Sofia's Solo Escape to the Serene Con Dao Islands

Day 11: Reflecting on Con Dao: A Journey Through History and Flavors

Explore Con Dao's poignant history at Phu Tuong Prison, savor local cuisine, and find unique souvenirs on my final day.

Post Image

Farewell, Con Dao!


As my solo journey through the Con Dao Islands nears its end, I find myself filled with a mix of emotions. This trip has been a profound experience, blending moments of serene beauty with stark reminders of the islands' tumultuous past. Today, I set out to explore more of Con Dao's history, indulge in its local flavors, and find a few mementos to take back home.

My day began with a delightful breakfast at The Secret Restaurant. It's a very tasteful, classy and unique place to dine. Housed in a renovated French colonial-era villa on the seafront road beneath old tropical trees, the outside seating is scenic and breezy, while inside it's a stylish mix of contemporary-meets-Indochine. Sipping my coffee while overlooking the tranquil bay, I felt grateful for the chance to experience such a blend of luxury and history. The Secret Con Dao is a fairly functional structure with pitched roofs and four floors of guest rooms with large windows and balconies. The general aesthetic is clean, minimal, sleek, modern. It's not particularly architecturally interesting, but neither is it overbearing and obnoxious. Scattered around the garden are some old, French colonial-era walls and architectural fragments entangled in webs of roots and branches. The Secret Restaurant is housed in a handsomely restored colonial-era villa, which is lovely, but does rather clash with the contemporary character of the rest of the resort: they feel totally disconnected.

Experience authentic Vietnamese cuisine at The Secret Restaurant in Côn Đảo - where every meal is a delightful journey into local flavors.
Experience authentic Vietnamese cuisine at The Secret Restaurant in Côn Đảo - where every meal is a delightful journey into local flavors.

With a full stomach and a reflective heart, I headed to Trại Phú Tường, also known as the French Tiger Cages. This former prison is a chilling reminder of the island's dark past, a place where political prisoners were once held in inhumane conditions. The prison was built in 1940, originally named Bange 3. Under the old Saigon government, its name changed to Bac Ai Prison, Prison 3, and finally Phu Tuong Prison, part of the Phu Hai reeducation center.

Discover the historical charm of Trại Phú Tường, a captivating landmark in Ba Ria - Vung Tau, Vietnam, blending rich history with breathtaking landscapes.
Discover the historical charm of Trại Phú Tường, a captivating landmark in Ba Ria - Vung Tau, Vietnam, blending rich history with breathtaking landscapes.

Walking through the narrow corridors and tiny cells, I couldn't help but feel a deep sense of sorrow and respect for those who suffered here. The isolation and brutality they endured are unimaginable, and the experience left me with a heavy heart. Trại Phú Tường was a very special prison, like a screen to hide the Tiger Cages inside. Although it was built very early to torture and use brutal punishments on communist prisoners, the Tiger Cage area was not discovered because the prisoners were blindfolded before being moved to the cells to ensure they could not determine the direction. The most dangerous thing was that prisoners could be executed at any time.
Visiting the essential and heartbreaking relics of the past mindfully; it will only make you appreciate what exists there today that much more.

Afterward, I needed a change of pace, so I decided to immerse myself in the local culture with Con Dao Experience. This tour offered a more personal glimpse into the lives of the islanders, their traditions, and their resilience. It was heartening to see how the community has transformed this island of pain into a place of peace and beauty.

Explore Con Dao's pristine beauty and rich history with Con Dao Experience—your ultimate travel partner in Vietnam's stunning archipelago.
Explore Con Dao's pristine beauty and rich history with Con Dao Experience—your ultimate travel partner in Vietnam's stunning archipelago.

For lunch, I ventured to Nhà hàng Thu Ba, a local favorite known for its fresh seafood. This restaurant offers a clean and cheerful atmosphere with fresh and generously portioned dishes perfect for sharing. The menu features a variety of seafood options such as squid, prawns, fish, lobster, and crab prepared by Chef Thu Ba. Additionally, the restaurant provides both Western and Vietnamese breakfast options and can prepare picnics for outdoor activities. I indulged in a delicious seafood platter, savoring the flavors of the ocean and the spices of Vietnam. The restaurant was bustling with locals and tourists alike, all enjoying the simple pleasure of good food and good company. It was the perfect way to lift my spirits after the morning's somber visit to the prison. The seafood was incredibly fresh, and the staff were warm and welcoming.

Experience authentic Vietnamese seafood delicacies at Nhà Hàng Thu Ba in Côn Đảo's stunning surroundings.
Experience authentic Vietnamese seafood delicacies at Nhà Hàng Thu Ba in Côn Đảo's stunning surroundings.

In the afternoon, I dedicated some time to souvenir shopping. I wanted to find something unique to remember my trip by, something that captured the essence of Con Dao. I stopped by Siêu thị đặc sản, quà lưu niệm côn đảo Hương Biển, a local specialty supermarket. Siêu thị Hương Biển is located at the intersection of the road to Hang Duong Cemetery, a road that no tourist can miss. It is a concentration of hotels, eateries and the only road leading down to Hang Duong Cemetery to visit the heroic martyrs who fell here. Siêu thị Hương Biển almost sells all kinds of items from specialties to souvenirs, including one of the shop's unique items, the Pulo Bear keychain - a symbol of the Con Dao map and a souvenir product of Mieu Ba Phi Yen associated with the legend of Hac Ho and Vuon Bach. The legend of Ba Phi Yen is associated with Vuon Bach and Hac Ho - 02 animals that supported her during her imprisonment on Hon Ba. The shop's strength lies in the scientific, neat and eye-catching arrangement of items. Customers can easily access products conveniently and always receive thoughtful and enthusiastic advice from staff here. After browsing through the various shops, I finally settled on a few small items: some local spices to remind me of the delicious Vietnamese cuisine I had enjoyed, and a handcrafted piece of jewelry featuring a Con Dao pearl.

Explore Hương Biển Specialty Supermarket in Côn Đảo for a unique shopping experience with local delicacies and memorable souvenirs.
Explore Hương Biển Specialty Supermarket in Côn Đảo for a unique shopping experience with local delicacies and memorable souvenirs.

As the sun began to set, I made my way to Beach House Restaurant & Cocktails Côn Đảo for my final dinner on the islands. This restaurant and cafe is so amazing. And Lyly and Lao were the sweetest and most helpful people. They only had so good food here and the best coffee on the island. This place is special. The ingredients are fresh and balanced perfectly. The homemade pasta is some of the best I have ever had. The people are welcoming and friendly. The restaurant is hidden in a backyard, but has a really nice vibe. The staff is super friendly and have the same owners as An Oi. The menu features a variety of international dishes. With its cozy atmosphere and delicious food, it was the perfect place to reflect on my journey. I savored every bite of my meal, knowing that it would be one of the last tastes of Vietnam I would have for a while.

Experience culinary excellence at Beach House Restaurant & Cocktails in Côn Đảo – where fusion flavors meet stunning ocean views.
Experience culinary excellence at Beach House Restaurant & Cocktails in Côn Đảo – where fusion flavors meet stunning ocean views.

Tomorrow, I will be heading back to Bielefeld, filled with memories and experiences that will stay with me for a lifetime. Con Dao has touched my heart in ways I never expected, and I am grateful for the opportunity to have explored its beauty and its history. It's a place that will stay with me always, a reminder of resilience, remembrance, and the enduring power of the human spirit.

Before I completely sign off, I wanted to share a quick tip for those of you planning a trip to Con Dao. The weather can be unpredictable, so be sure to pack both light clothing and a raincoat. And don't forget your sunscreen! The sun here is strong, even on cloudy days. Also, it is important to note the (dark) history of the island, which can be seen and felt. Visit the essential and heartbreaking relics of the past mindfully; it will only make you appreciate what exists there today that much more. Finally, be respectful of the local culture and traditions. Con Dao is a special place, and it's important to treat it with the care and respect it deserves.

Until next time, happy travels!
Go to day 10 Island Bliss Found: Exploring Con Son's Charms
trip photo
Sofia's Solo Escape to the Serene Con Dao Islands

Discover the tranquil beauty and rich history of the Con Dao Islands on a solo adventure, exploring hidden beaches and cultural treasures.

View full trip

Meet this Featured Explorer

Sofia Hernandez
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Marketing Consultant
  • Country icon Country: Germany
  • Age icon Age: 34

Hola a todos! I'm Sofia Hernandez, a Mexican-born marketing consultant living in Germany with my wonderful husband, Maximilian, and our daughter, Elena. While my professional life keeps me busy, my true passion lies in exploring the world and sharing my experiences with you. Through my blog, I aim to inspire you to embrace authentic travel, immerse yourselves in different cultures, and create unforgettable memories. Whether you're a seasoned traveler or planning your first adventure, I hope my stories and insights will help you discover the beauty and wonder our world has to offer. Join me as I navigate the globe, one adventure at a time!

Interests:
  • Cultural Anthropology
  • Sustainable Tourism
  • Gastronomy
  • Photography
  • History
More about Sofia Hernandez

Find Similar Travel Diaries

Explore locations from this diary

Our editors` picks of the latest and greatest in travel - delivered to your inbox weekly
Share:

Select Currency