Romantic Italian Escape: Discovering Lucca's Charm

Echoes of Ancient Lucca

Today was all about immersing ourselves in the heart of Lucca, tracing its history through its most iconic landmarks. It’s incredible how much a city can reveal when you simply wander with open eyes and a curious spirit. Maximilian and I set out early, eager to experience the stories etched into the stones of this beautiful Italian gem.

Our day began with a delightful breakfast at Caffè dell'Ussero dal 1775. Though technically in Pisa, the reputation of this historic spot precedes it, and we decided to make the short trip for a taste of tradition. Founded in 1775, it's one of Italy's oldest literary cafes, a place where intellectuals and patriots once gathered. Sipping my cappuccino, I imagined the lively discussions that once filled the air, the echoes of history resonating with each sip. The pastries were divine, and Maximilian, ever the history enthusiast, was captivated by the cafe's rich past. It was the perfect start to a day dedicated to exploring Lucca's cultural treasures.

The past is never dead. It's not even past.

Back in Lucca, our first stop was Piazza San Michele. This square has been the heart of Lucca for nearly 2,000 years, evolving from an ancient Roman forum into a vibrant hub of city life. As I stood in the square, I could almost hear the echoes of triumphant processions and public speeches that once filled this space. The square is also known as Piazza delle Catene because of marble columns linked by heavy chains. The buildings surrounding the piazza, many dating back over 800 years, added to the sense of stepping back in time. I made sure to take a picture of the Palazzo Pretorio with its clock. Maximilian, with his keen eye for detail, pointed out the statue of Francesco Burlamacchi, a 16th-century politician, reminding me of the city's complex history.


Discover the enchanting Piazza San Michele in Lucca, Italy, where stunning architecture, local culture, and delicious cuisine come together in a vibrant atmosphere.

Dominating the piazza is the magnificent Chiesa di San Michele in Foro. Built on the site of the ancient Roman forum, this church is a testament to Lucca's enduring spirit. The church dates back to 795 AD. Pope Alexander II ordered the rebuilding of the church in 1070. The facade, with its intricate sculptures and inlays, is a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture. As we approached, I was struck by the sheer detail of the facade. The columns are all different. Legend says that as long as St. Michael stays on top of the church, Lucca is safe. The wings of the angel statue on top of the facade are flexible to survive the wind. The statue of Archangel Michael slaying a dragon at the top is breathtaking, and I couldn't help but search for the legendary emerald embedded in the statue, said to gleam on the sunniest days. Inside, the church is serene and awe-inspiring. The nave, supported by monolithic columns, leads to a semicircular apse. We admired the Madonna with Child terracotta by Luca della Robbia and the panel with Four Saints by Filippino Lippi. Maximilian was particularly interested in the bell tower, which was shortened in the 14th century by the Doge of Pisa, a testament to the rivalries of the time. The church has a body of a pilgrim saint, San Divino Armeno, preserved under the high altar.


Explore the historical and architectural beauty of Chiesa di San Michele in Foro, a must-see church in the heart of Lucca, Italy.

Leaving the grandeur of Piazza San Michele, we strolled towards Fontana della Pupporona. This charming fountain, also known as Piazza San Salvatore, is a delightful oasis. Designed by Lorenzo Nottolini and sculpted by Luigi Camolli in the 19th century, the fountain features a statue of a Naiad, a water nymph, that has become a beloved symbol of Lucca. The locals call the statue pupporona because of her exposed breast. The fountain is surrounded by a protective fence of marble columns and iron railings. The sound of the gently flowing water created a serene ambiance, and we took a moment to relax and soak in the atmosphere. The piazza is surrounded by cafes and shops, making it a perfect spot to pause and people-watch. I captured a few photos, trying to capture the interplay of light and water that makes this fountain so enchanting.


Explore the historical beauty of Fontana della Pupporona, a captivating fountain in Lucca that combines art, culture, and relaxation in one unforgettable spot.

For lunch, we ventured to Gigi Trattoria, a family-run restaurant known for its traditional Tuscan cuisine. The cozy, wood-paneled space offered a relaxed atmosphere, and we were lucky enough to snag a table on the terrace. We started with the antipasto Toscano, a delicious selection of local cheeses and cured meats. For our main courses, Maximilian chose the roast meats, while I opted for the homemade pasta, specifically the gnocchi with burrata cheese, basil, and tomatoes. The pasta was cooked to perfection, and the sauce was bursting with fresh flavors. We finished with a classic tiramisu, which was light, well-portioned, and a satisfying end to the meal. The service was friendly and efficient, and the whole experience had a relaxed, authentic feel.


Experience authentic Italian dining at Gigi Trattoria in Lucca – where every dish tells a story.

After lunch, we decided to indulge in a little retail therapy. We wandered through the streets, popping into various shops. Di Lucca Tipico caught my eye, and we stepped inside to explore its selection of local products. The shop was filled with Tuscan delicacies, from olive oils and wines to biscotti and cheeses. It was a perfect place to find souvenirs and gifts for our family back in Germany. I picked up a bottle of local olive oil and some traditional Luccan biscotti. Maximilian, always on the lookout for unique finds, discovered a selection of local wines. The owner was incredibly knowledgeable and offered us a tasting, sharing stories about the region's winemaking traditions.


Explore Di Lucca Tipico for authentic Tuscan souvenirs and unique gifts that capture the spirit of Lucca.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to L'imbuto for dinner, eager to experience its innovative cuisine. Located in the Palazzo Pfanner, the restaurant offered a beautiful setting for a memorable meal. The restaurant has a Michelin star. We chose the tasting menu, which featured a series of small, exquisitely prepared dishes that showcased the chef's creativity and skill. Each course was a work of art, both visually stunning and incredibly flavorful. The service was impeccable, and the sommelier paired each dish with a complementary wine. It was an unforgettable culinary experience, a perfect ending to a day of exploration and discovery.


Experience culinary excellence at L'imbuto - where traditional Italian flavors meet modern gastronomy in the heart of Lucca.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Orto Botanico Comunale di Lucca and the Palazzo Pfanner. I am particularly excited about visiting the Orto Botanico, as I have always been fascinated by plants and gardens. I am also looking forward to seeing the Palazzo Pfanner, as I have heard that it is a beautiful example of Baroque architecture. Perhaps we'll find a cozy spot at Vinarkia Della Pavona for an evening drink, reflecting on the day's adventures. I'm also hoping to find an umbrella, as I realized I forgot to pack one, and the weather forecast is predicting rain.

Lucca continues to surprise and enchant me. Each day reveals new layers of history, culture, and beauty, making this Italian escape truly unforgettable. It's a place where the past and present intertwine, creating a unique and captivating experience. I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings!