Family Adventure in the Cultural Heart of Kyoto

Finding Peace in Kyoto's Temples & Flavors

Today, on the twelfth day of our Kyoto family adventure, Eleanor, Kenji, and I sought to immerse ourselves in the tranquility of Kyoto's temples and the vibrant flavors of its local cuisine. It was a day of reflection, exploration, and, of course, delicious food. Join us as we explore the serene beauty of Nanzen-ji and Ginkaku-ji, and indulge in a culinary journey that spans from Indian spices to Spanish zest and refined Japanese cuisine.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at MUGHAL Indian Restaurant & Bar. It might seem strange to start a day in Kyoto with Indian food, but after several days of traditional Japanese cuisine, we were all craving something a little different. MUGHAL, tucked away near the Kamo River, proved to be a delightful surprise. The restaurant has been around since 1987, and you can tell they know what they're doing. The naan was particularly good, fluffy and piping hot. It reminded me of the curry houses back in Bristol, a comforting taste of home so far away.


Experience the vibrant flavors of India at Mughal Indian Restaurant & Bar in Kyoto – a haven for food lovers seeking authentic South Asian cuisine.

After breakfast, we made our way to Nanzen-ji Temple. This temple has a fascinating history, originally built in the late 13th century as Emperor Kameyama's retirement villa before being converted into a Zen temple in 1291. As we walked through the massive Sanmon entrance gate, I was immediately struck by the sheer scale of the structure. It was constructed in 1628 by the ruling Tokugawa clan to honor soldiers who died in the siege of Osaka Castle in 1615. Climbing up to the gate's balcony offered a panoramic view of the city, a humbling reminder of the passage of time and the weight of history.


Explore the tranquil beauty and rich history of Nanzen-ji Temple, a stunning Buddhist sanctuary nestled in the heart of Kyoto's natural landscape.

The central temple grounds are open to the public without charge, which allowed us to wander freely and soak in the atmosphere. The towering trees, the meticulously raked gravel gardens, and the gentle sound of water trickling through the landscape created an oasis of calm. We explored the various sub-temples, each with its own unique charm. Konchi-in Temple, founded in 1400 and relocated in the early 1600s, featured beautiful fusuma (sliding door) paintings, rock gardens, and a tea house. Tenjuan Temple, dedicated to the Zen master who served Emperor Kameyama, was equally enchanting, with its main hall, gate, and study dating back to the early 17th century.

One of the most striking features of Nanzen-ji is the aqueduct, constructed in 1890 to carry irrigation water from the Lake Biwa Canal. This unexpected European-style structure cutting through the temple grounds created a surreal juxtaposition of ancient and modern, East and West. It's a testament to Kyoto's ability to blend tradition with innovation.

In the quietude of a temple garden, one finds not an escape from life, but a return to it with clearer vision.

From Nanzen-ji, we strolled along the Philosopher's Path towards Ginkaku-ji, also known as the Silver Pavilion. This tranquil walk, following a canal lined with cherry trees, is said to be named after philosopher Nishida Kitaro, who used to meditate here. Though the cherry blossoms were mostly gone by now, the path still exuded a serene beauty, the gentle breeze rustling through the trees and the sunlight dappling the water.


Explore the serene beauty of Higashiyama Jisho-ji, a tranquil Buddhist temple in Kyoto, known for its stunning gardens and rich cultural heritage.

Ginkaku-ji, officially named Jisho-ji, was built by the 8th Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa in the Muromachi period. Yoshimasa intended to cover the pavilion in silver foil, emulating the Golden Pavilion (Kinkaku-ji) commissioned by his grandfather, but the silver was never applied. Despite its name, the Silver Pavilion exudes a wabi-sabi aesthetic of beauty in imperfection. The two-storied Kannon-den hall, the main temple structure, stands as a testament to Yoshimasa's vision, even without the silver.

The gardens at Ginkaku-ji are meticulously designed, featuring a unique sand garden known as the Sea of Silver Sand and a conical sand sculpture called the Moon-Viewing Platform. These elements are not merely decorative; they are intended to inspire contemplation and reflection. As I wandered through the gardens, I couldn't help but feel a sense of peace and tranquility wash over me. It's a feeling I often seek in my bonsai gardening back in Bristol, a connection to nature and a sense of calm amidst the chaos of daily life.

For lunch, we decided to try Antonio, a Spanish restaurant in Kyoto. After days of traditional Japanese meals, we were eager for a change of pace. This restaurant is run by a Spanish chef, which seemed promising. Eleanor was particularly excited, as she loves paella. The restaurant was cozy, and the aroma of Spanish spices filled the air. We ordered a seafood paella, and it was delicious. The flavors were authentic, and the portion was generous. Kenji enjoyed the patatas bravas, while Eleanor and I savored every bite of the paella. It was a delightful culinary detour that transported us to the sunny shores of Spain.


Discover authentic Spanish flavors at Antonio in Kyoto – where culinary artistry meets vibrant ambiance.

In the evening, we had a reservation at Kakyo, a Japanese restaurant known for its modern take on traditional cuisine. The chef, Tomohito Chujo, blends Japanese techniques with French influences, creating a unique and innovative dining experience. The restaurant itself is small and intimate, with a relaxed atmosphere.


Experience exquisite kaiseki cuisine at Kakyo, where tradition meets creativity in the heart of Kyoto's historic Higashiyama Ward.

We opted for the Omakase course, which allowed us to sample a variety of dishes, each carefully crafted and beautifully presented. The chef uses seasonal ingredients to create dishes that are both visually stunning and incredibly flavorful. From the delicate sashimi to the perfectly grilled fish, each course was a work of art. The pairing of sake and wine was also exceptional, enhancing the flavors of the food and adding to the overall experience. It was, without a doubt, one of the most memorable meals we've had in Kyoto.

After dinner, Eleanor and I decided to sneak away for a quick drink at Bar Fishbowl. I had read about this place and was intrigued by its unique atmosphere. As the name suggests, the bar features a large fishbowl aquarium, creating a surreal and captivating ambiance. The bar offers a wide selection of Japanese whiskeys and craft beers, as well as creative cocktails. We enjoyed a couple of drinks while watching the fish swim lazily in the tank, a perfect end to a day filled with temples, gardens, and culinary delights.


Discover Kyoto's nightlife at Bar Fishbowl, a cocktail haven with stunning views and expertly crafted drinks in the heart of the city.

Reflecting on the day, I realized how much Kyoto has to offer. From the serene beauty of its temples to the vibrant flavors of its cuisine, this city is a feast for the senses. As we prepare for tomorrow's adventures, which include a visit to the Kyoto Railway Museum and Kyoto Tower, I feel grateful for the opportunity to share these experiences with my family.

Tomorrow, we are planning to visit the Kyoto Railway Museum and Kyoto Tower. Kenji is particularly excited about the Railway Museum, and I am looking forward to seeing the city from the top of Kyoto Tower. Before that, we'll have breakfast at Hyoto Shijo Karasuma, lunch at Tategami, and dinner at Gion Mikaku. We might also stop by Kyoto LOFT for some shopping. It promises to be another exciting day in Kyoto.

As I write this, Eleanor is reading a book, and Kenji is already asleep, dreaming of trains and temples. I feel a sense of contentment, knowing that we are creating memories that will last a lifetime. This family adventure in Kyoto is turning out to be everything I had hoped for and more. I am glad that I decided to share my experiences here, and I hope that my stories inspire others to explore the beauty and wonder of this incredible city.