Art and Nature: A Solo Journey to Naoshima Island

Art Beyond the Museum Walls: Discovering Honmura's Soul

Today was a day of wandering through the heart of Naoshima, a journey that took me far beyond the pristine walls of its famous museums. It was about discovering art interwoven with the everyday, breathing life back into forgotten corners. I found myself not just observing art, but experiencing it in the most intimate and unexpected ways. It was a day of transformation, both for the spaces I explored and, I suspect, for me as well.

My exploration began, as many do, with a hearty breakfast at Café Ippo. Tucked away near Minamidera, this unassuming café felt like stepping into someone's home. The vegan fare was simple but satisfying, the perfect fuel for a day of artistic exploration. It was a quiet start, a moment to gather my thoughts before diving into the heart of the Art House Project. I was hoping to grab a cake with my coffee, but I arrived too late and they were already out of it, which was a shame. But the sliced apple the staff gave me made up for it!


Discover Café Ippo in Naoshima: A delightful fusion of authentic Japanese cuisine and warm hospitality awaits you in this charming café.

The Art House Project is the soul of Honmura, a collection of abandoned houses, a temple, and even a former dentist's office, each transformed into unique art installations. This project, which started in 1998, is a collaboration between artists and architects under the guidance of Benesse Art Site Naoshima, revitalizing the Honmura district. What makes it so special is how seamlessly the art blends with the everyday life of the village. You're not just visiting a gallery; you're walking through a neighborhood where art has taken root, breathing new life into forgotten spaces.

First on my list was Minamidera, a structure designed by the renowned architect Tadao Ando to house a work by James Turrell. The building stands where a temple used to be, and the name Minamidera (literally southern temple) seeks to preserve the idea that the temples which once stood here were emotional support for the people. Knowing that the Setouchi Triennale will be held from April to November, I was excited to see this installation.


Discover the Art House Project: Minamidera in Naoshima, where modern art meets traditional Japanese architecture in a serene setting.

Art doesn't just live in galleries; it breathes life into forgotten spaces, transforming our perception of the everyday.

I had booked my visit in advance, a necessary step given the limited capacity. Entering Minamidera is an exercise in trust. You're led into a pitch-black room, so dark that you can't see your hand in front of your face. Slowly, as your eyes adjust, a rectangle of light begins to emerge, playing tricks on your perception. It's an experience that challenges your senses and makes you question what you think you see. It felt like stepping into another world, a testament to Turrell's mastery of light and space. It’s impossible to describe the feeling of disorientation and eventual clarity, but it’s something I won’t soon forget.

Next, I wandered over to Kadoya, the first house transformed as part of the Art House Project. This 200-year-old building houses works by Tatsuo Miyajima, including the mesmerizing Sea of Time '98. Here, the townspeople of Naoshima participated in the creation of the work, making it an opportunity to interject modern art into the lives of the islanders and the local area. The work features a pool of water filled with LED counters, each blinking at a different pace, representing the individual lives and memories of the island's inhabitants. It's a beautiful representation of time, memory, and the interconnectedness of a community.


Explore the harmonious blend of traditional Japanese architecture and contemporary art at Naoshima's Art House Project: Kadoya.

My final stop for the day was Haisha, meaning dentist, once the home and office of a local dentist, now transformed by artist Shinro Ohtake into a chaotic and captivating collage. The house incorporates an eclectic array of stylistic elements, appearing in some places like a sculpture, in others like a painting, and in still others like a collage or scrapbook. The title of the work, Dreaming Tongue, represents the process of holding something in one's mouth and recalling a dream by retracing the taste and scent. The exterior is a riot of textures and colors, a stark contrast to the traditional Japanese architecture surrounding it. Inside, the space is filled with found objects, sculptures, and paintings, creating a sense of organized chaos. It's like stepping into the artist's mind, a whirlwind of creativity and imagination.


Experience the captivating blend of traditional Japanese architecture and contemporary art at Art House Project: Haisha on Naoshima Island.

The Art House Project isn't just about the individual installations; it's about the journey between them. Walking through Honmura, you're immersed in the daily life of the village. You pass by traditional houses, gardens overflowing with flowers, and locals going about their day. It's a reminder that art isn't separate from life; it's an integral part of it.

After a full day of art exploration, I found myself craving something savory for dinner. Kinosaki Udon Naoshima, a short walk from Miyanoura Port, was the perfect choice. This self-service udon restaurant is known for its authentic Japanese cuisine, particularly the udon noodles. I opted for the Niku Udon, udon topped with sticky grated yam, a shredded laver sheet (nori), shredded spring onions, deep-fried tempura batter and optional grated ginger. The firm, chewy noodles were perfectly complemented by the rich broth, infused with the savory flavor of sweet and salty simmered beef. It was a comforting and satisfying end to a day of artistic discovery.


Experience authentic Japanese udon noodles at Kinosaki Udon Naoshima - where tradition meets flavor in a cozy setting.

With the evening still young, I decided to check out Bar SARU, known as the only bar on Naoshima that stays open late. I grabbed a Naoshima beer and chatted with some of the locals. The bar was moved to Miyanoura from its former location in the Honmura area. It was a cozy and welcoming spot, the perfect place to unwind and reflect on the day's experiences.


Discover the vibrant nightlife of Naoshima at Bar SARU, where local beers and a cozy atmosphere await every traveler.

As I walked back to My Lodge Naoshima, the island was quiet, the stars shining brightly overhead. I couldn't help but feel grateful for the experiences of the day. Naoshima isn't just an island of art; it's an island of transformation, a place where forgotten spaces are given new life and where art becomes an integral part of the community. It's a place that challenges your perceptions and inspires you to see the world in a new way.


Discover affordable comfort at My Lodge Naoshima, an ideal base for exploring the art-laden island while enjoying local cuisine and free parking.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit the iconic Yellow Pumpkin and Red Pumpkin sculptures, as well as the Naoshima Public Bath I Love Yu. I'm also hoping to do some shopping at the Art Island Center. Another day of art and exploration awaits, and I can't wait to see what Naoshima has in store.

Before heading back to my room, I checked my list of Trip Essentials. Camera, notebook, reusable water bottle, portable phone charger, comfortable walking shoes, and travel guidebook – all present and accounted for. However, I did make a mental note to pick up sunscreen and a hat tomorrow. The sun here, even in March, can be deceptively strong.

Good night from Naoshima! I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.