Exploring the Ancient Forests of Yakushima

Echoes of Ancient Giants

Today was a day etched in time, a pilgrimage into the heart of Yakushima's ancient forests. It was a journey not just through kilometers of trails, but through millennia of history, witnessing the silent sentinels that have stood watch over this island for ages. I've always felt a deep connection to nature, a sense of belonging that Bermuda instilled in me from a young age, and today, surrounded by these ancient cedars, that connection felt stronger than ever.

Our day began early, fueled by excitement and a quick breakfast at the Yakushima Airport Restaurant. I grabbed a simple but satisfying bite, knowing we had a long trek ahead of us. The convenience of the restaurant right at the airport is great, especially when you're trying to maximize every minute on this incredible island.

The Jōmon Sugi hike is no joke. It's about 22 kilometers, and the Yakushima Tourism Association rates it as a 4 out of 5 for difficulty. They weren't kidding! The first part of the trail, about 8 kilometers, follows the old Anbo railway line. It's mostly flat, which makes for a relatively easy start, but after a while, the repetitiveness can get to you. Still, it was fascinating to imagine the history of this railway, built a century ago to transport lumber down to Anbo. It’s a tangible reminder of Yakushima’s past, a past where the island’s precious cedars were not always revered as they are today.

As we walked, I couldn’t help but think about David and Jasmine back home. I know David would have appreciated the engineering of the old railway, always fascinated by how things work. And Jasmine, with her passion for the environment, would have been awestruck by the sheer scale of the ancient forest. I made a mental note to bring them back here someday, to share this incredible experience with them.

We made a quick stop at The North Face. I had forgotten insect repellent, a rookie mistake considering Yakushima's lush environment. It was a good reminder that even seasoned travelers like myself can overlook the essentials. After stocking up, we continued on our journey, ready to face the forest head-on.

The real challenge began where the railway line ended and the Okabu Trail started. The path turned into a steep mountain trail, with a mix of dirt footpaths, boardwalks, and wooden steps. It was a climb that tested our stamina, but the reward was more than worth it. The air grew cooler, the sounds of civilization faded away, and we were enveloped by the primeval forest. The towering Yakusugi cedars, many over a thousand years old, created a cathedral of green, their gnarled branches reaching towards the sky.

The forest was a symphony of green, a testament to the enduring power of nature.

Along the way, we passed Wilson’s Stump, the hollowed-out remains of a giant cedar felled centuries ago. It’s named after the botanist Ernest Henry Wilson, who visited Yakushima in 1914. Stepping inside the stump was like entering another world. Looking up, we could see a heart-shaped opening in the wood, a poignant reminder of the tree’s lost life. It was a somber yet beautiful sight, a testament to the cycle of life and death in the forest.

Continuing our ascent, we reached Daio Sugi, the “Great King Cedar”. Until the discovery of Jōmon Sugi, it was believed to be the largest Yakusugi on the island. Standing at 24.7 meters tall with a trunk circumference of 11.1 meters, it’s an awe-inspiring sight. It’s estimated to be over 3,000 years old, a living monument to the passage of time.

Finally, after hours of hiking, we arrived at Jōmon Sugi. It stands on the north face of Mount Miyanoura, the highest peak on Yakushima, at an elevation of 1,300 meters. The Jōmon Sugi is estimated to be between 2,170 and 7,200 years old. Its height is 25.3 meters and its trunk circumference is 16.4 meters. The sheer size and age of this tree are staggering. It’s hard to fathom the millennia it has stood there, weathering storms and witnessing the changing world around it.

I remember reading a description of Jōmon Sugi by arborist Thomas Pakenham, who called it a grim titan of a tree, rising from the spongy ground more like rock than timber. It’s a fitting description. The tree exudes a sense of ancient power, its vast muscular arms extended above the tangle of young cedars and camphor trees.

Years ago, hikers could walk right up to Jōmon Sugi, but now, to protect the tree, visitors are restricted to an observation deck about 15 meters away. Even from a distance, the presence of this ancient giant is palpable. I stood there for a long time, simply absorbing the energy of the place, feeling a sense of peace and connection that I rarely experience in the modern world.

The hike back was just as challenging, but buoyed by the experience of seeing Jōmon Sugi, we pressed on. We stopped for lunch at At Pesca, a charming restaurant known for its delicious tempura meals. The vegetable tempura bowl was the perfect reward after a long day of hiking, and the cozy atmosphere and Hawaiian music added to the relaxed vibe.

For dinner, we decided to try SamPotei, a local spot known for its top-quality ingredients and jazzy vibes. I’m looking forward to trying their local craft beer and sampling some of their regional dishes. It’ll be a great way to unwind and reflect on the day’s adventures.

As I write this, my legs are aching, my feet are sore, but my heart is full. Today was a day of pilgrimage, a journey into the soul of Yakushima. The ancient cedars, the towering mountains, the pristine forests – they all spoke to me in whispers of time, reminding me of the enduring power of nature and the importance of preserving these precious places for future generations.

Tomorrow, we’re planning to explore Senpiro Falls and the Yakushima-todai Lighthouse. I’m excited to see more of this incredible island and to continue to immerse myself in its natural beauty. And who knows, maybe we’ll find another hidden gem along the way.

And as I drift off to sleep, I'm already anticipating tomorrow's adventure, a visit to Senpiro Falls and the Yakushima-todai Lighthouse. Each day here unveils a new facet of Yakushima's allure, and I'm eager to discover what tomorrow holds.