Solo Retreat to Yakushima: A Journey into Japan's Natural Wonder

A Day of Serene Discoveries

Today was a day of embracing Yakushima's unique blend of natural beauty and local culture. It was a slower-paced day, a gentle transition as my solo retreat nears its end. I found myself reflecting on the journey so far, cherishing the moments of solitude and the unexpected encounters that have enriched my experience. It's funny how a place can feel both familiar and new each day, revealing different facets of its character with every sunrise.

My morning started with a hearty breakfast at Smiley. The cafe was a cozy spot, filled with the aroma of freshly brewed coffee and the murmur of locals and fellow travelers. I opted for a simple muffin and a cup of chai, which gave me the energy I needed for the day ahead. It was a perfect way to start the day. The cafe was near Anbo Port, so I could feel the sea breeze as I was eating.


Discover the cozy Smiley Café in Yakushima – where exceptional coffee meets delicious cakes and sandwiches in a warm atmosphere.

After breakfast, I made my way to the East China Sea Observatory. The drive itself was lovely, winding through lush greenery and offering glimpses of the coastline. When I arrived, the view was simply breathtaking. The East China Sea stretched out before me, an endless expanse of blue meeting the horizon. On a clear day, they say you can see the volcanic islands of Kuchinoerabujima, Kuroshima, Iwojima and Takeshima. Today, the visibility was good, and I could make out the faint silhouettes of a few islands in the distance. I spent a good hour there, just soaking it all in and capturing photos. It's moments like these that remind me why I love to travel – the feeling of being utterly present, surrounded by the grandeur of nature.


Breathtaking views of the East China Sea and distant volcanic islands await at this scenic Yakushima viewpoint.

From the observatory, I headed towards Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen, a unique seaside hot spring that can only be accessed during low tide. I made sure to check the tide times in advance, as I didn't want to miss my chance to experience this special spot. The onsen is located right on the coast, with natural rock pools filled with warm, mineral-rich water. As I approached, I could hear the sound of the waves crashing nearby and feel the refreshing sea breeze on my skin. The onsen itself was a communal, mixed-gender bath, which added to the sense of shared experience. I made my donation and stepped into the warm water, feeling the tension melt away from my muscles.


Experience the breathtaking beauty of Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen, a unique outdoor hot spring retreat on Yakushima Island, surrounded by nature's splendor.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found in the simplest of moments, like soaking in a natural hot spring by the sea.

The experience was incredibly soothing, and the view of the ocean was simply mesmerizing. It was a bit strange to be naked with other people, but I quickly got over it. The water temperature was perfect, and I could feel the minerals working their magic on my skin. I stayed there for a while, chatting with some of the locals and other travelers, sharing stories and laughter. It felt like a truly authentic experience, a glimpse into the heart of Yakushima's culture and traditions.

After my relaxing soak, it was time for lunch. I decided to try Kamogawa Restaurant, known for its local dishes and friendly atmosphere. The restaurant was easy to find, located on the main road in Anbo. As soon as I stepped inside, I was greeted with a warm welcome by the staff. The place was bustling with activity, filled with locals enjoying their midday meals. I decided to try their flying fish set meal, a Yakushima specialty. The fish was fresh and flavorful, prepared with a delicate touch that highlighted its natural taste. The set also included a variety of side dishes, each one carefully crafted and bursting with flavor. I really enjoyed the meal and the cozy atmosphere. It was a great way to experience the local cuisine and connect with the community.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Kamogawa Restaurant in picturesque Yakushima - where tradition meets culinary excellence.

With my belly full and my spirits high, I decided to spend the afternoon exploring the Yakushima Market. I was hoping to find some unique souvenirs to take back home to Hans and Olena. The market was a vibrant hub of activity, filled with stalls selling everything from local crafts to fresh produce. I wandered through the aisles, admiring the intricate woodwork, colorful textiles, and aromatic spices. I ended up buying a few small items: a set of handmade chopsticks for Hans, a delicate embroidered wall hanging for Olena, and some Tankan citrus candies for myself. I also picked up a small piece of Yakusugi wood, a fragrant reminder of the ancient forests I had explored. The market was a treasure trove of local goods, and I was happy to support the artisans and farmers who call Yakushima home.


Discover the vibrant Yakushima Market, where local crafts and fresh produce come together for an authentic shopping experience.

For dinner, I chose Matsutake, a noodle restaurant in the southwest of Yakushima. It’s known for its soba and udon noodles. It was a bit of a drive to get there, but the scenery along the way was stunning, with glimpses of the coastline and the forest. When I arrived, the restaurant was tucked away behind another house, giving it a secluded and peaceful atmosphere. I ordered their signature soba noodles with tempura. The noodles were perfectly cooked, and the tempura was light and crispy. The flavors were delicate and refined, a testament to the chef's skill and attention to detail. The restaurant itself had a traditional Japanese charm, with tatami floor seating and a serene ambiance. It was a wonderful way to end the day, savoring a delicious meal in a tranquil setting.


Discover authentic soba noodles at Matsutake in Yakushima – where tradition meets flavor amidst stunning natural beauty.

As I sit here in my guesthouse, reflecting on the day, I feel a sense of contentment and gratitude. Yakushima has a way of slowing down time, of inviting you to appreciate the simple things in life. Tomorrow is my last day on the island, and I plan to make the most of it. I'm looking forward to visiting Yokogawa Valley and the Yakushima Fruit Garden - “Papaya no Sato” [see tomorrow's itinerary]. I also plan to have lunch at Yakushima Furusato Market Island Megumi Kan and dinner at Shiosai [see tomorrow's itinerary]. Before heading to the airport, I will visit Fisherman's Bar NINA for a drink [see tomorrow's itinerary].

I will miss this enchanting island, but I know that the memories and experiences I've gained here will stay with me long after I've left. Yakushima has touched my soul in a way that few places have, and I'm grateful for the opportunity to have explored its hidden gems and embraced its natural beauty.