences and the insights I've gained today. It’s moments like these that make travel so enriching and meaningful.


Discover affordable comfort at My Lodge Naoshima, an ideal base for exploring the art-laden island while enjoying local cuisine and free parking.