Family Adventure to Naoshima's Art Island

Art, Houses, and Honmura's Soul

Today was all about diving deep into the heart of Naoshima's artistic spirit, exploring the Honmura district and its captivating Art House Project. It’s incredible how art can breathe new life into abandoned spaces, turning them into something truly special. The blend of traditional Japanese architecture with contemporary art installations creates an atmosphere that's both serene and stimulating.

Our day began, as always, with a hearty breakfast. We headed to Café Ippo, a charming spot near Minamidera, recommended for its vegan fare and cozy atmosphere. While Sri and Bagus enjoyed their coffee, I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set. The friendly couple who run the café made us feel right at home, sharing stories about the island and its art scene. It felt like a perfect way to start our day, soaking in the local vibe and fueling up for our Honmura adventure.


Discover Café Ippo in Naoshima: A delightful fusion of authentic Japanese cuisine and warm hospitality awaits you in this charming café.

With our stomachs full and spirits high, we made our way to the Honmura district. The Art House Project was our main focus, and I was eager to see how artists had transformed these empty houses into works of art. The first stop was the Honmura Lounge & Archive, which used to be an agricultural cooperative supermarket. This place serves as the information center for the Art House Project. Here, we purchased our multi-site tickets and gathered information about the various art houses. The staff was incredibly helpful, providing maps and suggesting the best route to take. Bagus was particularly interested in the architecture of the lounge itself, designed by Ryue Nishizawa. He spent a good amount of time admiring the way the space had been preserved and redesigned.


Explore Naoshima's artistic essence at Honmura Lounge & Archive, where culture meets relaxation amidst stunning landscapes.

Art doesn't transform. It just plain forms things!

Our first art house was Haisha, the former home and office of a local dentist. Shinro Ohtake transformed this space into a striking sculptural work of art. The integration of the old dental equipment with modern art pieces was both intriguing and slightly unsettling. Bagus found the replica of the Statue of Liberty particularly fascinating, commenting on its unexpected presence in a traditional Japanese house. Sri appreciated the way the artist had used different floors of the house to showcase various sculptures, creating a multi-dimensional experience.


Experience the captivating blend of traditional Japanese architecture and contemporary art at Art House Project: Haisha on Naoshima Island.

Next on our list was Walking Ark. It was certainly a unique experience. The structure itself was interesting, and the way it blended with the surrounding landscape was quite impressive. We spent some time simply taking in the views and appreciating the tranquility of the area.


Experience the harmony of art and nature at the Walking Ark, an open-air museum in Ogicho, Takamatsu, where creativity thrives.

After immersing ourselves in the Art House Project, we were ready for lunch. We chose Issen, a restaurant located on the ground floor of the Benesse House Museum. While it was a bit of a walk from Honmura, the promise of fresh Setouchi seafood was too tempting to resist. The large windows offered stunning views of the Inland Sea, making our dining experience even more enjoyable. I opted for the seafood set, while Sri chose a vegetarian option. Bagus, ever the adventurous eater, tried the local specialty, sea urchin rice. We all agreed that the food was delicious and the ambiance was perfect.


Discover exquisite Japanese cuisine at Issen on Naoshima Island—where art meets culinary excellence in every bite.

In the late afternoon, as the sun began to dip towards the horizon, we decided to explore some of Honmura's other attractions. We strolled through the town's narrow lanes, admiring the traditional wooden houses and small shrines. It was a peaceful and calming experience, a welcome contrast to the bustling art scene. I enjoyed observing the locals going about their daily lives, feeling a sense of connection to this unique island community. Sri was particularly drawn to the small gardens that adorned many of the houses, noting the care and attention that the residents put into their upkeep.

For dinner, we decided to try EAT LOCAL 直島食堂, located near Tsutsuji-so. This restaurant is known for its commitment to using local ingredients and serving traditional Japanese dishes. We enjoyed a variety of dishes, including fresh sashimi, grilled fish, and local vegetables. The food was simple but delicious, showcasing the natural flavors of the region. The atmosphere was relaxed and welcoming, making it a perfect way to end our day.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at EAT LOCAL 直島食堂 on Naoshima Island, where fresh seafood meets local flavors in a cozy atmosphere.

As the evening drew to a close, we decided to check out Naoshima Yokocho, a local izakaya recommended for its casual Japanese dinners and bar. It’s a great spot to unwind and enjoy some local sake. We sampled a few local brews and chatted with some of the locals, learning more about the island's history and culture. It was a fun and lively atmosphere, a perfect way to cap off our day of art and exploration.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Naoshima Yokocho, an izakaya that captures the essence of Naoshima's culinary culture amidst stunning art and nature.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore Miyanoura Gallery 6, Les Archives du Cœur, and Chinu - the Black Sea Bream of Uno. We'll also be visiting Mikazukishoten for some shopping. I’m looking forward to seeing what new artistic discoveries await us.

Looking back on today, I’m struck by how art can transform not only spaces but also communities. The Art House Project is a testament to the power of creativity and the importance of preserving cultural heritage. It’s been an inspiring day, and I’m grateful for the opportunity to experience this unique blend of art and island life with my family.

As I reflect on our experiences today, I'm reminded of a quote by the famous architect Tadao Ando:

The role of architecture today is to create places for people to gather and to give them a sense of identity, a sense of belonging.

Ando's words resonate deeply with the spirit of Naoshima, where art and architecture come together to create a sense of community and belonging. This island is more than just a destination; it's a place where art, nature, and people intertwine to create a truly unique and unforgettable experience.

The day was a reminder that travel is not just about seeing new places, but also about connecting with the local culture and community. Naoshima has a way of making you feel like you're part of something special, a place where art and life are inextricably linked. And as we prepare for our final day on the island, I'm filled with a sense of anticipation for what new discoveries await us.

Naoshima has been incredible, and I'm already looking forward to sharing more of our adventures with you all. Until tomorrow, selamat tinggal!

I'm also reminded that while I did pack most of the essentials, I really could have used that portable charger today, especially with all the photos I took. I'll make sure to keep that in mind for future trips!

The best part of today was definitely the Art House Project. It was fascinating to see how artists transformed these old houses into something new and exciting. Each house had its own unique character and story to tell, and it was a truly immersive experience. I also enjoyed our dinner at EAT LOCAL 直島食堂. The food was delicious and the atmosphere was very relaxed and welcoming. It was a great way to end the day.

The Art House Project is an ongoing initiative that began in 1998. Artists transform empty houses scattered throughout the Honmura district into art installations, weaving in the history and memories of the buildings. It includes seven locations: Kadoya, Minamidera, Kinza, Go'o Shrine, Ishibashi, Gokaisho, and Haisha. Tickets can be purchased at the Honmura Lounge & Archive.

Honmura Lounge & Archive was once used as an agricultural cooperative supermarket. It was designed by the architect Ryue Nishizawa. It sells tickets for the Art House Project and related books and goods, and also serves as an information center.

Haisha is the former home and office of a local dentist that has been converted into a gallery for large sculptures, some of which can be viewed from different floors of the two storied house. The artworks include a replica of the Statue of Liberty. Otake also designed the I Love Yu bath house.

Café Ippo is located near Minamidera and is also a guest house as well as a cafe. They offer delicious coffee, and it's also a great place to have breakfast or lunch.

Issen is located on the ground floor of the Benesse House Museum. The large windows allow you to appreciate the view of the Inland Sea and modern art from any seat while you enjoy a meal in this extraordinary space. In addition to a dinner menu focusing on kaiseki cuisine made with fresh Setouchi seafood, breakfast and lunch featuring a wide variety of seasonal ingredients are also available.

Naoshima Yokocho is an izakaya located in Naoshima-cho, Kagawa. During the day, they serve Sanuki udon noodles made with dried sardine broth, as well as set meals and sashimi made with fresh seafood. In the evening, they serve casual Japanese dinners that go well with alcohol, and also have a bar that serves hard liquor such as whiskey. They are open until 9pm. The restaurant is spacious, so they can accommodate large groups.

EAT LOCAL 直島食堂 is located near Tsutsuji-so. They offer a menu that is focused on using local ingredients from the Seto Inland Sea. They offer a variety of dishes, including fresh seafood, grilled fish, and local vegetables.

The Setouchi Triennale is an art festival that is held every three years. It transforms the Seto Inland Sea into a vast stage for contemporary art. In 2025, numerous islands will host unique art projects, blending natural beauty with artistic expression. Naoshima is one of the main venues for the festival. Benesse House Museum and Chichu Art Museum are must-sees, and a new museum is scheduled to open in spring 2025, introducing fresh perspectives to Naoshima's art scene.

The Setouchi Triennale 2025 is scheduled to take place from April to November 2025. It will be held in three periods: Spring (April 18th to May 25th), Summer (August 1st to August 31st), and Autumn (October 3rd to November 9th).